'45 2N hard start

engineman2

New User
I have a 2N that is hard to start no matter the weather. The tractor is a work tractor that has been used for years until recently when it has become hard to start.

When attempting to start the tractor, the most that can be gotten out of it is a "put" after cranking while holding the choke fully closed for about 3-5 seconds and then opening it while continuing cranking.

Occasionally the starter will not disengage on that first "put" and this is when the tractor can finally be brought to life. Once running it runs quite well under load but full throttle with no load results in frequent backfires.

The carburetor was taken apart and cleaned and the distributor rebuilt and timing set. I have drained the gas (which was clean, I put it in another vehicle) and put in fresh fuel along with cleaning the lines and all three fuel screens (which were already clean as far as I could see). The coil tests good along with the condenser and ignition switch. When the spark plugs are pulled and checked for spark bright sparks erupt between the electrodes. Compression is also good, around 100 PSI for all cylinders. I have also adjusted the valve clearances.

My only thought rests with the distributor. When installed, the rotor has quite a lot of play before the teeth engage with the slots in the camshaft. After nearly a decade as a mechanic, the amount of play present here seems extreme. My concern is that this play may be the cause of my poor operation and hard start as it may throw off the timing. I would like to get some opinions as to other causes for the problem and the exact amount of play I should expect from the distributor rotor as this is the only 2N I've ever worked with.
 
EM2.........ennytime you have starting issues, change yer FLOODED sparkies. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. Don't throw yer FLOODED sparkies away, just clean'n'dry them, one-atta-time in HOT runnin' engine. (and save'um fer the NEXT time and there will be a NEXT time) You do know the weird 4-nipple dizzy was designed to be removed from the engine to change/adjust the points (0.015) don't you? Just un-snapple the capple and remove 2-bolts and walk to the kitchen table and do yer points. (0.015) Installation is a reversal of the removal ...except... finger start the 2-bolts and install the rotor. Now rotate the OFF-SET drive tang until the OFF-SET tang lines up with the OFF-SET drive slot. Now slide the dizzy on the 2-bolts and re-tighten the 2-bolts. Now re-snapple yer capple and you shuld be good to go. Me? Based upon yer comments, I'd stick the corner of $1-bill between the points and PULL. This shuld polish enny invisible corrosion from between the points and you shuld be good-to-go.......HTH, Dell yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
I had noted that the bushings in the distributor were worn and I had a set on order. They came in and I installed them and that removed the slop entirely from the distributor shaft. So far the tractor has been starting easily ever since. Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it.
 
I just bought a non-running 2n. It had a poorly done 12volt conversion. Once I fixed the wiring, cleaned out the fuel system and confirmed spark at each plug, it still would not start. In desperation, I shorted the resistor with an alligator clip wire from radio shack, and Vroom!. That thing lit up like right NOW!.

Points are cheaper than starters and batteries, I am thinking of adding a 20 second electronic timer relay to short that resistor for the first 20 seconds of every start up.

On the coldest starts the shorted resistor really makes it start in a blink of an eye.

Any comments?
 
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