4140 power steering valve markings

Thought I was done with full resto on the 1964 HD Industrial 4140, got the new PS lines installed with new fittings and no leaks at the fitting. BUT, I had fluid coming out top of steering column (not a super rare problem). Lots to read in the archives, so I will replace the upper oil seal and pump filter. However, I discovered that I had previously installed the PS Valve upside down. The photos show cast in lettering at the ports. The left one looks like it says "R" and the right one looks like "F-A" or "P-A". I would assume the R refers to the port for the return line and the P for the Pressure line. However, according to all the diagrams I can find, it looks like the left one that says "R" is supposed to be the Pressure Point, and the "P or F" is supposed to be the Return port. Does anyone have any experience in this? It's a messy job fixing things if over pressure forces oil past the oil seal and fills the column, so I want to get this one right on first re-assembly. Thanks to all, Larry.
 

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Larry,

I also have my 4140 PS control valve apart to replace seals. Hoping we can help each other out. I kept my valve oriented based on the locations of the hoses. I labeled my hoses as 12, 1, 8, and 9 O'clock. My hose which has an extra hydraulic fitting was at the 9 o'clock location. What I'm now struggling with is which two bore holes get the springs and which ones get the castle looking part with check balls. I'm also not sure if the center piston goes back in with the interior diameter groove up or down?
 

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The interior ring on the central valve always goes DOWN. I had the same issue regarding the anti cav pistons. Not sure what you mean by an extra fitting, I presume this just goes from the hose end to the valve port. You should be able to easily determine which hose goes where, two of the ports have the cast letters "cyl" on the top by each of the two ports. The pressure line port is the one where the anti cav pistons go, I think this is the only one where the port hole is directly adjacent to one of the 3 vertical piston holes. The port with the cast letter "R" is the return port. Regarding the two cylinder ports, once these are attached you will be fine. When you are ready for the initial PS test, jack up the tractor front so wheels are off the ground. Turn the wheel and if the wheels go in the direction you want, you are fine, if not, just reverse the two hoses right at the end of the actual cylinder. Suggestion- after you get the steering column back on, do no install any sheet metal. Do your initial test to check operation, and also for leaks at all the fittings, i.e. at the valve, cylinder, pump pressure and return ports, and also at the PS fluid cooler unit. Ours are of course different from the Hundred Series Fords as we have only 3 vertical piston holes versus 4 for the earlier tractors.
Hope this helps, keep up updated, Best, Larry.
 
Larry,

I also have my 4140 PS control valve apart to replace seals. Hoping we can help each other out. I kept my valve oriented based on the locations of the hoses. I labeled my hoses as 12, 1, 8, and 9 O'clock. My hose which has an extra hydraulic fitting was at the 9 o'clock location. What I'm now struggling with is which two bore holes get the springs and which ones get the castle looking part with check balls. I'm also not sure if the center piston goes back in with the interior diameter groove up or down?
i urgently need to know hole that horned plungers with ball's go in. dwo37 in Mi.
 
Hello guys, i urgently need to know which hole in control valve, the 2 horned plungers and 2 ball's go into for 63 4140. thank you. Don
 
i urgently need to know hole that horned plungers with ball's go in. dwo37 in Mi.
Actually I have a now vague memory that it no longer matters on these 3 hole valves. They were used originally as anti-cavitation devices and were supposed to go into the hole closest to the incoming pressure line. However, as I recall, the design of the 3 hole valve no longer required an anti cav device because the oil under pressure has other directions to flow within the valve. I put mine in the hole closest to my pressure line and it all works. Do not use the schematics of the 4 hole valve to determine where to put the "horns" in on these 3 hole valves.
 
Actually I have a now vague memory that it no longer matters on these 3 hole valves. They were used originally as anti-cavitation devices and were supposed to go into the hole closest to the incoming pressure line. However, as I recall, the design of the 3 hole valve no longer required an anti cav device because the oil under pressure has other directions to flow within the valve. I put mine in the hole closest to my pressure line and it all works. Do not use the schematics of the 4 hole valve to determine where to put the "horns" in on these 3 hole valves.
 
