3020 John Deere clutch free play problem

[mr6931]

I just replaced the clutch pack in my 3020. John Deere assembled the flywheel and clutch pack and adjusted the clutch. After reassembling the tractor I have about 5" of freeplay and the traction clutch won't completely disengage. I have adjusted all the free play I could on the pedal. Any ideas as to where to go next would be greatly appreciated.

 

[rockcreek4630]

You didn't happen to leave the collar off
that goes behind the throw out bearing.

 

[wore out]

(quoted from post at 08:49:32 03/16/22) I just replaced the clutch pack in my 3020. John Deere assembled the flywheel and clutch pack and adjusted the clutch. After reassembling the tractor I have about 5" of freeplay and the traction clutch won't completely disengage. I have adjusted all the free play I could on the pedal. Any ideas as to where to go next would be greatly appreciated.

Did you check the "clutch finger height" after bolting down the pressure plate?

That could well be your issue.

Also, did you verify the "step" depth in the flywheel, if the flywheel "face" has been resurfaced and the "rim" hasn't been machined accordingly the clutch "finger height" on a pre-set plate would be low.

A good automotive machine shop would know this and have the correct "depth" measurement at hand.

 

[mr6931]

(reply to post at 10:49:54 I didn't change the throw-out bearing. Everything looked good in the in-put shaft side, so I didn't even change the in-put shaft seal.

 

[mr6931]

I had the flywheel turned and they turned the face and the edge about .002, I then took the flywheel to John Deere and they assembled and adjusted the clutch on the flywheel. All I did was unbolt the pressure plate to facilitate mounting the flywheel and then replace the clutch/pressure plate pack. There should not have been any finger adjustments needed would there?

 

[Tx Jim]

It's possible one of the 3 finger operating bolts broke. Remove inspection cover on the bottom of clutch housing for a visual inspection.

 

[tomstractorsandtoys]

Did you torque the bolts or just tighten them? If you just tightened them you have the fingers out of adjustment. Tom

 

[tim s]

It's not unusual to have to re-adjust the fingers out towards the release bearing,,farther than the specified setting, go in through the bottom cover and loosen the jam nuts and adjust the finger out till the just touch the release bearing and re-tighten the jam nuts..

 

[mr6931]

This sounds like a possible cure. I thought once the clutch had been adjusted to the adjustment tool specifications, no further adjustments were needed. If I moved the release fingers closer to the release bearing that would result in less free play correct?

 

[Glen D Anderson]

That's correct & it is a rule of thumb you can apply to most any clutch configuration.

(quoted from post at 03:52:24 03/17/22) This sounds like a possible cure. I thought once the clutch had been adjusted to the adjustment tool specifications, no further adjustments were needed. If I moved the release fingers closer to the release bearing that would result in less free play correct?

 

[wore out]

(quoted from post at 03:52:24 03/17/22) This sounds like a possible cure. I thought once the clutch had been adjusted to the adjustment tool specifications, no further adjustments were needed. If I moved the release fingers closer to the release bearing that would result in less free play correct?

SOMETHING is out "out of spec."/not where it should be, I would get to the bottom of what's wrong and NOT try to "fudge" a "fix".

I wouldn't consider "adjusting" the fingers with the clutch installed because you will never get them set as accurately/evenly as you do with the the clutch exposed and using a gauge.

And if you want smooth clutch operation and longevity the fingers MUST be set evenly.

 

[fdt860]

(quoted from post at 08:41:13 03/17/22)

(quoted from post at 03:52:24 03/17/22) This sounds like a possible cure. I thought once the clutch had been adjusted to the adjustment tool specifications, no further adjustments were needed. If I moved the release fingers closer to the release bearing that would result in less free play correct?

SOMETHING is out "out of spec."/not where it should be, I would get to the bottom of what's wrong and NOT try to "fudge" a "fix".

I wouldn't consider "adjusting" the fingers with the clutch installed because you will never get them set as accurately/evenly as you do with the the clutch exposed and using a gauge.

And if you want smooth clutch operation and longevity the fingers MUST be set evenly.

You can adjust them very good from the bottom.
You put the pedal adjustment in middle position, then using a gauge you set the three fingers until they touches the bearing, then you back off pedal
adjustment to get free play.

 

[WTW]

Its your tractor and you can do what you want but, If the fingers were adjusted
with the correct service tool and now you have too much free travel, problem is
most likely is caused by one of three things. Spacer behind throw out was left
off. Or the actuating tube has spun and went deeper into the actuating collar. Or
the clutch shafts have been removed and actuating collar got flipped over as it is
stepped one way and will allow actuating tube to go to deep / too far towards
rear of tractor resulting in too much distance between TB and fingers. Not to pi$$
on anybody's parade but modifying the finger height to cover up the actual problem
is not what I would recommend.

 

[mr6931]

I agree with your assessment of the problem.If I am going to take the trouble to break the tractor and install a new clutch, most of that time and money is wasted without fixing all the problems. I think there are several problems, beginning with the clutch being replaced previously, and not being adjusted properly causing,slipping, unusual wear and no free play at all. After disassembly, I could see no reason not to install new parts and put the tractor back to OEM standards. Upon inspection of the input shaft side of the rear housing, I determined everything from the T/B back looked good. Upon reassembly the clutch worked normally 3-4 times, then it felt like a slip occurred and all the free play came into play. So, the actuating tube slipping seems to be the best guess. My question is, do I have to split the tractor between the transmission and T/B housing to replace the actuating tube? Can the T/B's be removed from the motor side of the input shaft housing?

 

[WTW]

The throw out tube can be removed with just a single split but if tube spun in the
actuating collar that the clutch fork attaches to, both clutch shafts
(transmission and PTO) have to removed, which means a split between clutch housing
and transmission case. Before you take anything apart remove bottom clutch cover
and look to the very rear where you can see the foot clutch fork and yoke and see
if you can tell if tube and the yoke collar look odd. I have seen the yoke get
tipped over and tube is not pressed fit square into yoke collar??

 

[mr6931]

Thanks to everyone for all the helpful information, I will post what I find as soon as I have time to work on this again.