4430 Injection Pump - Turn it up?

I know this has been posted on here before, or something similar to it, but after 45minutes of using the "search" function I just can't find it.

Anyway, a friend of mine bought an open station 4430 synchro that has been beat, abused and is ugly to no end. He plans on parting it out, but first wants to have a little fun at one of the local pulls. He is going to put a different turbo on it, an air-to-air after cooler, and crank the pump up. The thing I was wondering was on the Bosch pumps on these do you have to change the entire torque plate like you do on a Cummins (I warmed one up in a 1994 Dodge) or do they have the screw adjust torque plate, and if it has the screw adjust to you tighten it (turn the screw to the right) or loosen it (turn the screw to the left) for more smoke? Oh I mean power.
 
Take the small plate off the rear of the pump. You will see a screw that requires a flat screw driver. Loosen the jam nut and turn the screw inward for more smoke.
 
Yes,,It's way to easey....when they first came out everybody with a 10 mm wrench was turning them up..kept our shop real busy..we would check one every now-and then, most of them were doing about 190- 210 HP,,they were melting down left and right..
 
I see. Heard it was that easy but wanted to check before we started tinkering with it. Got two turbo's to try an HX35 and an HX40. Using an intercooler out of an FL60. Never had a pre-cleaner so it's going to have a K&N cone under the hood to keep the big chunks out. Straight pipe. Hopefully it lasts one good run. We'll get DQ'd first pull because if they suspect anything they will dyno your tractor on site and if you are more than 10% over stock rated you are done. I want enough smoke there is no question. Plus the extra intercooler piping will give it away I think.
 
Most 4430's came from the factory 10 percent over the stock 125 HP they were rated at, we use to dyno them right off the truck back then, just for grinns..
 
Tim, at 200 horses I don't know how they kept axles in them, I broke more axels on 4430's then I care to remember. It got to where I bought extra one to keep for the next time. This was in 1974, I think the later ones had a larger axel in them but not sure!
 
That is a lie. Mine has over 10000 hrs on it and dynos 220hp. I have never melted the engine.I also have other tractors that I FARM with that are super tuned and I dont have problems. Good example for ya.Local pull decides to have a unlimited weight class for 2wd tractors so I took my 4850 there.I won by putting 20 to 30 feet on most guys. they were mad and thought I was cheating so it went on the dyno the next day at local repair shop.Dyno went to 300hp.I MAXED it out and still had mor rpm to go. I use this tractor to pull my gehl 1275 forage harvester with a kernel proc and 3row corn head and 9 ft hay head. Has 9700 hrs on it and motor has never been inside of. Changed turbo twice and it does leak a little oil on right side of cyl head.Going by what you say that tractor should have melted the pistons by now. IT HAS NOT.
 
First off a hx35 or 40 holset will not clear the water manifold so plan on changing that BTDT. next you have no need for air to air intercooler. You will not make anymore power just going down the track. If you want to turn pump up ther are alot more adjustments you can make then just turning the fuel screw.If you are going to get caught cheating you might as well get caught with a p pump,good charger, and water injection. good luck and make it run good
 
dieseldoc Thanks for the info on the HX turbo's. I have access to a machine shop after hours so I might put the effort into that, time and motivation permitting, but thanks for the heads up. You don't think an air-to-air will help any? We also have a turbo and the liquid intercooler (actually the whole engine with a hole in the side) off a 4630 Deere that we could use. If we pumped cold, like ice cold, water through that think it would help or would that be a misguided effort also? Anything else that is quick and easy to do? Others in the area know we aren't going out there to win, we just want to put on a show with an ugly, ugly tractor. Mismatched rear tires, car tires on front, missing all side tin, big dent in the fuel tank, hasn't sat a day inside since it left the factory etc...
 
That the engines were melting down left to right. not the part about the 10mm wrench. I am not saying you cant ruin an engine by to much fuel but not all fueled up tractors have trouble. The way he stated they were melting down left and right is a bit of exageration. one owner that ruined his engine probably gave all engines that came through his shop a bad name. I would be more likely that those so called engines that were meltinf left and right actually failed from lack of maintenence, operator stupidity, or maybey his shop could not even tell what the problem was so they claimed the farmers turned them up.
 
The bigest problem with an over-fueled engine is when you "actualy" use that extra power to a full extent, such as around here a stock 4430 and a 5-16 plow B-2 or C-2 was a good match-up,,the one's I'm refering to put a 6-16 plow on and ran C-2 all they could, it was not uncommon for them to have the decal burnt off the hood in the turbo area, and of course premature clutch failures, You don't know me and that's okay, I don't take offence from what your saying, I,ve seen and done it all with 4430's, P pumps tieing PTO clutches together for extra drive clutch, makeing Quad ranges into 3 speeds because sychronizers won't stand much over 900 HP., I've fried my share of them,,and what I'm saying is "faster horses need better wagons", and yes we can rattle on about these old gal's and be friends..
 
I would watch trying to pump ice cold water threw it. You risk the chance of water shock on the liners. when ice cold water hits hot liners things can seize up pretty quick. If you want to put on a show turn fuel screw in as far as it will go , completely remove aneroid on top of pump, and get a small propane tank off of a coleman grill wire it to a push button switch and run small propane line into manifold. when you get halfway down the track push the button in.that will put on a heck of a show. You will get thrown out for sure.
 
I do agree with you. Just cause tractor can pull something in road gear does not mean a guy should be doing it. I thought you were like some guys that say if you turn pump up even 1/16th of a turn it will blow up.sorry if I offended you. By the way I use the pto and trans discs tied together on my pulling tractor.
 
No not at all,,when guys 'turn the screw', they tend to go way over the 1/16 of a turn, when we played with them on a dyno a half turn could give 40 HP, a full turn could give 75 HP, and since that didn't seem like much of a 'turn' they would give it 2 for good measure and before they new it they were setting on 200HP and not relizeing it, most 4430's in stock form will turn all the way to about 225 HP, and down to about 85HP ..
 
Oh man. Last night I just could not wait so I went over to the big project and cranked the fuel screw in as far as it would go. Then by aneroid do you mean the square diaphragm looking thing on top that fuels with boost. Fiddled with that a bit and wow, smoke for days. Starts better now too since we couldn't get the extra fuel thing on the side of the pump to work. Dorked around with it for about 25 minutes last night and it started to over heat. I think we have a few more issues in the engine than planned, but hey it didn't run when it was purchased so I think we are doing pretty good. No muffler or straight pipe right now, just belches smoke out the hood. It's cool and LOUD.
 
Ice water in the intercooler from an isolated circuit only.
Run the engine through the normal rad & cooling system.
Still going to need windshield washer fluid injection at the turbo outlet, not inlet. Salvage yard might hand an old working intank high pressure pump that will make 60+ psi.
Run the pump electrical supply from a manifold pressure switch set for 20+ psi.
 
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