464 won’t run

[Ram1]

I have been helping my son in law on his international 464 tractor that won’t run. We installed new points and rotor and plugs. Have good spark. Next I pulled off the carburetor and found it was in bad shape. (See attached photo) I cleans it and installed new gaskets, float was good.

Using starting spray the tractor will fire and run for few seconds but acts like no gas is getting into the carb. Fuel pump working ok and have fresh fuel at carb. My question is how does the fuel shutoff solenoid work, And can it be bypassed? I ordered a parts kit for it using the tag but the new float was too small, used old one.

 

[rustred]

I have been helping my son in law on his international 464 tractor that won’t run. We installed new points and rotor and plugs. Have good spark. Next I pulled off the carburetor and found it was in bad shape. (See attached photo) I cleans it and installed new gaskets, float was good.

Using starting spray the tractor will fire and run for few seconds but acts like no gas is getting into the carb. Fuel pump working ok and have fresh fuel at carb. My question is how does the fuel shutoff solenoid work, And can it be bypassed? I ordered a parts kit for it using the tag but the new float was too small, used old one.

That carb is still a mess it needs to be soaked overnight in gunk and agitated every so often. Them passages probably still plugged. Everything needs to be spotless. And that tar on the float only adds weight to it.

 

[Ram1]

Thanks I will soak it.

 

[wwoodrow]

I disassemble , remove the float, and then boil everything EXCEPT the float in white vinegar for 30 minutes. Then take a wire from wire brush and poke through every tiny hole in the carb being sure not to miss any. Soak it in a baking soda solution, rinse it and then dry thoroughly with compressed air. Blow air through all orifices . Others may have easier methods. Just curious, would it start with choke partially closed ? If so it points towards a clogged carb passage.

 

[wwoodrow]

As far as the fuel shutoff solenoid. I removed the one in my 424 and replaced with a mechanical adjuster. Works great.

 

[Ram1]

What type of adjuster did you use and where did you purchase it ?

 

[Ram1]

I ran wire through all of the ports and blew out everything,and no it would not start with choke or not. No fuel smell or excess coming out of carb.

 

[Jim.ME]

What type of adjuster did you use and where did you purchase it ?

PartsASAP/YT may have them, I didn't spot one that I can say fits without your carburetor numbers. You could call them.

I have gotten them from McDonald Carburetor and Ignition for other tractor carbs. Call with your carb numbers and he will fix you up with the parts.

 

[rustred]

I disassemble , remove the float, and then boil everything EXCEPT the float in white vinegar for 30 minutes. Then take a wire from wire brush and poke through every tiny hole in the carb being sure not to miss any. Soak it in a baking soda solution, rinse it and then dry thoroughly with compressed air. Blow air through all orifices . Others may have easier methods. Just curious, would it start with choke partially closed ? If so it points towards a clogged carb passage.

Well I guess I am to throw my gunk carb cleaning stuff out which have been using for like 50 years. Which does an excellent job of dissolving carbon in the carb. Before this stuff was environmentally friendly that older stuff would burn your skin. There was no poking passages either. Just soak then rinse with water and blow out passages. Carb looked like a new carb when done. That was standard procedure in dealers shops. Now being told the home concoctions are the way to go. I don’t think so. That’s why many have a carb problem cause they are never cleaned properly. But I’ll still use my gunk the industry approved method. Thank you.

 

[wwoodrow]

What type of adjuster did you use and where did you purchase it ?

Got it 20 years ago from a source and price I cannot remember. I am sure that there are many here who have more expertise than I who could find one for you if you provide the model number of your carb. As far as type, it simply threaded into same opening that the solenoid screwed into I believe.

 

[Jim.ME]

What type of adjuster did you use and where did you purchase it ?

Is the whole ID tag in place? If so, what are the numbers on it.

The solenoid closes the main load jet opening when power is removed. Those were intended to stop fuel from being pulled in and causing a hot engine from "dieseling" or run-on when the switch is turned off. They do not stop fuel flow to the carb, only through the main load jet. A manual adjuster is a base that screws into the same threads as the solenoid used and has an adjustable needle for adjusting gas flow under load.

 

[wwoodrow]

I ran wire through all of the ports and blew out everything,and no it would not start with choke or not. No fuel smell or excess coming out of carb.

Just assuming its a Marvel Schebler TSX type . Only 2 or 3 were used on that tractor I think ???? Someone may know if the same adjustor would fit all models possibly. Those carbs have many similarities

 

[Ram1]

Here is the carb number tag.

 

[Ram1]

Ok, I’m confused, the solenoid is either open or closed so there would be no adjustment for the main jet flow under load with the solenoid so if you put a Manuel valve in there, would you open it 100% and let the main jet control the fuel flow?

 

[used red MN]

Yes, the high speed fuel mixture relies on the correct preset size of the main jet. Just Incas you didn’t have it out or know it is there, in stock
form the carb has a fine small strainer on the fitting that screws into the carb where the fuel line attaches. If the carb is off and apart remove the float and needle an blow on the inlet fitting with your mouth. If it is open air should blow through easily. If the carb is on pull the carb drain and crank the engine and see what the flow is like.

 

[Jim.ME]

The orifice in the main jet controls the maximum flow. The needle (in either the solenoid or the manual adjustable needle) fine tunes the flow.

Not all of those solenoids are identical. Some of those type solenoids are adjustable, some are not, they open a fixed amount based on the carburetor and load jet. Some can be modified to run if the solenoid fails, some can't be. Does your solenoid have a small screw or a thumb screw on the opposite end from the part in the carb? If so, that is used to adjust the needle opening. Post pictures of your solenoid. showing the end opposite the threaded part.

The replacement adjustable jet needle, that is made to replace the solenoid, gets adjusted just like any manual adjustable load jet for performance under load.

YT may have the parts if you call them with the TSX number.

I have replaced several solenoids on John Deeres with the manual adjusters from McDonald's. I called and gave him the TSX number from the tag. He had the adjuster and gasket for it; the main jet itself does not get changed. He will have carb kits if you need one of those as well.

 

[Ram1]

Thank you, I will have go to my Son in laws house to take pictures and remove the carburetor for further cleaning and testing. I will post what I find.
Thanks again everyone for your input.

 

[wwoodrow]

Well I guess I am to throw my gunk carb cleaning stuff out which have been using for like 50 years. Which does an excellent job of dissolving carbon in the carb. Before this stuff was environmentally friendly that older stuff would burn your skin. There was no poking passages either. Just soak then rinse with water and blow out passages. Carb looked like a new carb when done. That was standard procedure in dealers shops. Now being told the home concoctions are the way to go. I don’t think so. That’s why many have a carb problem cause they are never cleaned properly. But I’ll still use my gunk the industry approved method. Thank you.

No, don't throw it out. Send it to me and I'll use it instead.

 

[Ram1]

Here is a picture of the solenoid, I see no numbers of manufacturers name or ant adjustments.

 

[Jim.ME]

Here is a picture of the solenoid, I see no numbers of manufacturers name or ant adjustments.

You have one of the non-adjustable ones. PartsASAP/YT has one, link below.

Carburetor solenoid

Have you tested this solenoid? Ground the body of it and apply power to the wire. You should see the needle inside it move in and out as power is applied and removed. If it doesn't it needs to be replaced. My choice has been to convert to the mechanical adjuster for the main jet (for about $50.) If you want to go that way you would need to call YT to see if they have it for your carb. You should get the new gasket for it as well.