310 Case dozer

[gregjo1948]

Just purchased this 310 Case dozer. Going to need parts. Where is the serial number located? Need to remove transmission to repair. Will need new axle nuts as will need to torch old ones off. First gear is bound up and can't use it. Reverse gear has very loud whine but does work. Where can I get parts? I'm near Ithaca, NY.

 

[tomtinker]

Serial numbers were on the front of a battery box on a plate that was Easley knocked off.

 

[gregjo1948]

Serial numbers were on the front of a battery box on a plate that was Easley knocked off.

Thanks--guess mine has been knocked off. I was told it's a 1961 model. It's a 310 but what would be the following letter? 310?

 

[tomtinker]

Not sure about the 310 but some of the case dozers had serial numbers stamped on top of the frame up near the radiator.

 

[urbancase]

I had one many years ago, reverse went out and the gear wore in the the shaft, I was able to get a new gear and I made a new shaft. If I remember right that gear is the last thing the come out of the transmission. Good luck

 

[gregjo1948]

Not sure about the 310 but some of the case dozers had serial numbers stamped on top of the frame up near the radiator.

Thanks--I'll look there.

 

[gregjo1948]

Not sure about the 310 but some of the case dozers had serial numbers stamped on top of the frame up near the radiator.

 

[gregjo1948]

I had one many years ago, reverse went out and the gear wore in the shaft, I was able to get a new gear and I made a new shaft. If I remember right that gear is the last thing the come out of the transmission. Good luck

The problem I have first is getting the tranny out of the machine. I need to remove the tracks and sprockets, then the outer housings and axles. I've found the master pins in the tracks but haven't figured how to remove them. I've got a 3 1/2" impact socket coming to remove the sprocket nuts.

 

[urbancase]

Greg: been a long time when I did mine. I split the tracks, jacked up the back and took the transmission and rear end out on one piece. At the time I didn’t have my bridge crane but I had a jib crane and hooked that to the rear end and another chain hoist to the transmission and lowered them and kind of rotated to get out. Then you can get it some place that it easy to work on. There might be someone on here the done it different but that what I done. Also at the same time had broken bolts on the side that got drilled out and replaced. Good luck post if you need help and I will try if I can. But been close to 30 years since I did it.

 

[gregjo1948]

Greg: been a long time when I did mine. I split the tracks, jacked up the back and took the transmission and rear end out on one piece. At the time I didn’t have my bridge crane but I had a jib crane and hooked that to the rear end and another chain hoist to the transmission and lowered them and kind of rotated to get out. Then you can get it some place that it easy to work on. There might be someone on here the done it different but that what I done. Also at the same time had broken bolts on the side that got drilled out and replaced. Good luck post if you need help and I will try if I can. But been close to 30 years since I did it.

Thanks--I think I want to detach the entire rear end with the diff. and tranny attached. I have the machine located under an I-beam running perpendicular to it, with two chain falls. I also have a 1715 Ford tractor with a front loader to lift with. My plan is like what you did. My problem right now is removing the master pins in the tracks. I've done it with a few small, older, John Deere dozers, but the master pins were different. The pins in this Case are pressed in and have a hole in the middle. I'm thinking, I need to heat them and put a punch/drift in the hole and drive them out. I'm open to any suggestions you might have. thanks, Greg

 

[urbancase]

Greg what I did to push pins out was take a heavy pc of channel and if you have a 10 ton ram make a anchor block for the ram to sit against the measure for that to go under the track and 2 heavy block for the other side of track and leave center open for pin to push through, I did use heat when I did it. Soak the pin with PB blaster for days in advance does help some. Be careful some times that can release quick with a lot of pressure.

 

[tomtinker]

If you ever get it fixed, be sure to put the correct oil in the transmission or it will foul up the steering brake bands

 

[gregjo1948]

If you ever get it fixed, be sure to put the correct oil in the transmission or it will foul up the steering brake bands

If you ever get it fixed, be sure to put the correct oil in the transmission or it will foul up the steering brake bands

Do you remember what weight oil it takes?

 

[tomtinker]

It's like 90w or so , but it's called mineral oil, maybe gl-1,or 2,or 3 , I don't recall exactly witch one.

 

[WilBury]

Congrats on your new money pit!
Mine is a '61 310E loader. I've had every nut and bolt out and in as well as some modifications. If you're really going to get into it, I strongly recommend you pick up the shop manual and parts book. Could save you a lot of time and grief. Worth every penny.
Parts are available, but be wary of anything new aftermarket. More than 50% of all machined parts I've bought in the last 20 years have been incorrectly machined so you have to double-check everything.
Blocking is your friend. Start accumulating 4x and 6x blocking for supporting the heavy stuff. You can support the whole dozer on the center torque tube but must support the ends too for balance. I sawed vees into 6x6's for the torque tube.
Here's a link to the Casece parts pages. Once you nail down your model I'd download or somehow save the webpages. No idea how long Case is going to host the catalogue.
https://www.mycnhstore.com/ca/en/ca...56875BD6/8ACD6496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6

80W90 Straight Mineral Gear oil (GL-1) for trans/diff as well as final drives, due to the brass and wet brakes. No brass in the finals but possibility of cross-contamination.
Any questions, I'll try to monitor and assist if I can.

