460 repair

[WPConway]

hello first time user,
working on a 1964 460 utility did an inframe replacement of connecting rod bearings and main bearings after reassembly will not start has spark, good compression, and fuel to carb seems like plugs are dry like they might not be getting fuel any help would be appreciated?

 

[Janicholson]

With your hand over the carburetor intake, crank it for 5 seconds (safely in neutral and blocked) If there is fuel on your hand, it indicates the
fuel is getting to the intake. suction should be pretty solid. Jim

 

[used red MN]

Hello WP welcome to YT! It ran before you pulled it
apart meaning you know the tractor history and that it
ran previously? While you have the hose off the intake
of the carb make sure the choke plate is completely
closing when the knob is pulled out. How are you
determining the fuel is getting to the carb? If by
removing or loosening the fuel line at the carb that is
only the first step. Will it come out of the drain plug on
the bottom of the carb? Should run out of there at
nearly the rate of bathroom relief after 3 beers. The
float needle valve can stick closed. Happened to my
uncles 715 combine prior to last harvest, a little love
tap with a hammer and I had him back in business.
Also the fitting that the fuel line screws into where it
attaches to the carb has a screen in it, not to likely to
be 100 percent plugged, but can happen.

 

[redforlife]

Sounds like float needle in carb stuck
shut. Open carb drain plug, and as
said, tap on outside of carb with a
screw driver handle or something as
such, until you got fuel flow out
bottom of carb.
This is common problem, especially if
it has sat for awhile. And likely your
problem.

 

[Dave BN]

Did you turn the gas back on at the sediment bowl? Don't mean to be
insulting but I've done that. Is their gas in the tank? I've done that
too. Easy to miss the simple things after doing something major.
Dave

 

[caterpillar guy]

If you had the head off did you reset the valve clearance if not they might be tight enough they don't open or wide enough they 't don't open. Did the wires get put on in time and correct direction? Lots of dids and didn'ts.

 

[WPConway]

(quoted from post at 20:06:31 04/02/22) hello first time user.
Thanks for all the help guys so i did not remove heads , touch camshaft, all i did was replace connecting rod bearings and main bearings as i removed old bearings replaced with new tractor had been running find just was hearing a knock in lower end . old bearings were in pretty rough shape but crank was good but still at no start today it is firing but backfiring i am pulling my hair out lol . is there any way i could have affected timing by doing this ? oil pump drive? another though while reassembling i turned the crank with a connecting rod disconnected if i rotated it enough could that cause that piston to be off timing with valve positioning?

This post was edited by WPConway on 04/03/2022 at 11:20 am.

 

[Janicholson]

The oil pump drive does affect timing. The distributor is driven by the oil pump gear. If it is put in at a different position, it will change
the timing. Jim

 

[WPConway]

(quoted from post at 12:30:01 04/03/22) The oil pump drive does affect timing. The distributor is driven by the oil pump gear. If it is put in at a different position, it will change
the timing. Jim

ok thanks jim i believe there lies the problem . do I need to drop pan again and adjust gear or is there another way to retime it

 

[Janicholson]

It is possible to rotate the distributor to time it, but it will not be in the normal position. I can't tell you how far to rotate it. Position
#1 piston at TDC compression (radiator end of engine) by putting a piece of cotton ball in the spark plug hole. jack up one side of the rear so a
tire is off the ground. Put it in 5th gear TA handle ahead. rotate the tire forward until the cotton just blows out, Then watch for the TDC
timing mark to align with the pointer(IIRC) it will be the last make in the series. That should allow the points to open just at that point with
the rotor pointing to a cap hole that goes to #1 cylinder. Jim

 

[rustred]

first no such thing as a 1964 460. the big thing is have u verified it is timed correctly. that is the big deal. get number one cyl. on
compression at TDC to the factory timing spec. make sure rotor is pointing to number 1 cyl. then rotate the distributor opposite of regular rotation with key on. as soon as it sparks
tighten the distributor down it is statically timed to start like it came out of the factory. you can also do this by putting a piece of
paper between the points with key off, and rotate the dist the same direction and as soon as the paper will pull out it is timed correctly.i
have done many an engine this way and they start just as if you just turned the key off . you must verify fuel is
in carb and timing is correct and it will start same as if you just turned the key off.

 

[pete 23]

Sounds like you had oil pump out and now distributor is out of time like previous posters indicated. You can install the distributor where ever it will fit and still be able to hook tachometer cable with engine at number one top dead center. But, you very well may have to pull all wires from cap and go by where the rotor is pointing, ignoring the numbers on distributor cap. This is done with points just starting to open when distributor shaft is turning in in normal direction of rotation..

However, doing it this way will confuse everyone who ever works on it again. I would drop pan and oil pump and put it to factory specs like it originally was.

 

[WPConway]

(quoted from post at 16:12:44 04/03/22) first no such thing as a 1964 460. the big thing is have u verified it is timed correctly. that is the big deal. get number one cyl. on
compression at TDC to the factory timing spec. make sure rotor is pointing to number 1 cyl. then rotate the distributor opposite of regular rotation with key on. as soon as it sparks
tighten the distributor down it is statically timed to start like it came out of the factory. you can also do this by putting a piece of
paper between the points with key off, and rotate the dist the same direction and as soon as the paper will pull out it is timed correctly.i
have done many an engine this way and they start just as if you just turned the key off . you must verify fuel is
in carb and timing is correct and it will start same as if you just turned the key off.

yep you are right sorry i think its a 63 serial # 5664.. thank you for the direction will try that in the morning

 

[WPConway]

yes had to remove oil pump to remove pan when i removed pump shaft dropped out of oil pump housing replaced it but not until i had rotated crank duh created more problems for myself lol

 

[WPConway]

(quoted from post at 20:06:31 04/02/22) hello first time user,
working on a 1964 460 utility did an inframe replacement of connecting rod bearings and main bearings after reassembly will not start has spark, good compression, and fuel to carb seems like plugs are dry like they might not be getting fuel any help would be appreciated?

Hello
Just wanted to thank you all for the direction and advice on the 460 ended up dropping the pan and oil pump again lined up oil pump gearing with correct positioning on distributor. i was 180 degrees off reassembled and off to the field thanks again guys

 

[Janicholson]

You are welcome. hidden things on the other end of a stick can make repeated efforts necessary. Been there. Jim