45 B

[soldiertom]

When the temp drops to way cold, there is enough condensation in the 1st reduction gear cover to prevent the pulley from turning because it freezes. I see no way to drain the oil from the cover other than taking off the pulley and then cracking open the case letting the oil out. Question is, could a body drill into the cover, tap it and put a pipe plug in it?

 

[Mountain J]

I have an A and that's what I did to mine when I had it apart I drilled and tap a hole in the bottom and top for a plug according to people on this site JMO but I am sure the experts will chime in

 

[FBH44]

Are you sure it's condensation, or is the tractor stored outside in weather? I think tractors should not spend one night outside. I've done it, a lot, but knew it wasnn't the right thing.

 

[soldiertom]

No sir, I have it in a barn out of the weather, but it is still COOOOOOOLD. As the weather got colder, I could hear it in the case as I rolled it around. It has totally locked up before as the temps fell lower. I was just worried it would freeze up and crack that casting, not a good thing I'd bet.
Walk in peace
Tom

 

[soldiertom]

Ya know, I hadn't thought about drilling one for the top to put the oil back in, silly me. Do you recall the sizes of the holes you used? I was thinking about a half inch or so for the drain; I suppose it wouldn't need a great big fill hole for just a half quart of oil, just big enough to get a funnel into.
Walk in peace
Tom

 

[Mountain J]

I used a half inch with metric fine tread top and bottom, cause I had some of them new plugs with the oring to seal, that way I figured I wouldn't ever bugger something up from overtightning, now I did have to find a small enough funnel to fill it but I only drain and refill at an oil change and I only put a quart in there so I will just put up with the hassel for now

 

[BushogPapa]

I can tell you that if that barn is closed and has Dairy cattle, condensation can be as bad as Rain..

How does the Transmission oil look..?
If there is water freezing in the 1st Reduction, there MUST be water in the Transmission, too..

Ron.

 

[coonie minnie]

What does your engine crankcase oil look like?

Seems to me that it's engine oil in the 1st reduction gear cover, and not trans fluid. It is supposed to drain with the crankcase.

Later as and bs had a seperate plug to drain any residuals out of the 1st reduction cover.

 

[soldiertom]

No cattle, sir, just storage. The Trans oil was drained when I got it in the summer, as well as the engine oil. The reduction gear cover is the cast iron one and there is not a hole to drain into the engine oil. The book says to crack the seal on the cover, catch the oil, replace it with a half quart of new 30 wt after putting in a new seal, etc. Im convinced it is condensation freezing up. Today it is frozen again, cant turn the pulley.
Walk in peace

 

[BushogPapa]

If it were mine, I would drill the drain hole, Flush the housing after I tapped the hole for a plug..and replace the oil.
Would not need to be very large..1/8" Pipe or 1/4" Pipe

Most all 1st reduction drain holes are Horizontal.

Look at a couple and place the hole near the same place..
I would get this done asap...!

Ron.

 

[Lee B]

Refiling it really isn't necessary on letter series tractors as the slung oil from the right crank bearing does this for you automatically. Any excess then rides up the reduction gear to be returned to the engine via the thumb sized hole under the main bearing and clutch pulley. They didn't even put in a drain hole I'll remind you, but in your case it's sorely needed and I did put one in mine too since I found a puddle of water in there when I had mine off. Won't freeze and crack anything as there is no containment on the ice at the water/oil interface, the expanding ice will flow upwards into the oil long before cracking the case from sideways pressure. But you can't really use it with an ice chunk in there so it does have to go just the same.

Drilling and tapping a top hole on the tractor would pollute the case with filings, bottom hole not so much.

Your book info quite perplexing to me. By seal I take it they meant gasket instead? Which leaves me wondering how does one replace that gasket at cracked open dimensions? I had to remove the clutch and cover entirely but maybe I missed something they have a higher knowledge of? So then I also wonder how a quart of new oil is politely just supposed to stay in there while you take your time to bolt it back on? And you put that polite oil in where exactly? Strange book advise all around there. A JD publication?