4010 clutch worth repairing

[burnsg2003]

I have a 19634010 tractor with a recently rebuilt 4020 diesel engin in it, Just repaired the steering it starts and runs good. My question is now the clutch needs rebuilt and their are some issues with the synchro shifting into 3rd gear and the corresponding 3re and reverse gears maybe related to clutch 1st seems to shift fine. My wife wants me to buy another tractor says the 4010 is nickel and diming me. However, if I bought a newer tractor I would want something equivalent to the 4010 but not sure I would be getting anything much more reliable than the 4010. at the current time I know what has been repaired on the 4010 afraid for no more than I could pay for and newer model probably an 80's model I would still have several repairs. Any suggestion or comments on what some of you would do. The Clutch needs rebuilt. Sheet metal and paint is good good front tires and rears are ok at about 40% used for hay.

 

[NY 986]

The shifting issue may be as simple as an adjustment or minor repair in the shift mechanism. Without checking I would imagine that the clutch pressure plate and clutch plate along with PTO clutch parts would be a thousand dollars less labor. Really not a bad job to disassemble to get at the clutch and flywheel. The flywheel may need to be resurfaced or possibly replace. What can you buy for the value of the 4010 once the repairs are factored in that will be presumably as reliable? Sure the engine could go in the 4010 but an engine could go in a similar age tractor. Yes, you could buy a low hour similar era tractor but you will pay dearly for the far lower wear. If the 4010 is perceived as having good major components aside from the clutch I would go ahead and rehab the 4010. The only reason to do different would be for a low hour alternative, factory cab, or gain features such as a MFWD or partial/full power shift.

 

[rrlund]

One word, 4040.

 

[JD Dave]

Split the tractor, inspect the pressure plate, resurface the flywheel if necessary, put in a pilot bearing, throw-out bearing and clutch disk and you're good to go. Inspect and adjust the shift linkage. Don't let anyone talk you out of a decent 4010. 4020's get all the attention, but 4010's were pretty good tractors also.

 

[tomstractorsandtoys]

Dad always said you have 2 choices Parts or payments. You already have the 4010 and needing a clutch would hurt the resale so I would put a clutch in it. Here in my shop I charge about $2000 parts and labor to do a 4010-4020 clutch. That is a rebuilt pressure plate assembly,2 new discs, bearings and new rear engine seal. Flywheels sometimes need attention but often do not. If your flywheel shows tiny cracks where the disc runs do not worry as these are heat cracks. You will also need to go over your trans linkage. If you decide to do this there some tips we can share. There is nothing wrong with a 4010 but if buying a tractor today I would look for a 4020 as the 4020's had a better pto setup than the 10 series. I started farming with a 4010 and put 1000's of pto hours on it. Not saying the 4010 pto setup is bad just that the 4020 is better. If you do decide to replace it with something else stay away from 2840's and 2940's. The 2950 was a little better. Best replacement is a 4040 or late 4230. Tom

 

[burnsg2003]

thanks for the input

 

[DR. EVIL]

