445 gauges?

[WrenchTurner]

I have a 445 Utility. Does anyone have the original Stewart Warner numbers off the front of the gauge faces? Mine are pretty much illegible. Pix would be helpful. If anyone has the gauges or panel support I'd be interested. Thanks.

 

[JOCCO]

A member on here I believe Alan K went through this awhile back. Check the older posts.

 

[Alan K]

I have a 445 Utility. Does anyone have the original Stewart Warner numbers off the front of the gauge faces? Mine are pretty much illegible. Pix would be helpful. If anyone has the gauges or panel support I'd be interested. Thanks.

I "rebuilt" mine (one new original fuel gauge) and with gauges from MF combines. The 410 / 510s had some of the same gauges. Some mounted in different locations but other than that they worked. They are getting harder to find. The speedometer / tachometer are the same on the 335 and 445 but the 5 Star tach turns counter clockwise.
I ended up painting the needle on all of them but the fuel gauge. That was a NOS one that matched the aftermarket fuel sender.

 

[WrenchTurner]

I have an NOS fuel gauge but everything else is pretty much garbage. The glass was broken and the tractor was ALWAYS stored outside. Rainwater and gauges do not mix well. While I'd like to see everything working, of course, I'd be happy with oil pressure and temp gauges. The info you gave me will help, thank you very much. Did you find any gaskets or beading, or did you have to make them? Are any of the SW numbers visible without disassembly?

 

[WrenchTurner]

Alan, did you also replace the ignition switch? If so, with what? The only ones I see are near $170.
I noticed that you installed your fuel door spring pin upside down. Was there any particular reason for that? My washer is missing and the spring is broken, at least I guess it is since it's only 1/2" long, so I'll be dealing with that soon.

 

[larry Mi]

If I remember right the ignition switch is the same as a TSC lawn mower. That is where I got mine.

 

[Alan K]

Alan, did you also replace the ignition switch? If so, with what? The only ones I see are near $170.
I noticed that you installed your fuel door spring pin upside down. Was there any particular reason for that? My washer is missing and the spring is broken, at least I guess it is since it's only 1/2" long, so I'll be dealing with that soon.

I just put the pin in that way because that is the way it was lol. Maybe I will turn it around. The switch was still good. I didnt take my panel apart as it was in decent shape. It was a used one I bought from someone. I did use a little clear silicone sealer around the edge just in case. I can see if I can get some numbers off of some of the gauges. The combines did use a mechanical temp gauge and later ones were electric I believe. This one is mechanical. The gaskets for the gauges were cork and some were rubber with a lip on it. I used the rubber ones and sealed them a little more with some black caulk.
If you can find an ignition / light switch for $170 that is cheaper than the ones I have seen. I have seen some around $250, which seems like a LOT.

 

[WrenchTurner]

I'll use a hotwire and alligator clips before I pay $200 for a switch, lol. Realistically, I guess we do what we have to, but since the lights don't work anyhow I have more options. Any switch that fits the hole will work, though I really prefer an original look and function.
Do you still have the old gauges? They'll more likely have the numbers I want, though I'm interested in the others as well. Sounds like we have the same stuff. My temp and oil gauges are mechanical, too.
If you do take the fuel door pin out, please measure, count the coils, etc. Get me any info you can so I can try to match it up. Maybe a pic would help...I dunno.

 

[molinegb]

I always take switches apart and clean. Had bunch of gauge panels from combines with cabs. Sold on Ebay probably 25 years ago. Most out of 510's. Am thinking was another tractor company that also used in late 50's.

 

[Alan K]

I always take switches apart and clean. Had bunch of gauge panels from combines with cabs. Sold on Ebay probably 25 years ago. Most out of 510's. Am thinking was another tractor company that also used in late 50's.

I haven't had good luck taking these apart and keeping them together since you cant "crimp" them. I believe the 333 444 555 Massey Harris tractors used the same key switch.

 

[WrenchTurner]

My panel has an ignition ballast resistor mounted on it. It doesn't look right to me. I can't find the resistor in the parts catalog so I'm gonna guess that it used a ballast wire somewhere, and not a resistor. What does your 445 have?

 

[molinegb]

My panel has an ignition ballast resistor mounted on it. It doesn't look right to me. I can't find the resistor in the parts catalog so I'm gonna guess that it used a ballast wire somewhere, and not a resistor. What does your 445 haNo

No ballast resistor as was built into coil.

 

[Alan K]

My panel has an ignition ballast resistor mounted on it. It doesn't look right to me. I can't find the resistor in the parts catalog so I'm gonna guess that it used a ballast wire somewhere, and not a resistor. What does your 445 have?

Nothing on mine. Just regular wiring.

 

[WrenchTurner]

I'm finding now that the high dollar ignition switches we spoke of earlier have ballast wires attached, so I guess that's the way it was done originally.

 

[Alan K]

I'm finding now that the high dollar ignition switches we spoke of earlier have ballast wires attached, so I guess that's the way it was done originally.

That 6 foot of wire on the original and replacement ignition switches are for the dimming feature for the lights. That is its only function.

 

[molinegb]

Device on dash is a coil to reduce current for light position. Dim/bright. Balllast resistor is cermaic and 20w and normally value 100 ohms -200 .