310 Case dozer

[gregjo1948]

Another note, depending on the vintage, the 3 bolts from the finals to the side plates are either 5/8 or upgraded to 3/4. The tops and bottoms are supposed to be "body fit" like dowels to prevent movement. If yours are rotten or loose, when you're satisfied with the positioning, there are good spots on the top and bottom edges where you can stitch welds to solidify them to the side plates. Probably a good idea to matchmark them before you take the bolts out unless they're already loose.

Haven't really checked them yet but, they look tight. I'll be sure to put it back properly and probably give it a quick weld for insurance.

 

[urbancase]

Greg if your are removing tracks my left side threads were striped. I removed the tension assembly and replaced the tension rod with one inch fine thread 8 grade all thread. I think I ordered it from McMaster Carr, also made a spaner nut that went over the thread rod to adj tension. I still got that somewhere in the shop. I also had a broke spring that I replaced. Good luck

 

[WilBury]

Haven't really checked them yet but, they look tight. I'll be sure to put it back properly and probably give it a quick weld for insurance.

Yep, perfect spot for it, easy to grind off again if needed.

 

[WilBury]

Greg if your are removing tracks my left side threads were striped. I removed the tension assembly and replaced the tension rod with one inch fine thread 8 grade all thread. I think I ordered it from McMaster Carr, also made a spaner nut that went over the thread rod to adj tension. I still got that somewhere in the shop. I also had a broke spring that I replaced. Good luck

I used 1" course thread myself (original for the other hardware on it) and a 115# track (railroad) nut for the back end.

 

[WilBury]

There's only a few places those "body fit bolts" are used. Finals to side plates(top & bottom), torque tube to side plates (front and rear), engine to bell housing (lowers), engine to front mounting bracket (at least two), and 8 o'clock 12 o'clock and 4 o'clock outer to inner final housings. Those lineup holes on the finals are 1/2" while the rest are for 7/16" bolts. Handy for alignment with rods or bolts when you're trying to put it together.

 

[WilBury]

The chains are presently a little tighter than I like. I'm soaking the tensioner threads to see if I can loosen the tracks a bit. It would be difficult to get them off without removing the master pin, especially in the shop. If I did get them off, I'd play hell getting them back on. When I get the sprocket nuts loose, I think it'll be relatively easy to get the repairs done. Not too sure what the damage will amount to inside the tranny, but I'm hoping to find the parts needed to fix it. Do you know if the 310 rubber tire tractors use the same transmissions? Thanks, Greg

No, tractors are different, but all the Case 300-350 series crawlers use it. I believe the Oliver OC-3 & OC-4 use the same Clark trans/diff but with different brake drums, bands & linkage.
Wildcat Willy on utube has chronicled his total refurb of a 310G and is still putting out vids of the tranny rebuild. I don't agree with everything he does, but he gets 'er done.
You know, there is access to the transmission gears thru the shifter housing. That's where you work thru on the bench too but kinda hard to access while still on the machine. You'd have to do it by feel almost but watching those vids will show you how.

 

[WilBury]

Just purchased this 310 Case dozer. Going to need parts. Where is the serial number located? Need to remove transmission to repair. Will need new axle nuts as will need to torch old ones off. First gear is bound up and can't use it. Reverse gear has very loud whine but does work. Where can I get parts? I'm near Ithaca, NY.

New axle nuts are available online, I bought the washers too. Your shifting problem just might have to do with the shift forks mechanism bolted to the side of the tranny. Could just be a simple fix. Start there before you dismantle the whole thing?

 

[tomtinker]

Would it may be that the floppy reverse idler gear has chewed up that spacer and let the gears move out of place? I was referring to that delicate little spacer about 2 inches long and about 1/8 inches thick that usually gets chewed up when the reverse idler gear gets to flopping around.

 

[WilBury]

One way to find out. The more I think about it, shifter fork problems are not all that rare. Those trannies chewing themselves up is.

 

[WilBury]

"The chains are presently a little tighter than I like."

Couldn't figure out why I was having such a hard time pushing the crawler with a good sized hoe once. Tracks were so tight from temp change we darn near bent the frame...

 

[WilBury]

I'm in southern BC. If you're anywhere close, I have maybe a few hundred pounds of usable parts I can give you as well as a some with a little value for sale.
You might have the very same machine as I but with the dozer on it.. Diesel and leaf spring suspension? If it has truss rods on the cylinders, it's a D or maybe an early E. '61 says E.
I fabricated new side plates and rear track frame brackets to do away with the worn pivots and leaf springs. 310G's and up were rigid anyway.

 

[gregjo1948]

I'm in southern BC. If you're anywhere close, I have maybe a few hundred pounds of usable parts I can give you as well as a some with a little value for sale.
You might have the very same machine as I but with the dozer on it.. Diesel and leaf spring suspension? If it has truss rods on the cylinders, it's a D or maybe an early E. '61 says E.
I fabricated new side plates and rear track frame brackets to do away with the worn pivots and leaf springs. 310G's and up were rigid anyway.

