Tom P

Member
I came across a 4230 for sale. Seems to be in pretty nice condition all though I have not seen it in person. I have a 148 loader I would use on it. Does anyone have any insight to these tractors, good or bad? And will that loader fit-up easily?

Thanks.
 
I ran one from time to time many years ago. A pretty good tractor overall. Subject to the wear and tear of any tractor made over 42 years ago. Check for engine blow by and leaks from the load shaft seals. Do the remotes leak at the coupler or internally? Clutch for QR or SR solid? Nice crisp shifting if QR or PS?
 
Hopefully the engine has been overhauled since they were a little cold blooded. also the loader will fit fine. There is an extension for the door (if you have a cab) to make the door open wider, if you are a bigger person.
 
We have a 4230 with cab here on the farm. We bought it because I needed a nice cab. Ours is an early one. There was a serial number break and the latter ones have some improvements or updates. Tom
 
They were made from 1973/77 would be good loader tractor as front end is heavier than 20 series.The early ones had the 4020 type seat and they were upgraded to high back in 1975.Were rated around 110H.P. and as stated were a little cold blooded like many of the 30 series.Basically an updated 4020 with nice cab for that era. The A/C would probably be updated but like most older tractors probably needs a little work.148/158/720/725 would be match for that tractor
 
As others have said, they can be cold blooded. I was looking into getting one about a year ago and a friend told me that sometimes he had to use ether even when the temps were in the 70's. So that may or not be an issue depending where you live and what it is going to be used for. Drive it and make sure that it works in all the gears and stays in gear. Check to see if the A/C compressor has the 134 A service valves on it, it may need work but that will tell you that the thing has been converted or not. Check to make sure the heater temp adjustment moves, they can get stuck.
 
(quoted from post at 22:18:38 12/29/19) There is an extension for the door (if you have a cab) to make the door open wider, if you are a bigger person.

matthies
Please explain how the door can be made to open wider on a SGB. Your statement about making door open wider is the 1st time I remember reading about this. I located no alternate door stop(key 45) for SGB in 4230 PC.
Thanks,Jim

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I learned about it 20 years ago when working at the dealer. Took it off a trade in and installed the regular one. Then installed it a few years ago, when installing a 740 loader on a 4430. The 4455 door latch shows a second in the parts listing and thinking that it is it. Unless it was listed with the loader some where. Maybe it isn't needed with a 148 since it doesn't mount as close as a 258-740 models for FWA. chris
 

I suppose i can't see the "forest for the trees" because i can't envision how changing the length of door stop on SGB will help with mounting a FEL.
Thanks for your reply,Jim
 
The door will open wider because the stop #45 is a few inches longer. Trust me, jumping onto the ladder in a hurry and catching your shoulder on the latch of the door, really messes up the day. Cloudy here too sometimes, just overthinking it.
 
The 4230's share the same clutch and transmission as a 4430, they are a good light duty tractor, much like the 4020's.. The early ones did have a starting problem, but with a up-dated engine Over Haul this was corrected, the later ones were much better,,in 1976 ( around 30,000 serial No.) they received many improvements that were very worth while, same as the 4430's. Like any other tractor ,their condition depends on what and how they were used for..
 
That one that needed ether when it was 70 degrees,I wonder if the little fuel lift pump might have been bad on that one? I had a 4040 that I bought new,loved that tractor. It wasn't the easiest starting diesel I ever had,the 3010 would always start when the 4040 wouldn't,but it got to where it started hard no matter what the weather was. I put a new fuel pump on it (the little lift pump on the side of the engine) and that cured the warm starting problem.
 
I was working at a Dealership when the 4230's came out,, Deere had several ideas and possible cures for the hard starting, injector change was one of them and that did not help at all,,, newer piston kits were the answer, and High altitude kits were better yet.
 
I probably wouldn't have thought that 4040 started hard if it hadn't been for the 3010 starting so easy in comparison. Some engines,you just have to wonder. I've got two tractors right now with 354 Perkins' in them. An 1850 Oliver and a White 2-105. The 1850 starts like it's a summer day no matter what the weather,but from November through March,you'd better not shut that White off overnight unless it's close enough to an outlet so you can plug it in.

I know some of the dealers used to say "Never sell a man two of the same model of tractor". They said even though they were supposed to be identical,one would be so much better than the other one that he'd never stop complaining about one of them.
 
We had 3 4430 and the one was impossible to start I swapped the lift pumps and it started fine after that . This 3020 I have was also impossible to start below 35 degrees new injectors fixed that it will now start at 10 below just like my 4020 will I do not use ether .
 
Whoever owned the white first probably used ether on it when it was 70 degrees instead of spending a couple hours to figure out why it was hard to start
 
It starts great when the weather is warm or after it's been running. Just turn the key and let off and it's running,but when the temp dips in to the 30s,best to use the manifold heater. Below 32,plug it in. The original engine in the 1850 was the same way,but I put an engine out of a White 8700 combine in it and it's a whole different thing. Same 354 Perkins,just starts like a summer day no matter what.
 
That?s exactly how my 3020 acted start fine after the first time even cold . I was getting symptoms of bad injectors though it was slobbering out the blow by tube and shooting sparks and excessive smoke out the stack it didn?t matter what you did it that thing was a pill to start if you shot one drop of ether to it she would labor really hard but not try to fire . I put in reman injectors and problem solved . The original injectors must have been not sealing off and filling the cylinders with raw fuel
 
Tim, I have a 4240S that the right hand SCV creeps when being used with a single acting cylinder on a shredder. It slowly raises the shredder until full height. What does it need?

Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 16:10:10 01/02/20) The original injectors must have been not sealing off and filling the cylinders with raw fuel

Yrs back I saw JD tractors from West Texas that had an added manual valve in fuel line that one could open to pump fuel into intake manifold then close valve to help raise compression for easier starting in cold weather. 1010/2010 diesels had hand pump on dash to accomplish the same thing.
 
The poppet valves are leaking, there are 4 of them in your valve, I usually change all 4 when I go through them,, I can help you over the phone or rebuild it here with a bench test.

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