350 u power steering reassembled but not working

Don't blame you if your all as tired reading about this as I am posting about it! I decided to go ahead and reassemble and reinstall the power steering unit I repaired. For those new to this ongoing saga, this time I replaced a broken gear shaft that has been welded by a previous owner. I rebuilt the unit once before to replace bearings, seals etc that were shot after years of neglect. Both times the power steering functioned after the rebuild, not great, a bit stiff and sometimes intermittent, but fair.
I was determined to try and make it work smoothly this time. For ex.I recently posted requesting how to make the recommended adjustments etc.and believed I had figured it out. It turned smoothly with no binding with the tires up off the ground. Unfortunately, not the case. This time the steering is very very stiff I can barely get it to turn except a little in the middle range. It is also leaking oil from the hole in the pipe plug in the upper tube assembly in the picture. It didn't start leaking until I tried turning the wheel. It keeps leaking after I shut the tractor off. I imagine I have 2 problems. The fact that it's leaking and the fact that it won't turn. Perhaps they are related. As always any thoughts and suggestions appreciated.
 

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Don't blame you if your all as tired reading about this as I am posting about it! I decided to go ahead and reassemble and reinstall the power steering unit I repaired. For those new to this ongoing saga, this time I replaced a broken gear shaft that has been welded by a previous owner. I rebuilt the unit once before to replace bearings, seals etc that were shot after years of neglect. Both times the power steering functioned after the rebuild, not great, a bit stiff and sometimes intermittent, but fair.
I was determined to try and make it work smoothly this time. For ex.I recently posted requesting how to make the recommended adjustments etc.and believed I had figured it out. It turned smoothly with no binding with the tires up off the ground. Unfortunately, not the case. This time the steering is very very stiff I can barely get it to turn except a little in the middle range. It is also leaking oil from the hole in the pipe plug in the upper tube assembly in the picture. It didn't start leaking until I tried turning the wheel. It keeps leaking after I shut the tractor off. I imagine I have 2 problems. The fact that it's leaking and the fact that it won't turn. Perhaps they are related. As always any thoughts and suggestions appreciated.
I think there is a seal in the system #13 in the diagram sent. It could be leaking. With the axle in the air, and running, turn the wheel left to right back and forth to purge air from the entire steering system. Best I have Jim
 
The IH dealer service dept told me to tap into a pipe plug and route the leak back to the reservoir.
That is also a good idea. The return line could be made from fuel injection rated 1/4 inch hose. Maybe through 1/2" conduit bent to cross the zone between the dash and the reservoir. along the path of the existing Hydraulic tubes would be least troublesome. Jim

parts diagram
 
Don't blame you if your all as tired reading about this as I am posting about it! I decided to go ahead and reassemble and reinstall the power steering unit I repaired. For those new to this ongoing saga, this time I replaced a broken gear shaft that has been welded by a previous owner. I rebuilt the unit once before to replace bearings, seals etc that were shot after years of neglect. Both times the power steering functioned after the rebuild, not great, a bit stiff and sometimes intermittent, but fair.
I was determined to try and make it work smoothly this time. For ex.I recently posted requesting how to make the recommended adjustments etc.and believed I had figured it out. It turned smoothly with no binding with the tires up off the ground. Unfortunately, not the case. This time the steering is very very stiff I can barely get it to turn except a little in the middle range. It is also leaking oil from the hole in the pipe plug in the upper tube assembly in the picture. It didn't start leaking until I tried turning the wheel. It keeps leaking after I shut the tractor off. I imagine I have 2 problems. The fact that it's leaking and the fact that it won't turn. Perhaps they are related. As always any thoughts and suggestions appreciated.
Quick update here. I removed the steering box assembly from the tractor and rebuilt. There was no damage to any of the internal steering parts. This time I was more careful to rebuild and make the 4 or so adjustments for the steering in sequence as described by the manual. I also replaced the 2 smaller seals on the shafts and the 2 larger seals on the shaft covers (numbers 18 and 12 in the diagram. The steering did not bind with the front of the tractor in the air and everything moved greatly freely.

Started tractor, lowered to the ground and same exact problem. Seems to want to work a little bit at first then gets worse and fluid starts leaking out of the pipe plug with the hole as seen in the picture. I'm going to buy new seals for the bearings (#17). I wonder if hydraulic fluid is getting past these seals and folding the spool plungers and springs and causing them not to work properly.

Getting frustrated as I was able to get the non working steering working until the shaft broke. Now the shaft is replaced and no steering.All of the internal parts at least appear to be in good working order. It seems as thought this should be a solvable problem. Abby suggestions appreciated. Thanks Paul
 
Quick update here. I removed the steering box assembly from the tractor and rebuilt. There was no damage to any of the internal steering parts. This time I was more careful to rebuild and make the 4 or so adjustments for the steering in sequence as described by the manual. I also replaced the 2 smaller seals on the shafts and the 2 larger seals on the shaft covers (numbers 18 and 12 in the diagram. The steering did not bind with the front of the tractor in the air and everything moved greatly freely.

