4000 piston sleeve replacement

[Stephen Ford]

I have a 1963 4000 diesel that just failed a compression test on cylinder #3. Further test indicate bottom end troubles. I have priced out overhaul kits and they all come with piston sleeves. Can the sleeves be replaced at home or does the block need to go to a machine shop? I have found a tool for the N models that makes it easy to do at home but nothing yet for the bigger brothers. Thanks again.

Steve Ford

 

[Jim.UT]

Try the link for larger Ford engine sleeve tools. Made and sold by The Old Hokie (TOH) a regular contributor on this site.
Windy Ridge Farm

 

[RBnSC]

I don't think that engine has sleeves. Some time during the years of production they quit making them with sleeves. I have two spare diesel blocks one has sleeves the other does not. These guys can tell you by the #s on the block.
Ron

 

[TomTex]

Stephen, it sounds like it very much needs a complete overhaul, since you have failed compression, and, "bottom end troubles" as you put it. Needs to go to machine shop BEFORE you order kit. They will mic out crank, measure cylinders, etc. Also get complete machine shop work on the head; shaved flat, magnaflux, etc. Then you can run for years and years. Tom

 

[awhtx]

I"m sure that Tony Jacobs has posted here that Ford quit using sleeves in "60 or "61 so if your tractor has it"s original block it won"t have sleeves.

 

[Stephen Ford]

Thanks for all the suggestions. About all of the overhaul kits I have looked at say they include sleeves so that is what had me thinking it has sleeves. I was hoping to do most the work myself to save machine shop labor since I already have more money in the tractor than it is worth. I guess I will pull the motor apart and see what has happened and go from there. Thanks again for all the reply's.

Steve Ford

 

[john_Bud]

You have no sleeve in a 1963 block from the factory. Who knows what has happened in the past 46 years?

You NEED to take it apart, THEN measure, then ORDER. Trust me, it"s much cheaper that way! (I know...). I would take off the head, then push the pistons/rods out the top and inspect before splitting the machine.

Your issue could be a cracked ring land or broken ring (especially if you have EVER used ether). In that case, you might be able to just pop in a new piston /ring and call it good. These are actually very tough engines, but the rod bolts are known to be weak on the diesels. Get new ones. Factory is OK, but aftermarket like ARP is better.

 

[Stephen Ford]

Well just an update on my situation. After thinking about this all day at work, I got home and stuck my bore scope into the suspect cylinder hoping something would show up. Naturally I see nothing out of place so I begin getting the head ready to pull. I decide to pull the exhaust and intake manifold to save some weight off the old back and what do I find but a shop rag stuck in the #3 intake port. Since I have never had the intake piping off up to this point this rag must have been sucked up whenever the old owner was doing whatever he was doing to the tractor.
Anyways, maybe some good luck for me. I have to go and borrow the compression tool again tomorrow and just verify this was the only problem. I was honestly hoping for a cracked/broken piston ring in a otherwise good bore but never something this simple. I will keep everyone updated on this and I do very much appreciate all the suggestions and helpful info.

Steve Ford