310 valve protrusion

[WFE270NWIA]

Taking the 310 out of my 1755 diesel apart. It's only supposed to have 1000 hours on an overhaul. Wanted to check the valve protrusion. How
do you check this and what is the specification? Thanks.

 

[Dieseltech]

With the head upside down on the bench, MOST direct injection diesels need valves flush to a given size BELOW flush of deck surface. Each engine service book needs checked for the correct valve location. On the Waukesha 283/310 the valves are to be ABOVE the deck surface, if I recall .040/.045 inch range. The 283 diesel in my 4-78 forklift started hard cold when I got it. Pulled the head and found all valves were flush with the head. Had all twelve valve seats installed, and had the valves set ABOVE the head .090/.095 inch. The pistons have a .140 deep valve pocket, and with the head gasket thickness added valves have plenty of overlap clearance. It starts MUCH better cold now. Correct valve location is VERY critical on diesel engines, much more so than gas engines are, as cold starting compression suffers quickly when diesel valves are too low.

 

[Cash4Toys]

Here is photo of the service bulletin on valves protrution.

 

[jacks]

I am rebuilding a 283 direct injection diesel. I had the machine shop set the valve protrusion to the specs in the service bulletin. However, checking for interference between the valves and pistons with playdoh, I found that there was only about 0.060 clearance between the intake valves and the recess in the piston. The pistons are going to have .040 milled from the intake valve recesses. Both my engine deck and head have been milled two or more times.

 

[WFE270NWIA]

Thanks that is what I was looking for. This engine had the updates but I was surprised to find that 3 of the one piece wrist pin bushings had turned blocking the oil passage and started to break up. If the rods are wore do they make over size bushings? Is it ok to reuse the 12 point rod bolts?

 

[Dieseltech]

I would not cut anything until the valve clearance during overlap was checked. Long as there's .030 inch clearance at exhaust/intake overlap I would leave it as is. My pistons had the valve pockets cut .140 inch deep, how deep are yours cut? If cut too much it WILL hurt cold starting compression heat.

 

[Cash4Toys]

I don't know if they do or not, dont think so. That would be a question for your machine shop. When I had my 1955 tore down the wrist pin bushings looked pretty bad, but spec wise they were fine. Find it hard to believe they turned. Did you rebuild it or someone else. Maybe it was not lined up perfect from the get go? I would replace the rod bolts if it were mine, costs to much to rebuild them to not, just my opinion.
Have those rods balanced, my was done to a 1/2 gram. Attached pic mine,

 

[Cash4Toys]

Here are the specs from the manual on the rod and piston pin. Hope this helps. As you can see in the specs they allowed for a 1/4 ounce weight variation on the rod assemblies, roughly 7 grams. When i rebuilt mine they balanced each end, and overall to within a 1/2 a gram.

 

[GermantownGreen]

Sidenote to you, I just came across a retirement sale in Topeka ks, for Dennis Heard
Turbo, pump shop.
On Big Iron Mar 29. Online
GG, Wes

 

[jacks]

The intake valve pockets were cut .040 deeper. The valve protrusion was increased to the maximum specs, and both the head and block were milled. I feel that with increased valve protrusion and additional compression due to resurfacing, I should end up with more compression than previously. This tractor has always started well in cold weather.

 

[WFE270NWIA]

It was rebuilt when I bought it. Reason for redoing is it got about a gallon of antifreeze in the crankcase. Talked to a local Oliver White mechanic today, the machine shop he uses puts JD bushings in if the rods are oversize.

 

[tom upton]

Be wary of rods that have lost a wrist pin bushing. Coincidentally I have a 2-70 that had 3 wrist pin bushings not aligned with oil hole as well. I still cant figure out how they turned unless last rebuilder installed either out of align or maybe not proper interference from honing rod bore round? 2 out of the 3 rods were scrap as small end had went oval too far. I was lucky in that I had a scrap 310 that had a couple good rods, but I believe there are several places that would sell you decent rods. Not sure how much oversize you are thinking of going with the JD bushings but be leery of reducing the section thru the top part of rod by over boring. They go oval easy enough as it is!
My personal opinion about balancing rods for stock RPM is not a bad idea if you do the entire rotating assembly, but will it make a difference? I have one fully balanced 283 and one that wasn't and they both run the same so was it worthwhile? Maybe time will tell I guess.
About the coolant in the oil pan. I assume it was from sleeve seals leaking? High heat silicone carefully smeared around the block bore were o-rings sit has worked great for me. Good luck with your build

 

[Adam Suess]

While you have it apart, I recommend measuring the pistons. The valve recesses should be .121 deep if there other than this such as .159. This indicates a reliance piston which for the 1755/1750 will result in around 300# compression when new. Minimum is 350#. I would recommend a set of keystone ring pistons for the 310 turbo. The turbo pistons work in a Natural Asperated engine.