3020 p/s with 329 engine

I finished up my winters project of pulling a stuck 3020 gas engine n replacing it with a 329 diesel. Thought I would toss this out to anyone interested. I tried to use as much over the counter/ salvage yard parts as possible, with very few (custom) made parts. It took very little fab work. I used a 4030 complete engine I had bought with hyd. pump and frame rails. I used the the 3020 hyd. pump, but 4030 mount. I used a JD 570A road grader flywheel, disc and pressure plate. I found a bearing with the correct ID and OD for the pilot. The fly wheel did need 250 grand taken off of the front side of it to clear the rear engine plate. (I used my flywheel grinder, but a large lathe will work also.) The 3020 radiator works, but needs to be raised 1/4 inch (I used flat stock between the frame rail and rubber shim under the radiator. ) Stock 3020 fan blade 4030 water pump. The fan blade was to close to the radiator so I removed the pulley and removed the shoulder from the back side, 600 grand and faced off 250 from the fan side. I pressed the pulley on 250 more than stock. This allowed the fan to move back enough to work perfect. I used the rear pulley on the crank for the fan belt, it was used for a|c on the 4030. This also makes the water pump spin a fuzz faster than stock. I thought this would make up for any under sizing of the 3020 radiator. Only real fab work was frame rails and throttle linkage. I used the hyd. pump coupler as a reference point and marked the rails with a square on both the 3020 and 4030 while bolted up. I cut the rails on a band saw and wire welded the back together. 4030 rear, 3020 front. This saved any drilling or tapping holes. you gain 11.5 inches total. Gas 3020 has the carb on the left. 4030 has the injection pump on the left. Throttle linkage hasn't hard to do. Choke cable was now pump shut off. You can use steering and hyd lines from a 4020 they will work. I just extended mine. A 4020 is 12.5 inches longer than a 3020 so the lines will give enough to work well. I extended the hood of the 3020, but you could cut 1 inch off a 4010 or 4020 hood. Either way you to do need to relocate the exhaust hole. This wasn't a hard job to do, just time consuming.
We haven't been able to use this tractor much yet this spring, but have done light work with it. So far we like it. Lighter than our 4020s, but does feel good. Al Baker (pumpman)
 
I did forget to post that I swapped out the gas air cleaner with a 3010 diesel one. I just used some exhaust tubing to connect the air cleaner to the intake. I do think an intake from a combine would be easier to use, but I was to cheap to swap out with The 4030 I had. They are just plumbed different. I have talked to a couple of guys who used rubber flex tubing. The alternator bracket did get moved back 1 inch also to line up with the fan belt. Al
 
Guy down the road does it with the 4.5 liter 4 cylinder engine JD diesel engine. Has done a few and then seen he did what you did also, he didn't have the hood done yet.
 
I finished up my winters project of pulling a stuck 3020 gas engine n replacing it with a 329 diesel. Thought I would toss this out to anyone interested. I tried to use as much over the counter/ salvage yard parts as possible, with very few (custom) made parts. It took very little fab work. I used a 4030 complete engine I had bought with hyd. pump and frame rails. I used the the 3020 hyd. pump, but 4030 mount. I used a JD 570A road grader flywheel, disc and pressure plate. I found a bearing with the correct ID and OD for the pilot. The fly wheel did need 250 grand taken off of the front side of it to clear the rear engine plate. (I used my flywheel grinder, but a large lathe will work also.) The 3020 radiator works, but needs to be raised 1/4 inch (I used flat stock between the frame rail and rubber shim under the radiator. ) Stock 3020 fan blade 4030 water pump. The fan blade was to close to the radiator so I removed the pulley and removed the shoulder from the back side, 600 grand and faced off 250 from the fan side. I pressed the pulley on 250 more than stock. This allowed the fan to move back enough to work perfect. I used the rear pulley on the crank for the fan belt, it was used for a|c on the 4030. This also makes the water pump spin a fuzz faster than stock. I thought this would make up for any under sizing of the 3020 radiator. Only real fab work was frame rails and throttle linkage. I used the hyd. pump coupler as a reference point and marked the rails with a square on both the 3020 and 4030 while bolted up. I cut the rails on a band saw and wire welded the back together. 4030 rear, 3020 front. This saved any drilling or tapping holes. you gain 11.5 inches total. Gas 3020 has the carb on the left. 4030 has the injection pump on the left. Throttle linkage hasn't hard to do. Choke cable was now pump shut off. You can use steering and hyd lines from a 4020 they will work. I just extended mine. A 4020 is 12.5 inches longer than a 3020 so the lines will give enough to work well. I extended the hood of the 3020, but you could cut 1 inch off a 4010 or 4020 hood. Either way you to do need to relocate the exhaust hole. This wasn't a hard job to do, just time consuming.
We haven't been able to use this tractor much yet this spring, but have done light work with it. So far we like it. Lighter than our 4020s, but does feel good. Al Baker (pumpman)
You will enjoy this I know because I do enjoy mine done very similar
 
So it wouldn't be hard to put one of these in a 4010 gas then?
I am sure a 4010\4020 would take less work than doing a 3020 like I did. I am not sure what it takes to do a syncro trans tractor. The one I did was a power shift. I know Ron C. replied to my post. He has done a syncro 3020. You could message him on what to do about the flywheel and clutch set up. Everything else to make a 329 work I have done, and done without a big hassle. Hardest part was learning what will bolt up to what. I am sure if a guy spent some time looking at the JD parts book online there is an industrial application of a 300 series engine with a standard trans with the starter on the left side. It took me a few hours to figure out a 570A road grader had a 329 engine with a power shift trans. Flywheel and pressure plate bolted right up. Mother Deere built a ton of equipment over the years, just takes some leg work to figure out what you need. Gas to 329 is easy because the throttle linkage is already on the correct side. A 4010/4020 have long enough hyd. lines from the dash to the front.
 
I am sure a 4010\4020 would take less work than doing a 3020 like I did. I am not sure what it takes to do a syncro trans tractor. The one I did was a power shift. I know Ron C. replied to my post. He has done a syncro 3020. You could message him on what to do about the flywheel and clutch set up. Everything else to make a 329 work I have done, and done without a big hassle. Hardest part was learning what will bolt up to what. I am sure if a guy spent some time looking at the JD parts book online there is an industrial application of a 300 series engine with a standard trans with the starter on the left side. It took me a few hours to figure out a 570A road grader had a 329 engine with a power shift trans. Flywheel and pressure plate bolted right up. Mother Deere built a ton of equipment over the years, just takes some leg work to figure out what you need. Gas to 329 is easy because the throttle linkage is already on the correct side. A 4010/4020 have long enough hyd. lines from the dash to the front.
A kit used to be made to put a 414 in a 4020 .They also made the kit to put 4045’s in 2510/2520’s. The name of the outfit was tjr repair in Wisconsin or Minnesota.
 
I knew there was a kit to install a 4 cyl 4039 or optional 4045 300 series engine in 3010/3020 but was unaware of a kit to install 414 cid engine in 4020. 2510/2520 didn't require a kit due to coming from factory with a 300 series 4 cylinder engine(202 cid & 219 cid).
 

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