3020 compatability with 3010

Tstoner

Member
I have a 63 3010 diesel that I am pulling in this winter to overhaul the engine. I plan on splitting it to do so. I was on a local online sale and found the rear end of a 3020 complete all the way up to the bell housing for a good price, and I got to wondering if the 3020 would bolt up to my 3010? My tractor is in good shape, I was just curious because obviously there are plenty of benefits to be had with the 3020
 
I put a 3020 motor in another 3010 this summer. Minor issues to be dealt with but mostly some fuel line routing if I remember. Wasn't anything serious had it running same day the motor went in. Should work fine.
 
In your guys opinions, without knowing anything about the rear end of the 3020 would it be worth the hassle to try to bolt up to my 3010?
 
I have a 3010 diesel that I did just that years ago. Mine had bad pto and broken tooth on 5th gear. Had to get some fittings to adapt metal hydraulic lines because 3010 lines where smaller. Also look at input shaft and clutch hub, some have different size splines. Also I had to get a 3020 drawbar the mounting pin where you adjust length is bigger on 3020 than a 3010 pin. Engine and transmission bolted right up.
 
You gain a better pto set up and maybe larger hyd lines to the remotes.Other then that I'm not sure you gain much. Might be more fun to find the front end and engine out of another and bolt up. Depending on what your goals are.
 
I did this 3 or 4 years ago it’s worth it if yours is not in the best shape just doing it for fun probably not. Mine had a trashed transmission case. The 3020 had diff lock I added a fitting to the brakes for it
 
I did this 3 or 4 years ago it’s worth it if yours is not in the best shape just doing it for fun probably not. Mine had a trashed transmission case. The 3020 had diff lock I added a fitting to the brakes for it
My 3010 overall is in good shape. I use it as my hay tractor and I constantly worry about the pto issue they have. Also using it last year I started to have issues with the reverse gears on it. They are there but hard to engage somtimes. Me not knowing enough about the synchros or how to work on them, I wouldn't know the first thing on what to look for to fix. And the dealer wanted too much money to tear it down to diagnose. I came across this 3020 and was kicking the idea around
 
I have 3 3010s I use for haying. Only had a pto issue once but it wasn't the pin everyone is concerned with. Teeth on the counter gear came off. As long as you have the pto stub shaft tight and aren't swapping back and forth from 540 to 1000 you are probably fine. Your reverse might just be play in the shift linkages. On one of mine it was hard to find reverse. I think I stuck a cotter pin to take out the slack in the hole and has been fine.
 
We have had a 4010 since new and the only time the pin broke was switching over from 1000 to 540 and rushed through failing to fully tighten the stub bolts. The tractor ran a 2 row forage harvester and 347 wire baler so it got worked. I have always maintained that straight and well lubricated PTO sliding assemblies are the best defense against a broken PTO. Other brands have had the tractor PTO stub broken as well. If you need a blacksmith hammer to get the PTO hooked up to the tractor then it is time to service and repair the implement PTO shaft.
 
I have 3 3010s I use for haying. Only had a pto issue once but it wasn't the pin everyone is concerned with. Teeth on the counter gear came off. As long as you have the pto stub shaft tight and aren't swapping back and forth from 540 to 1000 you are probably fine. Your reverse might just be play in the shift linkages. On one of mine it was hard to find reverse. I think I stuck a cotter pin to take out the slack in the hole and has been fine.
Unfortunately I already adjusted the linkages.
 
I have a very good 3020 clutch housing back to the axles good shifting sychro range here for sale in Central Ohio $1500
 
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