swindave

Member
whats the pros and cons of the 4630 deere tracors?
, any changes thru the years? or not
they seem to be cheaper then 4430s, what is the reason for that?

i know they have some age on them now, but were they a good tractor in their day?

thanks for your help
 
I use two of them. 1000 only pto is a draw back for most people. The later ones are better they have a better fuel system. The biggest problem is the 4 bolt flywheel
 
(quoted from post at 07:19:13 02/16/21) whats the pros and cons of the 4630 deere tracors?
, any changes thru the years? or not
they seem to be cheaper then 4430s, what is the reason for that?

i know they have some age on them now, but were they a good tractor in their day?

thanks for your help

"they seem to be cheaper then 4430s, what is the reason for that?"

I agree with "rock" that the 1000 RPM-only PTO may be the reason, the dual PTO of the 4430 iis nice on a "utility" or "hay making" tractor.

As to the flywheel issue, I have been around quite a few of them that were "worked hard and put away wet" for thousands of hours of heavy tillage use with no flywheel bolt issues.

The ONE failure I've seen was in a used tractor a friend bought at auction that had a recent (and perhaps a bit shoddy) overhaul.

When working on them it's certainly "good practice" to have the mating surfaces perfectly "clean" and use new flywheel bolts, and accurately torque them.
 
Sorry I had to go I will finish. The 4 bolt problem is only a factor with shock loads and is the worst with quad and synchro trans . Tub grinders, dozer work,and the famous dup the clutch and that will get me unstuck.
 
My Grandpa bought a new one in 1974, a powershift with FWA, and it has been our main tillage tractor ever since, just turned 6300 hrs. We never had any big issues with this tractor, it has been a very good workhorse for our family all these years.
 
A picture of our 4630.
cvphoto77828.jpg
 
We bought one new in 76, used it for the main big tractor till we got an 8630 in 80,,it was a very good tractor, and yes we did shear the flywheel bolts once,, but it was turned up a bit too far, and was pulling 3 - 300 bushel loaded wagons home in hill country,,and my little brother did not show it any mercy on the way home... I replace the flywheel with a six bolt one and drilled and taped 2 more holes, they have a much stronger transmission than a 4430,, bigger gears and sychronizers...heaver final drives and rock shaft..
 
4630 is my favorite looking sg cabbed tractor.
Longer wheelbase with the 4440 size hood. Very strong.

No need for a 540rpm pto on a tractor that big, because all implements matched to its size can be set for 1000 rpm pto. 1000 is much nicer for telescopic cv joints because less torque.

If you need to make hay with a small baler or something, just run 1000rpm pto at 1200 rpm. Fuel usage will be much better, tractor will run quieter. You will only need to put a wooden block under foot throttle so not to stomp it ever or you may destroy your baler....

very good successor to the 4620. Mostly same transmission.
 
The flywheel problem also comes when someone puts a screwdriver to the pump. I have seen two 4630s shear the flywheel bolts. Both of them were putting out over 200 horses. The block was wrecked in on of them when a flywheel bolt stuck out after it broke and caught the block by the rear bearing. It belonged to my brother in law. The other one belonged to my neighbor who bragged about how much horsepower his 4630 had.
 
Yes, I beleive the 4630 these days is basically in a no man's land, that is why you see the resale price below the 4430 and the 4230 in many instances. Keep in mind the 4030 is not thought of very highly, the 4230 is 'kinda average" and the 4430 is a pretty highly regarded tractor, hence the very solid resale value for them.
 
A couple of years ago I was looking to upgrade my snow blowing tractor from an open station one to one with a SG cab. I was thinking about upsizing from a 72" blower to a larger double auger one that would handle the big drifts better. I started out with a 4230 or possibly a 4430 in mind, and one thing I constantly heard was how cold blooded the 30 series tractors were for starting. One friend told me of a 4230 that would need an ether assist to start when the temp dropped to 70 degrees.

As it turned out, because I could not find either of those tractors within a couple hundred miles of me at the time, I wound up buying a 4630. It's been a good tractor so far and the most pleasant surprise is how well it starts when it gets cold. It will start without being plugged in and without ether down to 30 to 35 degrees. Plugged in, it has always started in sub zero weather. So in this case, the legend of the cold blooded 30 series doesn't hold up. I thought the 1000 rpm PTO would be an issue, but the 1080 Farm King blower I got is built to be 1000 rpm anyway. For a big tractor, it turns very tight, which surprised me.

The extra HP comes in handy now and then as well.
 
The same reason a 4455 will outsell a 4555/4755[1000 PTO only].4630/4640/4650 are a good buy as I have seen a few nice ones under $20K.
 
There were quite a number of 4030's sold around here. To my knowledge the biggest disappointment was thinking that the 4030 was one up from the 4020. The correct thinking that it was one up from the 3020. The 4030 used a 329 CI engine and was rated at 80 PTO HP. The 4020 used a 404 CI engine and was rated at 90 plus PTO HP depending on transmission. I won't say that the 4230 was a terrific tractor but those used to a 4020 synchro tend to forget there is more parasitic load on a 4230 when a wet clutch, partial power shift, and AC if cab equipped is factored in. There were not many 4630's around here is for the time they were on the large side for the market.
 
Thats a nice looking 4630. Was that FWD any use?? We dont have it anymore but we had a 4640 that I wish I could get back.
 
The most likely reason this 30 series starts in cold is because the problem has been corrected. All JD engines that were prone to be hard cold
starters need to have the valve recession reduced in the cylinder head to raise cranking compression. The higher compression ring on factory
replacement piston helps but, if you want them top start better than they ever did brand new, put valve seats in head to reduce valve recession
to shallow them to that end of specification which they never were new. Do not get to shallow / out of spec as too close pistons can hit valves.
A 4230 was a double whammy for hard starting not only low compression but injection pump fuel delivery at cranking RPM were also a factor.
Leaking delivery vales and worn pumps caused low fuel delivery at cranking RPM. DW
 
Yes it does come in handy once in awhile. Still works good. Don't use it very often, but when needed, it is nice. Always heard they were troublesome, but it always worked for us.
 
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