4020 Propane needs radiator repair

[Rapidrob]

I was washing my 4020 Propane and noticed it was leaking coolant. I removed the radiator from the tractor and plugged up the bottom fitting and noticed two leaks in the core about 1/3 the way from the top.
No one in Albuquerque will repair or replace the core. The fellow on the phone says no one he even knows in the businesses does repairs to radiators anymore.
Since this radiator is for propane, the two gas control rods go through the top of the radiator.
Where can I get the radiator repaired? The core replaced? It appears to be at least two rows thick (3") and 20"x23" square.
Thank you.

 

[matthies]

This site has a complete new one.

 

[Rapidrob]

Thank you.
It would be nice to fix. I found the two pin holes in the core. All copper.

 

[Tom in Mo.]

New Mexico is a long way from Missouri but there are two shops within an hour of me that recore radiators still. Potosi MO and Desoto MO. About 500 bucks. Ask around in the small towns as that is how I found out about these two shops still in business.

 

[Rapidrob]

I new one is only 50 bucks more. Thanks for the info.

 

[teddy52food]

I was washing my 4020 Propane and noticed it was leaking coolant. I removed the radiator from the tractor and plugged up the bottom fitting and noticed two leaks in the core about 1/3 the way from the top.
No one in Albuquerque will repair or replace the core. The fellow on the phone says no one he even knows in the businesses does repairs to radiators anymore.
Since this radiator is for propane, the two gas control rods go through the top of the radiator.
Where can I get the radiator repaired? The core replaced? It appears to be at least two rows thick (3") and 20"x23" square.
Thank you.

Have any plumber friends? They may be able to solder it so it doesn't leak? I would try it myself if it were here.

 

[Rapidrob]

To try to save a few bucks, I assembled a Radiator test area and will try the Bards Radiator Stop-Leak. Before you go ballistic, at this point it is worth a try to see if I can plug up the two tiny pinholes.
After compiling some Red-neck engineering I was able to cobble together a test devise that will provide almost 2 gallons a minute at about 5 PSI.
I bought two 2" rubber blanking caps and drilled a 3/4" hole in them dead center. I then installed two 2 1/2 Gallon shop Vac hoses into the holes in the caps. A very nice tight fit that only gets tighter under pressure.
The pump is a 1/2 HP Sump pump from HF. It will provide 2 gallons a minute under 5 PSI.
The pump sits in a 5 gallon bucket. I cut the power cord and installed an ON/OFF switch.
I test ran the system and it works well with only a few drops of water under pressure at the fittings. And yes, the two pin holes leaks were dead center in the core and dribbling.
I will in the AM set all outside in the sun and heat up the water/stop leak to over 100 degrees F.
If the Bards Stop Leak work, so much the better.
Yes, I will flush out the radiator as I do not want that crap in the engine.
If it does not work, a new radiator will be ordered. They DO NOT include the mounting frame. You have to unsolder the old one and reuse it.
Leaks in yellow.

 

[Mark-Ia]

If you have access to the pin holes, clean the area with a dab a small amount of JB Weld on the cleaned area. I have a tractor that has been operating that way.

 

[Rapidrob]

The Bars did not work. I ran the pump after the normal required time for several hours afterwards and it still leaks.
I will pry the fins back and see if I can locate the pin hols and solder them up.

 

[Tom in Mo.]

My experience with several radiators that had pinholes is once they start they will continue so patching up a few holes now means you will probably get more in the not too distant future. I'd have it recored if you could locate a shop using your original (heavy) tanks. Yes a new one is just 50 bucks more plus $150 shipping.

 

[Rapidrob]

The radiator core is too far gone, and the holes are in the center!
This radiator has a steel frame around it (you do not get this with a new radiator) and it is soldered in places at six points.
What is the best method to remove and re-solder this frame to the new radiator? I'd hate to melt the new core's internals!

 

[MJMJ]

The radiator core is too far gone, and the holes are in the center!
This radiator has a steel frame around it (you do not get this with a new radiator) and it is soldered in places at six points.
What is the best method to remove and re-solder this frame to the new radiator? I'd hate to melt the new core's internals!

Unless I misunderstand what you’re describing, that steel frame is part of the radiator. It will be part of the new one as well.

 

[stevieb49829]

The radiator core is too far gone, and the holes are in the center!
This radiator has a steel frame around it (you do not get this with a new radiator) and it is soldered in places at six points.
What is the best method to remove and re-solder this frame to the new radiator? I'd hate to melt the new core's internals!

If your new radiator doesn't come with the steel "surround", you can unsolder your surround and reuse it. But, use a hot torch (like MAPP gas) to resolder it onto your new radiator. Clean and tin the spots on the new one carefully, add some solder to the spots on the surround, and heat them only to the point where they melt down into your tinned areas. steve

 

[Rapidrob]

Thank you for the reply. The photo of the radiator for sale here on this site does not have the frame. I will call them Monday and get the skinny on the frame.

 

[Rapidrob]

I ordered a new radiator today that has the mounting brackets.

 

[Scott 730]

I ordered a new radiator today that has the mounting brackets.

............. from where????

 

[Rapidrob]

A fellow on Ebay had a new one with the brackets and the two holes.

 

[Rapidrob]

The radiator showed up via FEDEX. They went out of their way to destroy the radiator which they did. The shipping box was holed in several places and smashed.
All of the heavy duty styorofoam packing was broken.
The box was clearly marked in large stencils "Fragile, This end up." I got it upside down. The filler neck was driven into the upper tank. Cooling fins smashed. Seams pulled apart. Drain valve missing, but the empty bag in the box.
FEDEX strikes again.
I got a refund, and I still need a "new" replacement radiator. Back to square-one.