46 Farmall H clutch problem

[montidale]

My in-laws have an H with a woods mower under it that we have been using for probably 40 years now. Over that time we have never done any work
on the clutch assembly. Now when we try to release the clutch the pedal goes all the way down but the clutch wont release or just barely releases I
have adjusted the clutch rod length as far as it will go and the clutch barely releases. Im guessing it must be something inside the clutch housing. I
plan on splitting the tractor but Im not quite sure what Im looking for. Does anybody have an idea what the problem might be?

 

[redforlife]

I don't think you have to split the tractor to work on the clutch. But you do need to remove the hydraulic pump (if so equiped) to get to the clutch through its location. And just so you know, the shaft that drives the pump has to be sitting just right in rotation to lower the pump down. Shaft end slots have to be up and down and not horizontal. I was able to take all clutch parts minus the flywheel out through this hole on my M anyways.

As far as what's wrong, it's likely the clutch plate has been worn down to needing replaced. You can check other things out on your way to removing it. Adjusting that exterior rod length is basically all that you can do from the outside.

If rod length is adjusted correctly, you should have about an inch of free travel where the pedal itself hits the platform base. IF more than that, then the clutch rod is not adjusted correctly.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

40 years of running a mower and never being touched, I would say the clutch is simply worn out.

Pressure plate fingers could be worn off. Throwout bearing could be toast. Doesn't matter. If you go in you may as well put the kit in. Pilot bearing. Clutch disc. Pressure plate. Throwout bearing. Cost is between $200 and $300 depending on where you source it from.

 

[Michael Soldan]

You do not have to split an H to do clutch work. It can be done through the belly pan. The H clutch fingers should have 3/8ths space , the important thing is that all three clutch fingers are adjusted exactly the same. This may be all it takes to get you going.

 

[used red MN]

RFL covered a bit of stuff, yes the clutch can be pulled by removing the belly pump. And I believe if needed the flywheel will come out of the H, pretty sure that on an M the tractor has to be split to pull the flywheel. On an H the pump drive will slip out before removing the pump.
As for what you might find. Increasing pedal stroke to release usually means the throw out bearing is bad and has maybe worn down the clutch fingers. Does it feel like a roughness is being transmitted to the pedal when you push it down when running? Usually when the plate friction lining wears the free play get less and a small bit of pressure on the pedal to release it will start it slipping. If you purchase a replacement clutch do not adjust the pressure plate release lever height, they will be preset.

 

[DeltaRed]

I would go ahead and split it. Then you can do the flywheel,the starter ring gear probally needs replaceing,too. Then do the pilot bearing as well as the throw out bearing.And anything else that needs attention.Really not that hard. Just beware of the hidden bolt inside behind the starter.Yes you must remove the starter. Dont ask how I know that...

 

[the tractor vet]

it's time for a clutch. may i also recommend pulling the fly wheel and have it refaced . For what you do with it just and old fashioned clutch fiber disc will be fine . Now as to the flywheel coming out the hole where the belly pump is i am not sure as i have never done them that way for me doing the split is faster and easier for me with out wrestling the hyd. pump by myself.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I don't care if you can get the flywheel out without splitting, I would not want to lift it to put it back in that way very bad.

 

[rustred]

once you get it split the problem will be very obvious. the clutch disc lining will be worn out more so on one side. like right into the rivets. but iam not sure why you wouldnt say when it engaged the tractor wont move. as that the more logical saying to a true fact. and your a beginner so split the tractor so you have the ease of working on that heavy stuff. way easier. it takes less than an hr to split it. so why stand upside down and risk pinched fingers or broken ones. flywheel will need attention i am sure.

 

[montidale]

Well thanks everyone for all the insight. We welded up a splitting stand and put casters on it We will have to see how that works. Were still waiting on the weather to break before we start the project. It still hasnt hit 50 here yet. Sounds like the weather is finally going to get warm this weekend. So we can move some equipment around and get back to the mower tractor. I will post here what we find when we tear it apart.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

What "heavy stuff?" The only heavy stuff you'd have to deal with are the halves of the tractor if you split it.

Working up through the belly hole, there's nothing a normal healthy average person can't bench press.

You are far far far more at risk of injury working with a 2000+lb engine teetering on a narrow front end than you are with any piece that comes out of the belly hole, including the flywheel.

Do it whichever way you feel is easier for you, but don't wag your finger and claim that one way is fraught with peril and danger. It is simply not the case. It is ALL personal preference.

 

[Baelee05]

You dont have to split it to get at the clutch but it is ten times easier. An H is a snap to split and it is much easier to see what you are doing. Like Vet said I dont know if the flywheel will come out through the belly pump hole but it is possible. Another good reason to split it. Take the flywheel to a machinist that knows what they are doing and have it surfaced.