4230 Temp problem

[JPK]

I have a 1977 4230 cab tractor. The lower radiator hose does not get hot. Temp hand is about half way after
feeding cattle. Heater works good. Sometimes it will push a little coolant out of the overflow tube. Could this be a thermostat problem or radiator plunged up with trash. I have not changed the thermostats for at least 20 years.

 

[Roger in Iowa]

Lower hose not hot says radiator is not plugged with trash externally. If not overheating says thermostats maybe doing their job. What is ambient temps and how long are you running feeding? Maybe normal operating situation.

 

[wore out]

When filling the radiator are you covering the core with coolant plus some more, but allowing space for expansion?

If the t-stats are that old I would certainly put replacing the t-stats on the list to do as soon as time and weather permit.

 

[buickanddeere]

Low rad hose is cool because the radiator is cooling the coolant .
Could be slow circulation from a failing pump ? As orevilaoy stated ,
Yes it is time for fresh thermostats . And new HD diesel coolant concentrate mixed with distilled water . NOT tap water .

This post was edited by buickanddeere on 02/08/2023 at 03:10 pm.

 

[Papaw8]

Radiator cap or overfilling

 

[used red MN]

I agree with everything Roger posted. What was added about the level you fill the radiator as being important to whether or not the over flow spits is very true. Say it is 15F out and ..feeding cattle.. means you are just moving a couple round bales through some fairly level terrain. You already have the heater cooling one stream of coolant that is being pumped back in the engine. The spec temperature on thermostat is the temp where it just begins to open. Under a light load and low temps the thermostat(s) may only open enough to let a stream that would flow slowly out of a half inch hose into the top of the radiator, purely hypothetical. As it flows down the air going over the radiator fins and tubes is doing its thing lowering the coolant temp. Since it is a closed system what the thermostat lets out the top an equal amount of cool coolant is immediately being drawn into the water pump by the bottom hose to circulate into the engine. So as long as the load remains light and the ambit temp stays cold this reduced flow of circulation may continue for hours. I am sure you have stood by a tractor that is running 3/4 to full throttle and have felt the amount of air the fan pushes. Just think about all that air only cooling that small stream of coolant. So yes it is not unheard of for the lower radiator hose to remain cool in lower temp light load operation. Is there a problem with how it is operating? The key item to know is if something is acting on the coolant to over pressure the coolant and push it past the cap or is the radiator simply to full and when the coolant expands is it just being forced past the cap because it has no where else to go? Here is my opinion which is worth exactly what you are paying for it. I do not think it is to much to expect thermostats to last 20 years, and I do not think it is unheard of that they might last another 10 or more. Also it has 2 so if one fails and sticks closed the other one is still there doing its thing. However on a engine like that tractor has where each thermostat controls the flow from half the head operating very long with one of them stuck is not ideal. I will say if you expect the tractor to be reliable when you need it, new thermostats and coolant is probably a good idea to put on a list as a required upcoming service.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Water pump is a very good possibility however it usually is overheating. 2 thermostats and a water pump is what I take with me if that was the customers complaint. Wont really know unless you take thermostats out and test them on the stove. If they test good and close when cold it would be tempting to put the water pump in while theres no coolant in the tractor especially if not rebuilt recently. If the air temperature is cold enough a rag from a rebuild sucked up to the water pump will also do this...

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Also suspicious of your gauge a little if theres coolant coming out the top. A temp gun reading above and below thermostat might also tell you what you need to know

 

[used red MN]

Fixing farmer, if you really think his tractor has a problem you should glean some info from my reply. The real question is if the radiator is too full. I am MAKING UP this scenario about the owner and I could be way off. I am guessing he is some guy with a few cows and this one tractor to pamper. Earlier this winter he says oh its getting cold I should check the antifreeze in the tractor. Shoves his tester in there but cant get any to suck in. Better add some without really getting up to look in there with a flashlight. Adds some but really gets more in there than it should have for adequate expansion. Now when it gets up to temp the level of the expanded coolant is right up at the cap and occasionally some pushes out. The tractor has no problem ..heat gauge half way up??.. the radiator is just too full. My story and I may NOT necessarily stick to it. See my other reply about the cold radiator. Second, 3 other major question that need answered how cold was it outside, how long did he run it and how hard was it working.

 

[wore out]

''used red'' made a VERY good point: ''However on a engine like that tractor has where [color=red:9da34b4984]each thermostat controls the flow from half the head, [/color:9da34b4984] operating very long with one of them stuck is not ideal.''

That is VERY true.

I would DEFINITELY suggest replacing the t-stats ASAP, it is time after 20+ years, to be safe.

 

[used red MN]

I hope for the OPs sake that the radiator is just too full. I also hope he is not too embarrassed to come back here and admit that. Also knowing the answers to the other three questions would help any learnings we can pick up from this post.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Used red
I suppose I was making an assumption that he hasnt been adding coolant if its bubbling out. Still the temp gun you could see for sure if thermostats are opening by checking both sides of it and the lower tube shouldnt be cold. It should still be up to 150 degrees or so if 175 is temp at the top and warm to hot if you grab it with your hand regardless of air temp after some work.

 

[wore out]

''Water pump is a very good possibility however it usually is overheating. 2 thermostats and a water pump is what I take with me''


PLEASE elaborate on what 30 series Deere water pump failures you have encountered other than bearing and seal failures.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

30 series is not the only place that style of pump is used. Its
quite similar to the pump on small utility tractors. The last
2510 I cleaned up had a cast impeller just like it with vanes
almost completely disintegrated. they rust/get eaten away by
just being used for 50 years.