Not too close--near Ithaca, NY, USA

 

[gregjo1948]

Best to detach the whole rear end like you say. Unbolt finals from the side plates and the axles from the frame. Whole thing rolls out. Should crack those sprocket nuts first.
I made a track pin push/puller but have also done it with a large punch and sledgehammer. You're looking at perhaps 30 tons pressure so caution is advised. Gives me chills thinking about getting fingers caught in a moving track. Careful!
Used parts, though worn, are likely as good as new aftermarket.
Pics, if you can manage are worth a thousand words...

Trying to remove track master pin has been troublesome. Heated up, inserted a punch into the hole in the end of the master pin and waled it with a 10 lb. sledge. On the 3rd swing, I was off a bit on my aim and the punch came at me with great velocity. Hit me dead center on my upper lip and knock me around and down onto the dozer track. Nearly knocked me out but didn't. Saw some stars and when I got my senses back check for broken teeth and/or torn lip. Got lucky, I guess, nothing broken or even bleeding. Very bad headache and a huge blood blister on the inside of the upper lip. Been about 7 hours now and still have a headache but, tomorrow I'm going to cut the damn pin out with the torch. I've taken a few tracks apart before on small John Deere dozers but never had so much trouble getting the master pin out. After I get this pin out, I need to remove the pin on the other track too. I tried using a portable press to push it out, but it was only a 6-ton press and didn't even budge it. Would appreciate it if you could tell me where I can buy new master pins for it. I think it's a 1961 or 1962 310E. Thanks, Greg PS---It's OK if you laugh at this story as it probably would have been fun watching.

 

[WilBury]

That's no laughing matter. Heavy punches on a long, perhaps soft-jointed sledge handle held by one person and a heavy sledge wielded by another with everyone wearing PPE and face shields will do it with risk of spreading track links unless backed up.
Here's a pic of my pin pusher. Used 1" fine thread Grade 7 draw rods generously lubed. The short push pin used against the master must be smaller diameter and hard stuff or it will mushroom and stick in the bore.

 

[WilBury]

You should probably try to identify the track you have on there. There might be numbers on the links. If it's original, you can likely get pins from Case. You should be able to get pins from any decent undercarriage supplier if you can give them enough info. My aftermarket track has no master, pick any pin. I wasn't joking about maybe 30 tons to press them out. If I hadn't used antisieze I would have galled those 1" rods.
Get that shop manual if you can.

 

[case310]

I know this discussion is older now but I will post for future reference how I got pins out as I just did this

My friend is a mechanic and he brought over his Snap-on BJP1 ball joint press
and we also use my Milwaukee m18 high torque impact with a socket to tighten the press
as tight as it would go

We then heated the chains around the pins until a snap noise occurred and then ran the torque impact again and the pins came out.......... .... the key is to use a lot of heat (acetylene torch)

I replaced the old tracks with a better set of tracks that were to long,
they needed to be shortened by several pads / links for my old 310c

the snap-on press was even able to remove the main track pins as well,
it is an impressive and very strong tool!

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Trying to remove track master pin has been troublesome. Heated up, inserted a punch into the hole in the end of the master pin and waled it with a 10 lb. sledge. On the 3rd swing, I was off a bit on my aim and the punch came at me with great velocity. Hit me dead center on my upper lip and knock me around and down onto the dozer track. Nearly knocked me out but didn't. Saw some stars and when I got my senses back check for broken teeth and/or torn lip. Got lucky, I guess, nothing broken or even bleeding. Very bad headache and a huge blood blister on the inside of the upper lip. Been about 7 hours now and still have a headache but, tomorrow I'm going to cut the damn pin out with the torch. I've taken a few tracks apart before on small John Deere dozers but never had so much trouble getting the master pin out. After I get this pin out, I need to remove the pin on the other track too. I tried using a portable press to push it out, but it was only a 6-ton press and didn't even budge it. Would appreciate it if you could tell me where I can buy new master pins for it. I think it's a 1961 or 1962 310E. Thanks, Greg PS---It's OK if you laugh at this story as it probably would have been fun watching.

Find yourself a pick. Burn the spade end off about a inch from the handle . Insert the point on the other end into the dimple on the master pin. You or a helper swing a sledge against the end you cut off.

This is much safer than having your face down by all these hard parts, and a missed swing won't get anyone hurt.

 

[case310]

Snap-on BJP1 ball joint press can get them out with a lot of heat and a Good impact


on my 310C I just replaced All of the rollers with new sealed rollers,
rebuilt the final drives, replaced front idler wheels and top roller brackets,
new transmission seals, new frame bolts, cleaned sanded, paint etc.

here she is in the beginning;
and as I progressed ,
(it should be buttoned up tomorrow)

 

[urbancase]

Snap-on BJP1 ball joint press can get them out with a lot of heat and a Good impact


on my 310C I just replaced All of the rollers with new sealed rollers,
rebuilt the final drives, replaced front idler wheels and top roller brackets,
new transmission seals, new frame bolts, cleaned sanded, paint etc.

here she is in the beginning;
and as I progressed ,
(it should be buttoned up tomorrow)

looks good, i remember working on mine well. but that was 30 years ago.