4010 seat repair

2520-4010

Member
Does anyone know how to "overhaul" a seat for a 10 or 20 series tractor? The up-down slide must be worn; the seat moves from side to side, and does not slide up and down as it should.

Any help or articles on rebuilding the seat?

Thanks!
 
I assume that you have the deluxe seat?

If so, the bushing in these seats can get quite worn to the point of "wallering" out the bushing holes.

When I rebuilt my 4010 seat last year, I had to fill weld the holes, bought new bushings, new rollers for the slide (there are 4 of them), new spring and cabled for the seat return and even had the seat shock replaced. Today, she works great!!! Well worth the time and coins.

Attached some pics of the holes that I had to fill weld and the new bushings.
v6753.jpg

v6754.jpg

v6755.jpg
 
I re-build them a lot,it would be hard to discribe the procedure,but it can take $700 or so to go clear through a seat assembly, I have welded up the arms,,but I don't any more, it makes for a better job replaceing the arms when they won't hold a bushing,the next time I replace a shock assembly I'm going to get an after market one that is allready set up, they are nasty to change out,,when the custumer gets one back from a rebuild there first reaction is "Holy s--t" thats a lot of money,,then the set on it for an afternoon and they say it was worth it,,when the get bad they tilt forward and makes you butt tired trying to keep from sliding off it all day..
 


,when the get bad they tilt forward and makes you butt tired trying to keep from sliding off it all day..

This describes mine....I surely wish JD would put all their service manuals online.....too much to ask, I guess it would take a lot of computer to hold that much info.
 
If you don’t have a tech manual from JD you should get one as they are pretty helpful in the repairs. My total cost was about $250 and a lot of time of course as I completely stripped all the metal down and repainted while it was all apart. If you’re going to completely disassemble the OEM snap rings for the shaft that the coil spring is on are a real bear put on with out the right tool as they have no ears like regular external snap rings. I ended doubling up using 2 conventional snap rings with ears to replace the thick JD ones. They may not be as heavy duty but I’m sure they will outlast me. I agree with Tim on the complete aftermarket shock. I decided to be cheap and save $40 and just buy the shock and reuse the old spring. After wasting a bunch of time rigging up a spring compressor to remove the old spring and then do it all over again to put the old spring on the new shock was way more time than what it was worth. Plus the fact it's a little dangerous if the spring compressor isn't the right tool for the job. A spring under 400 + pounds of pressure has a lot of stored energy if it lets go. The rest of my rebuild went much better as all I needed were all the new bushings.
Good luck
 
If you decide to tear into your's get you digetal camara out and snap a few pic's, be sure to mark some key parts with a paint stick, like top, or bottom left or right, this will help you go back together,,when they come apart it's hard to sort out,,the pic's will help..
 
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