3400 Parts Tractor

Getting ready to purchase this 3400 as a parts tractor for my 3000. I'm purchasing it for around $900, between the tractor and a hauler friend of mine trailering it home for me. The engine is locked up but hopefully everything else is good on it. Didn't want to pay that much, but if the carb, steering, auxillary valves, transmission, and rear tires are good, then maybe it's worth it. Not many parts tractors of these years in my area, but tons of 8Ns around. I've read the 3400s are practically the same as the 3000, just newer with a little more power?
 
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3000s and 3400s are of same era. 3400 has heavier front axle,non adjustable with bigger steering cyl rods. Most have 6x4 manuel trans with trans pto or 4x4 power reversing with no pto.
 
As Shaun said, the 3000 and 3400 were both made at the same time and are both models within the 3000 series. The 3000 model within the 3000 series is technically referred to as the 3100 in terms of parts lookup, and it is the general purpose agricultural chassis model with an adjustable width front axle. The 3400 is the Utility chassis model in the series and the only difference from the 3000 to the 3400 is the 3400 has a heavier duty non-adjustable front axle that is stronger for loader work. the 3400's were sold with the "reversing" transmissions that Shaun mentioned more often due to them mostly being sold with front end loaders and a reversing transmission is handy for loader work.
 
As the others have said 3400s are built on
the same platform as a 3000.
They were the smallest tractor Ford sold as a
tractor/loader/backhoe(TLB).
Often called grave diggers as that is what
they did a lot of.
 
3400's also had differences in the ring and pinion and pinion support bearing. Learned from my 3400 TLB with an 8 spd.
They also have cast oil pans.
 
Got it Tuesday evening and have spent the last few days tearing it down. 1971 Ford 3400, 8 speed tranny, live PTO, and I believe it did have a loader on the front originally. I was very pleased to find the 8 speed, since it's the same as my 3000, and the rear axle looks the same too. Shaun/Sean, y'all are spot on with the front axle, it's beefy!

Despite all the rust, everything came loose with persuasion, except for the front, right tie rod from the spindle Pittman arm. I'll probably take the Pittman arm off, take it to work, and try to press the tie rod out. I used a 5k pound puller and it didn't budge. The muffler was cut off at some point and exhaust left wide open so there's rust all in the exhaust ports, the whole steering system was full of water, and plenty of things rigged up but overall, not quite in as rough shape as I expected. Engine is definitely locked up, but doesn't look too bad at the moment. No external signs of failure so I'm guessing the oil pump failed or a bearing spun? I haven't popped the head off yet so we'll see. You're right about the cast iron oil pan too. I was going to get a good look at the lower end but taking that oil pan off looks like quite the chore! With the steering locked up, I couldn't turn it so now that everything has been taken apart, hopefully tomorrow, I'll figure out a way to tow and steer it back to the carport where my 3000 lives.

The carb was in pretty good shape, it had a nice FoMoCo 2 spool auxiliary valve on it, and a few odds and ends I'll keep as spares. Now to figure out how to rebuild the steering components.....
 
Got the tractor split this past Monday and moved the two halves back to my tractor shed to keep them out of the weather. With the front steering locked up, I had no choice but to split it; one front spindle is frozen big time!

Power steering components had water all in them, but I think I can get them rebuilt, we'll see. I tore the power steering pump down, ran it through a few cycles in the ultrasonic cleaner and it's ready to be reassembled. I drained the cylinders and plan on rebuilding them using this gentleman's technique https://youtu.be/TWtWZo624Zg?feature=shared I can't weld though so I'll have to get someone's help once I get to that point.

Tore down the starter and it's rusty, but in good shape other than that. Brushes, bushings, and armature all look good. Anyone know what to use in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean these pieces up without eating into them? Once I clean up the starter, I can reassemble it as well.

Clutch was down to the rivets, but the pressure plate and flywheel look great.

As far as the fuel system, the carb tore down and cleaned up pretty well. I'm going to try to rebuild the little transfer pump. Do I really need that little fuel filter screen? My tractor doesn't have it now, but I got one off the parts tractor and thought about possibly installing it on mine. I've read a bunch of people have issues with them.

Took the head off and the 1st cylinder is rough, 2nd cylinder is darn near perfect, and the 3rd is complete junk! I can't find anything wrong with this engine so I can only assume the oil pump quit and that's why it seized. I poured brake fluid on top of the pistons and then set the head back on for now. This block is in better shape than my other block I got from a 2000 so I'll probably get rid of the other one and rebuild this one....I hope. The heavy duty oil pan from this 3400 is a plus.

The two spool valve looks like it's in great shape, anything I should do before I install it on my tractor? The detent works fine and both valves move in both directions. I don't want to contaminate my system so should I flush it somehow? The fittings that came off of it looks like pipe thread banjo fittings, but I'd rather adapt them from pipe to JIC. Can I use pipe thread here or should I stick with the banjo style? I will say, I'm not fully convinced it's pipe thread. The -4 pipe to -4 JIC fitting I got screws into the valve just fine, but it's pretty loose in the threads until it bottoms out?

Any advice would be great, thanks y'all!

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The fittings that came off of it looks like pipe thread banjo fittings, but I'd rather adapt them from pipe to JIC.

I doubt that the banjo fitting bolts are NPT threads. NPT threads are tapered and it is the taper that provides the seal. Banjo fittings use crushable washers to provide the seal.
 

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