3020 starting issue.

[ghuds]

Hi everyone. Having a problem with my 64 3020D.
It?s been working fine until a couple mornings ago. I
went to start it and it turned over real slow for about
10 seconds, then quit. Now when I hit the starter
button - nothing. It?s always started fine.
The batteries are fully charged, the wires and
connections are all good and battery cables are
tight. I bypassed the starter switch and get a small
spark when touching the wires, but still nothing. I
don?t know much about the 24 volt system, but what
should I start with as far as figuring out what?s going
on? Any advice would be very helpful.

 

[David G]

Get a meter, put across each battery, easy and most probable place to start.

 

[ghuds]

Sorry, not sure what you mean. Check voltage, continuity? I checked the voltage of each battery (12.7) and load tested them - they were fine.

 

[ArnieinChesterfieldVa]

After checking easy items out maybe it would be worth popping the starter off and having it tested. Might be time for a rebuild?
Arnie

 

[Tx Jim]

(quoted from post at 08:46:03 03/24/20) Sorry, not sure what you mean. Check voltage, continuity? I checked the voltage of each battery (12.7) and load tested them - they were fine.

I suggest to remove yellow wire from solenoid post marked by an "S" then turn key to ign position while checking voltage on yellow wire.

 

[tomstractorsandtoys]

Check your cables real well as they can be bad under the coating. After that pull the starter and take to a shop. Get an estimate from them as you might want to consider changing it over to 12 volts. I farm with 5 3020-4020's that were all 24 volt and have changed them all to 12 volt along with 20 or more other tractors. The 12 volt tractors are simpler and almost trouble free compared to the 24 volt. Not hard to change over. Tom

 

[Bob]

Connect black lead from digital voltmeter to chassis ground.

While a helper tries to start it, measure the voltage on the large solenoid terminal (where the (-) battery cable connects), the terminal stud on the engine block side of the starter "belly" (where the (+) battery connects, and the small terminal on the starter solenoid where the yellow wire from the neutral safety start switch and report back.

You can also measure the voltage BETWEEN the large solenoid terminal (where the (-) battery cable connects), and the terminal stud on the engine block side of the starter "belly". (Will be the same as the first two voltage measurements added together.)

 

[ghuds]

Thanks for the info everyone. I put the starter in about two years ago. It was used when I bought it but it?s been working great for two years. I?ll pull it out and see if I can have it tested. Again thanks.

 

[Bob]

(quoted from post at 12:04:37 03/24/20) Thanks for the info everyone. I put the starter in about two years ago. It was used when I bought it but it?s been working great for two years. I?ll pull it out and see if I can have it tested. Again thanks.

WHY not make the simple voltage tests I suggested BEFORE removing the starter?

They will either prove that the starter is "bad" or that there's another issue, which would save all the details of R+R-ing this 24 Volt unit.

Which leads to another point... Unless you have a VERY good local auto electric shop they will NOT be equipped to fully test a 24 Volt isolated ground starter.

 

[old]

If the solenoid has the 2 big posts what happens if you short across them wit ha heavy wire like a battery cable. If it turns over good chance you have a bad solenoid or bad wire some place. If it does not turn over and you have little to no spark bad connection of bad starter

 

[ghuds]

I removed the yellow wire ad I?m getting 12.5 volts
while pushing the starter button.

 

[Tx Jim]

(quoted from post at 12:29:21 03/24/20) I removed the yellow wire ad I?m getting 12.5 volts
while pushing the starter button.

Now reattach the yellow wire & perform same voltage test.

 

[ghuds]

I?m getting 12.5 volts at the large terminal on the belly of the starter. 12.5 volts from the other large terminal to the yellow wire when pushing the starter button. 24.9 volts between the two large terminals.
I suspect the solenoid or starter is bad.

 

[Bob]

(quoted from post at 12:49:50 03/24/20) I?m getting 12.5 volts at the large terminal on the belly of the starter. 12.5 volts from the other large terminal to the yellow wire when pushing the starter button. 24.9 volts between the two large terminals.
I suspect the solenoid or starter is bad.

Check the voltage BETWEEN the two small studs on the solenoid while trying to start it.

Should be the full 25 Volts there and the solenoid should pull in.

 

[ghuds]

I pulled everything away from the starter (cab parts and side panel). I tapped on the starter and solenoid with a hammer and it briefly tried to turn. It didn?t sound right. I?ll pull the starter and take it to the shop. It?s not real easy with the loader on it, but I?ve done it before. Thanks!

 

[ghuds]

Update:
I pulled the starter and took it to a shop. They tore it down while I was there and said it was shot. It needed an armature and a couple other things. He said it also showed signs of low voltage, which was true. I had to keep the batteries in a trickle charger because I didn?t think the generator was charging. He recommended converting it to 12v, saying it was cheaper, and a better system. Long story short, I ordered a conversion kit and just finished installing it...mostly.
Everything went fine except for the charging lines from the alternator. The tractor has a push button starter and there?s no evidence of a keyed ignition. I connected every according to the instructions, but I?m not sure how the batteries are supposed to charge. The kit said to combine the brown and blue wires from the generator to the alternator, and eliminate the regulator as well as the two fuses mounted to the old starter. I followed the instructions, but it seems like I need a wire going from the alternator to the batteries, is this correct?
I now have power to a switch that I assume controls the 12v side of the old system (which I never had power to before). Sorry about the long post, I just need this thing up and running correctly again.
It starts great, runs and everything works but the charging system.