HELLO LARRY FROM DON IN MI. THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT. DO YOU STILL HAVE YOUR 4140? I KNOW THE 4 HOLE VALVES WERE ON EARLIER TRACTORS (LIKE ON MY 841 AND MY 961), BUT I HAVE NEVER SEEN A DIAGRAM FOR THOSE MODELS THAT SHOWS LOCATION OF PLUNGERS. WHICH HOLE IS THE INCOMING PRESSURE LINE? DID YOU HAVE ANY TROUBLE LINING UP THE SPLINE ON STEERING COLUMN TO GEAR IN STEERING BOX? WHERE ARE YOU LOCATED? I AM NOT A MECHANIC BUT HAVE 8 OLD FORD TRACTORS AND USUALLY CAN FIX THEM BUT NONE OF MY FRIENDS HAVE EVER TAKEN A STEERING BOX APART. i DID MINE A YEAR AGO TO PUT A NEW BUSHING AND WASHER AT THE VERY BOTTOM OF GEAR BOX. I THOUGHT I PUT EVERYTHING BACK CORRECTLY BUT TRACTOR TURNS TO RIGHT BUT NOT TO THE LEFT. I WILL BE TAKING IT APART AGAIN WITH NEXT COUPLE WEEKS SO TRYING THE TO LEARN AS MUCH AS POSSILBE FROM GUYS ON THIS GREAT POST. OTHERWISE THE TRACTOR RUNS GREAT AND IS IN BEAUTIFUL CONDITION. i WOULD POST A PHOTO BUT NOT SURE HOW TO DO IT. THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR HELP. DON
 
Firstly, the single greatest problem everyone seems to have with this period tractor is with the power steering. Almost everyone has to assemble and then disassemble and then reassemble the power steering components 3 or more times before getting it right, and we do it so many times that we forget what goes where. We screw up which hydraulic lines go into which hole in the valve and into the single cylinder, plus which side goes up, plus problems with the eaton pump, plus plumbing in the Power Steering cooler, etc. Also, no one makes the banjo fitting for the PS hoses, so if you need to replace a hose / tube, then good luck figuring out which newer type of fitting will work without leaking. So do not pull your hair out, I do not know anyone that does not have a problem. In answer to your question, yes I do have my 4140 1964yr, I just finished the resto on my attached back hoe. Remember the foundry letters that are on the valve ports goes UP. Also, do not rely on how it was assembled when you first started, just as often as not a prior owner also assembled it incorrectly. I just put the "horns" into the vertical hole that lined up closest to the Pressure port, which is marked on the valve (you will see two ports with "CYL" raised letters), and then two others also marked. One of those is pressure and one is return.
Hope this helps a bit, but unfortunately trial and error is likely to prevail.
 
Firstly, the single greatest problem everyone seems to have with this period tractor is with the power steering. Almost everyone has to assemble and then disassemble and then reassemble the power steering components 3 or more times before getting it right, and we do it so many times that we forget what goes where. We screw up which hydraulic lines go into which hole in the valve and into the single cylinder, plus which side goes up, plus problems with the eaton pump, plus plumbing in the Power Steering cooler, etc. Also, no one makes the banjo fitting for the PS hoses, so if you need to replace a hose / tube, then good luck figuring out which newer type of fitting will work without leaking. So do not pull your hair out, I do not know anyone that does not have a problem. In answer to your question, yes I do have my 4140 1964yr, I just finished the resto on my attached back hoe. Remember the foundry letters that are on the valve ports goes UP. Also, do not rely on how it was assembled when you first started, just as often as not a prior owner also assembled it incorrectly. I just put the "horns" into the vertical hole that lined up closest to the Pressure port, which is marked on the valve (you will see two ports with "CYL" raised letters), and then two others also marked. One of those is pressure and one is return.
Hope this helps a bit, but unfortunately trial and error is likely to prevail.
Hello guys, i hope to be able to post some info soon to help all the guys having problems with the power stng on the hd industrials. I had hoped to start today by rechecking location for all 4 hoses to pump, pump return and two to cylinder. just started and lights in house went out. massive ice storm here in southern mi. power returned just a couple hours ago. in next week or so i intend to take the steering system apart and check my 3 hole power control valve, and check again which hole i put the 2 horned plungers and 2 balls into. I also will also reset the steering column splines to splines on stng box shaft, i still have a feeling i may not have them exactly right. will let you know what i find. any suggestions before i start over again??? Thank you, Don
 
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