Ford 821 Clutch Problem

[Ford 821 Mutt]

I have a Ford 821 (mutt no backhoe replace with 3pt hitch). The clutch needed to be replaced so I purchased a new 10" clutch system plus bushings, release fork plus shaft, bearing hub and springs. In removing the release shaft the clutch lever arm at connects to the pedal was welded to the shaft and "clocked" to a lower position.

Since I replaced all the old parts with the new and used the template to set the bolts on the clutch fingers the adjustment is max out and can barely shift in gear. I noticed that when I mounted the clutch and pressure plate that after torquing it down, the fingers retracted deeper than what I thought was correct. This would cause the adjustment to be at the max (see picture). It would seem that the 10" disk should sit in a "pocket" on the flywheel or some kind of "stand-off" shims for the pressure plate. I put my phone in the starter mounting hole and you can see that the bearing is well down the support with the peddle up and at the max adjustment.

Thanks for any help or insight in solving this issue.

Ford 821 Mutt

 

[Sean in PA]

can barely shift in gear.

What does that mean? If you are trying to shift "on-the-fly" while the tractor is already moving, and it is grinding, that is expected. You are supposed to come to a complete stop when you shift from one gear to another, and start off from a dead stop in whatever gear that you need to run in. Some folks with a lot of experience can feather the clutch and the throttle and get them to shift from one gear to another without coming to a complete stop, but that is not how they were designed to be run.

 

[Ford 821 Mutt]

As you know, you can not start the tractor in gear. Once the tractor is started, depress the pedal the clutch does not disengage completely. There is no shifting while moving. The same thing for the PTO, hard to engage because the clutch does not completely disengage.

 

[Sean in PA]

OK, thanks for the further explanation. It sounds like you need replacement parts for what was welded.

 

[Ford 821 Mutt]

Thanks for your input. Yes, I replaced the parts that were welded with new parts and now it does not work. The old pressure plate did not have adjustable bolts (I believe), where the the new replacement clutch did. I keep going back to the flywheel or pressure plate .....some thing is different.

 

[Ford 821 Mutt]

I have done more research and the tractor maybe considered an early version model per “Tractor Data”. They state that 821 were manufactured from 1957 to 1962. The tractor serial number puts it early in 1958. There were several part changes during the history of the 821. Does anyone have information or documentation on what the possible flywheel thickness the early 821 had? Or is there a possible application that determines which flywheel they choose? There was two thickness use 1 ¾” and or 3 ¾”.

 

[Sean in PA]

There were different flywheels depending on whether it had a diesel or gas engine. There were also different part numbers depending on which clutch it had, and another one if it had the S-O-S transmission. This is what the parts site says now, but I would take it with a grain of salt as the recently revamped the parts site and it a lot of information was dropped. I would go with an older copy of a parts book to be sure. The thicknesses aren't listed, but I would imagine that the thicker one was use on the diesel engines to increase the torque, and then later they switched to the thicker one for all

Gas engines Prior to Serial Number 14257:
EAE6375B - 9" Single Clutch
B7P6375B - 10" single clutch
EAF6375D - 9" double clutch

Gas engines After Serial Number 14256 and all diesel engines:
311244 - 10" single clutch
311428 - 9" double clutch

All S-O-S transmissions regardless of serial number or fuel type:
C0NN6375D

The early ones also had coarse splines on the transmission output shaft and on the pinion gear in the differential, and the later ones had fine splines. It looks like the serial number where the spline count changed was 54166.