TOM - Anyone talks 3010 or 4010 always the first thing anyone hears is about the pto problem. Somebody clued Dad in after he bought a '63 4010-D in December '68, it was in fair shape, already had the 4020 kit in the engine but the seller interupted the auctioneer and said, It does use a little oil. Yep, a little was 4-5 quarts per tank of fuel plowing with 4-14's and Midwest plow harrow, had to run in 2nd & 3rd in sod. It used less oil on lighter loads like our 12 ft disk. Only thing we used the 4010's pto for was combining 40 acres of oats with the #30 Deere pto combine. It didn't hammer the pto much, Dad had grade #8 hardware, blue Locktite, star washers, and he checked the capscrews every load of oats and we got along.
Summer of '72 the owners of the farm were auctioning the farm, Dad was in NO WAY interested in buying it, needed too much money spent to modernize. But we mowed weeds, hauled manure, and the 4010 got pressed into bush hog duty instead of the Super H, needed something with live pto, A Super M-TA or 450 would have been perfect but they got traded off. The Brillion 6 ft bush hog really hammered the pto on turns, first day cutting weeds the 90 hp of the 4010 in 5th gear cutting 2 ft tall grass in our big waterway sheared the output shaft of the bushhog easily, flush with the grease seal. So a day gathering parts and rebuilding the gearbox and back to cutting weeds. I come home from work and bush hog is parked and 4010 is gone to the one-man repair shop, the stub shaft loosened and tried to shift from 540 to 1000 while running. First thing I ALWAYS did getting on the 4010 was enngage the pto, that overly long pto lever was surely going to rob Dad any chance of a grandson if I wasn't careful. But he complained EVERY TIME I did it.
The snapring on the 4020's pto is enough better than the capscrews on the 3010/4010, that I would call the 3010/4010 pto bad, they built 3010/4010 for 4 yrs, the 3020/4020 they built 9 years, over 210,000 more 4020's to look through before spending your money. If it wasn't for the pto, the only reason to buy a 4020 would be to get a Power Shift.
I had a couple 4020's, a new 4320, and then a 4230 at the neighbor's to compare to Dad's 4010. I can't think of another 4010 anywhere around, the guys that bought 4010's got rid of them in a hurry. Our's never came back from the shop having the pto fixed, Dad sold it to the son of a guy Dad went to school with, young guy had an M&W turbo put on it and about 8-10 months later knocked the transmission or rearend out. I'm sure our 4 bottom plow and 12 ft disk didn't hurt it much.

 

[tomstractorsandtoys]

Dr Evil I really wonder what for life your 4010 must of had before your dad bought it. I bought mine used in 1989 with 7000 hours. It was a very clean Ohio grain farm tractor. We swapped the 4010 engine for a 4020 right away. I always used it to chop silage including lots of custom work. This required changing the pto from 540 to 1000 several times a year. I never had any problems with the bolts working loose or any other pto problems. It is very important that the drive pins on the stub shaft are not worn. It is to drive from the pins and not the bolts. About 10 years ago I bought a NH 411 discbine with pto driveline issues and that did make the bolts come loose and shear as well as twisted the pto stub shaft and sheared the pto pin. I also had a 3010 that we used for years with no pto problems. Lots of 4010's were hauled east during the 80's and most people got along good with them. Mine is in the back of the shed awaiting an engine rebuild because of water in the oil. Your story reminds me of a neighbor that bought 2 4030's new the same day. At his sale he said the one was never in the shop and the other one always had something wrong with it. He never said which was which.LOL Tom

 

[NY 986]

There were a lot of 4010's sold new around here. Just how the cards fell in terms of a farm addressing a need at a given time. A lot of them are still with their original farms even if the purchaser is not around any more. My 4010 has been here since it was bought new during the late spring of 1963. It has been very little trouble over the years. It has run heavy PTO equipment including a flail spreader, 2 row forage harvester, and 347 square baler without issue to the PTO. The only time it had an issue was when I forgot to fully tighten and bend the tabs going from planting with a 400 IH Cyclo with 1000 RPM pump to the 540 RPM 469 Haybine. A bent or rusted implement PTO shaft will not just break a 10 series stub off of the back of the tractor. Knock on wood that we never bent a shaft in those days and always found the necessary grease zerk or applied chain lube to the implement PTO slide sleeve assembly. I'm not saying that DR E did not have problems but a lot of them started with the previous owner(s) going by the story he tells. I don't care what make and model five years of poor care will doom any tractor. There was a dairy farm nearby years ago where the joke was tractors go to die there. That is the operation and maintenance was very poor there.

 

[SVcummins]

No one knew how bad the ten series Deeres were or how worthless a 3020 was until yesterdays tractor was formed .

 

[61-4010]

Our 1961 4010D is a work horse. Used for field prep (cultimulching), planting, hay cutting, baling, frontend loader work. Still a 24v system. 100% functioning and strong.

Like any machine...maintenance and knowledge is key.

I'd replace the clutch, tighten up the shifter links and use it another 60 years.