4020 steer motor puller tool

tim s

Well-known Member
Here are some pics of my 4020/3020 steer motor puller. Some times they are tight and there is not much room to pry on them. I run two longer 1/2" bolts into the flange holes then let the cross bar pull again them by tightening the 2 larger bolts threaded into the spindle, it works great.
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Yes they get real tight on the dowel pins, and the best places open to pry on are on a fitting,,which is a big No-No...I am looking to make an installing tool using a short transmission jack on casters with an angle platform, they are a bit heavy to stick up in there and some times you don't get them timed the first try,,Darn it..I did this 4020 last night and am doing a 2510 this morning, the 2510 has a 50 side mount hanging on it that will need to come off first...
 
I did mine on the 4020 a couple years ago. I don't remember how. Must be it came right apart! I only did it because the latest local expert I took the steering valve to demanded the motor be checked and resealed after he heard of my history with the "valve".
If there's a next time, the valve is headed west into Ohio!
I trust the 60C is safely back home. When does the blade go on?
 
I still haven"t got a blade bought "yet",,,I am dealing for one on a blown up 2010 crawler 15 miles south of me,,it"s a 6-way like I want, I have the new valves for it here, am going to start plumbing them up as soon as I get this shop full of tractors out,,I sorta got behind last week....
 
Only if some one dropped in a hole and detonated one, they are very rebuild-able other than that, I got one in my test bench that cam out of a roll mover.
 
To put mine back in I bought 3 sets of 4 bolts that were about 1" different lengths. I started by threading the four longest bolts on the corners as far as they would go with the valve hanging underneath. Then I unscrewed one bolt and replaced with the next size bolt until I had all four bolts replaced and then repeated this process for each size bolt until I had the originals back in and the valve mounted high enough that I could check the timing marks. Missed it the first time by one spline so I had to lower it and try again. Doing it this way, I did not have to try and hold the valve and line it up and start the bolts. It also gave me control to make sure the valve was going in straight up and not at an angle to prevent binding.

Probably not the best (or fastest) way but it worked for me.
 
They are a bit heavy to do by hand, but that is the way I have been doing them, helps burn calories :>)
 
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