Started tractor, lowered to the ground and same exact problem. Seems to want to work a little bit at first then gets worse and fluid starts leaking out of the pipe plug with the hole as seen in the picture. I'm going to buy new seals for the bearings (#17). I wonder if hydraulic fluid is getting past these seals and folding the spool plungers and springs and causing them not to work properly.

Getting frustrated as I was able to get the non working steering working until the shaft broke. Now the shaft is replaced and no steering.All of the internal parts at least appear to be in good working order. It seems as thought this should be a solvable problem. Abby suggestions appreciated. Thanks Paul
Take out the pipe plug and put a barbed fitting in the hole. Use a rubber tube to "pipe" the residual "leaking" fluid to a bucket as a temporary test. Now see if it steers running with wheels up, back and forth for 10 cycles lock to lock. If it still works on the ground, then just adding the formerly mentioned leak return tube to the reservoir will allow operation! If the pressure in the entire control module above the worm is pressurized, it may not work. Best of luck, They are bad. I have fought mine several times. Jim
 
Hi Jim. I'll give this a shot.

Question for you. Based on your comment "If the pressure in the entire control module above the worm is pressurized, it may not work". Why would there be pressure above the worm". What's causing that? It's it possible I still have that locking nut too tight or to loose. As of now it's not much beyond hand tight.

I'll take some small consolation in the fact that you've struggled with these as well. My next question will be how do I convert this PSl system to manual steering. I don't want to damage it, I believe someone can figure out how to make this work. Thanks! Paul
 
Ford linkage removed WD9 PS Ford installed view I think the control "element" is between seals on the steering wheel shaft. There is operating pressure there from the Safety and regulator valving. The output pressure goes either to the top of the Steering cylinder,, or the bottom applying power to the gears. the worm and follower pin are lubed by 90wt. in the lower area. As to the conversion to Manual steering, Purchasing a manual box from a utility with manual steering is best there!! Trying to make the power assembly into manual might be possible, but the worm and pin are not very robust. The Power steering used on W-9 Internationals was a linkage type. similar to the Ford car system linked to. A 2 way cylinder is connected to one of the push pull drag links and anchored to the tractor chassis on the other end. The control is a valve system in the picture on the far right side that is activated by the ball joint in the linkage. this provides hydraulic power to the cylinder. Jim
 
Don't blame you if your all as tired reading about this as I am posting about it! I decided to go ahead and reassemble and reinstall the power steering unit I repaired. For those new to this ongoing saga, this time I replaced a broken gear shaft that has been welded by a previous owner. I rebuilt the unit once before to replace bearings, seals etc that were shot after years of neglect. Both times the power steering functioned after the rebuild, not great, a bit stiff and sometimes intermittent, but fair.
I was determined to try and make it work smoothly this time. For ex.I recently posted requesting how to make the recommended adjustments etc.and believed I had figured it out. It turned smoothly with no binding with the tires up off the ground. Unfortunately, not the case. This time the steering is very very stiff I can barely get it to turn except a little in the middle range. It is also leaking oil from the hole in the pipe plug in the upper tube assembly in the picture. It didn't start leaking until I tried turning the wheel. It keeps leaking after I shut the tractor off. I imagine I have 2 problems. The fact that it's leaking and the fact that it won't turn. Perhaps they are related. As always any thoughts and suggestions appreciated.
Is there ANY possibility the supply and return lines at the valve somehow got swapped?
 
I have given up on my 350. I had to rebuild a gear tooth in the steering box. Built up with 7018 and fitted. All bushings and seals were good. Worked on hydraulic feed. Still cannot steer on ground. I am only getting 500 psi on hydraulics. I have another pump but decided to give up and bought a Chinese tractor.
 
Is there ANY possibility the supply and return lines at the valve somehow got swapped?
I'll have to triple check but at the top of the valve are letters in the cast PWR and Rt I believe. I have the one marked RT going back to the reservoir under the seat. The pwr (power??) line goess behind the seat into the block of valves. I had to change the a badly kinked steel return line from steel to hose. That couldn't make a difference could it?
Thanks Paul
 
I have given up on my 350. I had to rebuild a gear tooth in the steering box. Built up with 7018 and fitted. All bushings and seals were good. Worked on hydraulic feed. Still cannot steer on ground. I am only getting 500 psi on hydraulics. I have another pump but decided to give up and bought a Chinese tractor.
I understand Tom. I keep thinking that the fix is just something basic I'm missing. It's frustrating because I did get it to work but then the previously welded gear shaft broke. I replaced that shaft. On the rebuild I undid all of the adjustment screws and reassembled per the manual. I wished I hadn't done that. I'm thinking the trick is getting those adjustments just right. I think my problem might be the up and down movement of the shaft. I'm goiim
rethink and pay more attention to the adjustment screw that governs up and down movement. The manual says travel has to be limited to .1 inches in total. I think mine is moving up and down to much but I don't have the gauge that measures. I'm going to replace some more seals that hopefully will address the leaking from the plug on top of the assembly pay more attention to the up and down travel and make sure the torque is perfect on the large adjustment nut that hold the assembly together. All suggestions appreciated!
Paul
 

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