47 9n 3 point doing funny stuff

[Caryc]

As far as you blowing the seals out, I believe that's what the relief valve is for.

 

[Vachek]

Man!! This is exactly my problem i think! Like JMOR also said.

That thing needs turned in a little bit. Just like the guy in the video
said, when i was trying to lift the weight of the mower it was
pulling on that draft control piece inside the spring and not letting
it lift!



Now im sure that the piston and cylinder need replaced, because
by its self with no weight it would stay up for a month. But when i
tried to hang the mower off it while it was in the air it just leaked
down from the cylinder under the top lid.



I may still go ahead and order the rebuild kit for the pump in the
belly since its already open.



Thank you so much for this video link hobo!! Im gonna go out to
the garage and start pre-soaking that thing with some penetrant!



I cant thank you enough!! All of you fine folks!

 

[Dave G9N]

(quoted from post at 18:35:03 09/03/23)
As far as you blowing the seals out, I believe that's what the relief valve is for.

Yes, but it only protects gaskets that are in reasonable condition and when the parts are torqued down properly. My gasket blew out next to the hole where the fluid enters the cylinder. There is a lighter grey pattern on the cast iron seal surface on the lift cylinder next to the fluid inlet/exit hole that looks like oil had been leaking between the gasket and cylinder for some time before it let go.

 

[Vachek]

So im looking at the bottom of this top lid today and the bar that
the lift arms run thru under the lid says 9N-545-B anyone know
if that would help me decipher a date?

 

[HFJ]

look at the forward faces of the rear axle trumpets. if yours are from 47, you should see the casting dates.

 

[Vachek]

Thank you for the info! Still waiting on my piston and sleeve to show up. Been soaking the draft arm in used motor oil for about 3 days now to try to get that link inside the spring to loosen up and see if i can get it adjusted when i put everything back together.
Not sure if anyone else has ever done such a thing but my grandpa used to have like a 30 gallon drum about 1/2 way filled with used oil that he used to soak all kinds of stuff in. He swore the best penetrating oil is oil. Giver a dunk fer a couple days, shell come apart for ya

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 10:11:29 09/06/23) Thank you for the info! Still waiting on my piston and sleeve to show up. Been soaking the draft arm in used motor oil for about 3 days now to try to get that link inside the spring to loosen up and see if i can get it adjusted when i put everything back together.
Not sure if anyone else has ever done such a thing but my grandpa used to have like a 30 gallon drum about 1/2 way filled with used oil that he used to soak all kinds of stuff in. He swore the best penetrating oil is oil. Giver a dunk fer a couple days, shell come apart for ya

Most people now say that they use transmission fluid instead of oil for such as you describe.

 

[Dave G9N]

(quoted from post at 10:11:29 09/06/23) Thank you for the info! Still waiting on my piston and sleeve to show up. Been soaking the draft arm in used motor oil for about 3 days now to try to get that link inside the spring to loosen up and see if i can get it adjusted when i put everything back together.
Not sure if anyone else has ever done such a thing but my grandpa used to have like a 30 gallon drum about 1/2 way filled with used oil that he used to soak all kinds of stuff in. He swore the best penetrating oil is oil. Giver a dunk fer a couple days, shell come apart for ya

ine came off fairly easily, so based on a complete lack of relevant experience, I will refer you to YouTube where a young lady (I'm old, they're all young to me) named Rachel said you have to heat it to loosen it up. I have no idea why we don't use more anti seize on parts like this especially when we know how difficult they will be to remove later.