3910 coolant change/flush

[BlueSteel]

This will be a first for me, I've never messed with any radiator in any vehicle ever; never had to. But, since I'm changing out all the fluids in this "new to me" tractor, I'm for sure clueless on this one.

What I want to do is just get the old fluid out and put new fluid in. Anybody got a step by step? Just drain and fill? Have to "flush" a certain way?

 

[David G]

There should be block drains to get it all out, if not, I would knock the plugs out.

 

[pinball]

there should be a plug or drain on the bottom of your radiator. you can drain most everything out. drain it in to a container not on the ground. once it stop draining fill it with water and a bottle of vinegar. run it for about 30 minutes then drain it again. let the motor cool down and fill back up with water. run it again till temp gets back up to normal or 15 minutes. drain again. let motor cool back off. once its cooled off put you water hose in the radiator and let flush for 5 minutes then shut your water off and let it all drain then after the motor Is cooled back down close your drain and refill with antifreeze. this is how I did my 960. worked very well but I also washed the radiator fins with the hose. remember this. cold water put into a hot block could damage the block so just make sure it has cooled down before you add water or coolant. not sure why you want to do this but my tractor was showing it was getting more warmer than usual. that's why I cleaned mine so if yours isn't showing any warming effect I would leave it alone.

 

[RickB]

Use the block drain AND the drain at the bottom of the radiator.

 

[Bern]

3 necessary steps to a good flush in my opinion:

1) Thermostat removed (with the housing reinstalled) and all plugs in the block and radiator removed also
2) A garden hose with good flow inserted into the top of the radiator
3) Engine running at half throttle or better

You'd be amazed at how much crap sits in the back of the water jackets of some of those old Fords. Leaving the thermostat in
does not promote enough agitation to get all of that crap out, IMHO.

 

[BlueSteel]

The reason that I want to change out the coolant is that I don't know the condition of it or its history and it's a 30 year old tractor, could be the same fluid for all I know.

Should I still try to change it, or just top it off and leave alone?

I've already changed all the other fluids except for power steering.

 

[Billy NY]

Another good reason is cavitation, which some of these were more prone to than others, good idea to change out and flush the existing coolant and replace with new coolant. You can check the condition of the existing coolant with test strips, but for what it costs to flush and replace, well worth doing on a tractor you don't know the service history of. I did this on my 4630, used the block drain, and lower hose connection to drain, forget what I flushed with, then replaced. The existing coolant looked good, even after draining and I knew this particular tractor had been serviced reasonably well by the dealer that sold it when new, but with questionable hours on it, and the fact that I changed all the fluids in the tractor at the same time.

I used a pre-mix coolant, diesel rated, was like a $100 with some extra. Be sure to use Distilled water if you don't use pre-mix and make sure the ratio is correct. There are also additives you can get, but you do need to know how to add same properly, pre-mix takes the guess work out of that and you know you are good. I had always mixed my own before.

 

[Shetland Sheepdog]

If the present coolant is a pretty green color, I wouldn't worry too much! If it's starting to have a brownish color, then, it needs to be replaced! However, you should add anti cavitation additive in any case! A lot of owners do not realize that there is a cavitation issue with diesel engines!
HTH, Dave

 

[Billy NY]

Another good reason is cavitation, which some of these were more prone to than others, good idea to change out and flush the existing coolant and replace with new coolant. You can check the condition of the existing coolant with test strips, but for what it costs to flush and replace, well worth doing on a tractor you don't know the service history of. I did this on my 4630, used the block drain, and lower hose connection to drain, forget what I flushed with, then replaced. The existing coolant looked good, even after draining and I knew this particular tractor had been serviced reasonably well by the dealer that sold it when new, but with questionable hours on it, and the fact that I changed all the fluids in the tractor at the same time.

I used a pre-mix coolant, diesel rated, was like a $100 with some extra. Be sure to use Distilled water if you don't use pre-mix and make sure the ratio is correct. There are also additives you can get, but you do need to know how to add same properly, pre-mix takes the guess work out of that and you know you are good. I had always mixed my own before.

 

[BlueSteel]

(quoted from post at 23:15:29 11/23/18) There should be block drains to get it all out, if not, I would knock the plugs out.

Block drain and plugs?

 

[Texasmark1]

On the diesel conditioner, I dug into that when I had an OTR rock bucket. Best I could tell sleeved engines, especially wet sleeved like JD are
succeptable. My big cam Cummins had an ion filter in a bypass line to cure the problem. JD had, which I used, and they don't sell any more, a liquid in
a 16oz bottle you used. It has to do with the compression stroke pushing up on the sleeves. I don't use anything now that I don't have sleeved
engines.

On the color, not necessarily your answer. The anti corrosive elements have a life cycle and you either change the fluid as the fluid mfgr recommends
or add an anti-corrossive element....not to be confused with the anticavitation element discussed above.

I think you would be well served to have someone versed on the subject show you how to do it and what to do and not to do. You have things like hot
fluid getting on you, having to add coolant mix once the thermostat opens, ensuring you get everything drained. Using a cleaning agent, type and how
to use it, proper filling of you radiator when finished and on and on.

 

[Bern]

Cavitation erosion does not just affect sleeved engines, it attacks parent bore engines as well, especially certain vintages of Ford tractor engines. You would be well advised to treat your Ford tractor cooling system every bit as religiously as a sleeved engine. Trust me, I've sleeved more Fords than I care to count, so I know what I'm talking about here.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Remove Thermostat is the best no doubt when its a hard one to remove this is how I do it... The vinegar flush is a waist of good Vinegar more a myth than anything else for those to damm lazy to do a good flush to start off with...





https://forums.yesterdaystractors.c...ostorder=asc&highlight=flush&start=15

 

[Texasmark1]

Ok sir, what is available at chain stores in your area that might be available here? Thanks.

 

[Bern]

Go to any truck shop to find something like this:
Fleetguard Complete

 

[Texasmark1]

I have one handy, IH, now Navistar....bought my first decent tractor from them back in '79 when they sold tractors too.

Thanks for the tip.