 

[WilBury]

Best to detach the whole rear end like you say. Unbolt finals from the side plates and the axles from the frame. Whole thing rolls out. Should crack those sprocket nuts first.
I made a track pin push/puller but have also done it with a large punch and sledgehammer. You're looking at perhaps 30 tons pressure so caution is advised. Gives me chills thinking about getting fingers caught in a moving track. Careful!
Used parts, though worn, are likely as good as new aftermarket.
Pics, if you can manage are worth a thousand words...

 

[gregjo1948]

Congrats on your new money pit!
Mine is a '61 310E loader. I've had every nut and bolt out and in as well as some modifications. If you're really going to get into it, I strongly recommend you pick up the shop manual and parts book. Could save you a lot of time and grief. Worth every penny.
Parts are availab

Best to detach the whole rear end like you say. Unbolt finals from the side plates and the axles from the frame. Whole thing rolls out. Should crack those sprocket nuts first.
I made a track pin push/puller but have also done it with a large punch and sledgehammer. You're looking at perhaps 30 tons pressure so caution is advised. Gives me chills thinking about getting fingers caught in a moving track. Careful!
Used parts, though worn, are likely as good as new aftermarket.
Pics, if you can manage are worth a thousand words...

Best to detach the whole rear end like you say. Unbolt finals from the side plates and the axles from the frame. Whole thing rolls out. Should crack those sprocket nuts first.
I made a track pin push/puller but have also done it with a large punch and sledgehammer. You're looking at perhaps 30 tons pressure so caution is advised. Gives me chills thinking about getting fingers caught in a moving track. Careful!
Used parts, though worn, are likely as good as new aftermarket.
Pics, if you can manage are worth a thousand words...

le, but be wary of anything new aftermarket. More than 50% of all machined parts I've bought in the last 20 years have been incorrectly machined so you have to double-check everything.
Blocking is your friend. Start accumulating 4x and 6x blocking for supporting the heavy stuff. You can support the whole dozer on the center torque tube but must support the ends too for balance. I sawed vees into 6x6's for the torque tube.
Here's a link to the Casece parts pages. Once you nail down your model I'd download or somehow save the webpages. No idea how long Case is going to host the catalogue.
https://www.mycnhstore.com/ca/en/ca...56875BD6/8ACD6496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6

80W90 Straight Mineral Gear oil (GL-1) for trans/diff as well as final drives, due to the brass and wet brakes. No brass in the finals but possibility of cross-contamination.
Any questions, I'll try to monitor and assist if I can.

Thanks for all the info. Any idea the quantity of 80W90 needed? I've never seen master pins in dozer tracks like these. Both ends look like the rest of the track pins except the master pins have a 3/8" hole in both ends. Not sure yet if the hole goes all the way thru from end to end. Appears that the pins are pressed in.

 

[WilBury]

7 liters I believe, filled at front of tranny, self levels with the diff. Finals take a 2 1/2 pints each.
The holes in the pins are probably blind and are just for a lineup nipple on your punch.
I've had my old tracks derail several times and I'm wondering if you couldn't remove the tracks without splitting. You likely have to remove the spring housing and maybe even some rollers but I bet you could get them off if you're patient and careful. Especially with your hoist and loader available. Tricky tho.

 

[WilBury]

Another note, depending on the vintage, the 3 bolts from the finals to the side plates are either 5/8 or upgraded to 3/4. The tops and bottoms are supposed to be "body fit" like dowels to prevent movement. If yours are rotten or loose, when you're satisfied with the positioning, there are good spots on the top and bottom edges where you can stitch welds to solidify them to the side plates. Probably a good idea to matchmark them before you take the bolts out unless they're already loose.

 

[gregjo1948]

7 liters I believe, filled at front of tranny, self levels with the diff. Finals take a 2 1/2 pints each.
The holes in the pins are probably blind and are just for a lineup nipple on your punch.
I've had my old tracks derail several times and I'm wondering if you couldn't remove the tracks without splitting. You likely have to remove the spring housing and maybe even some rollers but I bet you could get them off if you're patient and careful. Especially with your hoist and loader available. Tricky tho.

The chains are presently a little tighter than I like. I'm soaking the tensioner threads to see if I can loosen the tracks a bit. It would be difficult to get them off without removing the master pin, especially in the shop. If I did get them off, I'd play hell getting them back on. When I get the sprocket nuts loose, I think it'll be relatively easy to get the repairs done. Not too sure what the damage will amount to inside the tranny, but I'm hoping to find the parts needed to fix it. Do you know if the 310 rubber tire tractors use the same transmissions? Thanks, Greg