4020 Clutch

[Josh M.]

Need insight on what you guys use for clutches on a 4020. Buddy of mine put a brand new hy-capacity clutch in after we did a full rebuild on the motor. Its had 600 hours on it since rebuild and it’s wore out the pto clutch fingers once (they are not riding on the release bearing when the pto is off), snapped a spring on one of the pto fingers, and snapped one of the studs on the pto finger (the stud the arrow is pointing to in the photo). Do we have something out of adjustment or did we just get a bad clutch? Any ideas on a better quality clutch? It’s going to need split for a 3rd time so we are going to replace the whole thing again. The tractor runs a twin screw feed mixer twice a day every day, so it doesn’t have the easiest life but I would expect a clutch to last longer than 600 hours.

 

[JIM MN]

What year is your 4020? I dont think you need a hy- capacity clutch. A regular fiber faced disk will work just fine for what you are using the tractor for. Did everything get put together correct? Did you get the PTO disk in the right way, long hub up. Also did the ground clutch disk get put in correct, long hub down. The three long fingers with bolts are the ground clutch. The three short fingers are for the PTO. Your bolt that broke (red arrow) is on the ground clutch finger. Was the metal block on the bolt on the ground clutch finger installed with flat side up, against the nuts? Do you have two new throw-out bearings and pilot bearing? If things were put together correct, then look at adjustments? Did you adjust the fingers using gauge JDE 19 for the ground clutch fingers and PTO fingers. Each of the three set of fingers have to be the same level-important. And after you got tractor running, did you adjust free travel on the ground clutch pedal and free travel on the PTO lever?

 

[Josh M.]

What year is your 4020? I dont think you need a hy- capacity clutch. A regular fiber faced disk will work just fine for what you are using the tractor for. Did everything get put together correct? Did you get the PTO disk in the right way, long hub up. Also did the ground clutch disk get put in correct, long hub down. The three long fingers with bolts are the ground clutch. The three short fingers are for the PTO. Your bolt that broke (red arrow) is on the ground clutch finger. Was the metal block on the bolt on the ground clutch finger installed with flat side up, against the nuts? Do you have two new throw-out bearings and pilot bearing? If things were put together correct, then look at adjustments? Did you adjust the fingers using gauge JDE 19 for the ground clutch fingers and PTO fingers. Each of the three set of fingers have to be the same level-important. And after you got tractor running, did you adjust free travel on the ground clutch pedal and free travel on the PTO lever?

1965 if I remember correctly. He got that whole clutch assembly as one piece, it was all put together and ready to bolt on. I believe he followed all the steps on the papers the clutch came with and a manual he has, and yes I did get that wrong, the stud is on the drive fingers. I did drive it after the fact, clutch free play was good and so was the pto lever free play. I don’t know deeres whatsoever so I figured id ask you guys

 

[Josh M.]

What year is your 4020? I dont think you need a hy- capacity clutch. A regular fiber faced disk will work just fine for what you are using the tractor for. Did everything get put together correct? Did you get the PTO disk in the right way, long hub up. Also did the ground clutch disk get put in correct, long hub down. The three long fingers with bolts are the ground clutch. The three short fingers are for the PTO. Your bolt that broke (red arrow) is on the ground clutch finger. Was the metal block on the bolt on the ground clutch finger installed with flat side up, against the nuts? Do you have two new throw-out bearings and pilot bearing? If things were put together correct, then look at adjustments? Did you adjust the fingers using gauge JDE 19 for the ground clutch fingers and PTO fingers. Each of the three set of fingers have to be the same level-important. And after you got tractor running, did you adjust free travel on the ground clutch pedal and free travel on the PTO lever?

Also yes pilot bearings and throw out bearing is new.

 

[620 John]

We've been using clutch discs from Ag Parts LTD. All other parts we use JD. On 3 tractors we used throw out bearings from Ag Parts and all 3 tractors came back with the traction throw out bearings welded to the fingers. 1 of the tractors was a different customer than the other two so I don't think it was operator error. All made it about 1 year. Since then we used all JD parts except for the discs. I've been told JD discs are a POS.

 

[matthies]

Friend of mine put a HyCap clutch in his tractor and couldn't get it adjusted right, tried everything, then called me still couldn't figure it ou., Then called HyCap, they assembled is wrong.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

1965 if I remember correctly. He got that whole clutch assembly as one piece, it was all put together and ready to bolt on. I believe he followed all the steps on the papers the clutch came with and a manual he has, and yes I did get that wrong, the stud is on the drive fingers. I did drive it after the fact, clutch free play was good and so was the pto lever free play. I don’t know deeres whatsoever so I figured id ask you guys

I think the one thing missing in the response is did it get adjusted with the tool? They usually come with the fingers way out of alignment

 

[tomstractorsandtoys]

Need insight on what you guys use for clutches on a 4020. Buddy of mine put a brand new hy-capacity clutch in after we did a full rebuild on the motor. Its had 600 hours on it since rebuild and it’s wore out the pto clutch fingers once (they are not riding on the release bearing when the pto is off), snapped a spring on one of the pto fingers, and snapped one of the studs on the pto finger (the stud the arrow is pointing to in the photo). Do we have something out of adjustment or did we just get a bad clutch? Any ideas on a better quality clutch? It’s going to need split for a 3rd time so we are going to replace the whole thing again. The tractor runs a twin screw feed mixer twice a day every day, so it doesn’t have the easiest life but I would expect a clutch to last longer than 600 hours.

Broken bolts are common on the aftermarket setups as they do not use hard bolts. Ag Parts has switched to hard bolts recently as the last 2 I did had them. I use the complete Ag Parts kits but do not use the throwout bearings. A friend gets me some better quality ones.

 

[M-MAN]

Just curious but does anyone rebuild them now a day's?

It's been a long time but it was rare that we replaced a clutch or pp back when I was working on them. New linings and hardware from Deere. Pp and flywheel reground when needed. The kit would save time.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Yes some still do you can save a small amount of money if the person is using Deere parts and not paying for labor. Flywheel should be surfaced regardless

I did one in 2020 when I couldn’t get parts for a 2510 new disks new fingers new springs. We carefully cleaned a pressure plate as well which is a bit naughty but I didn’t have a choice and it worked great.