48 Ford 8N won't start

[jasmith503]

Long story. Sorry. Hope the details will help. Went to start my '48 Ford 8N and realized I didn't disconnect battery last fall. Of course dead. Charged it up, no spark. Plenty of gas. In fact the carburetor drips without loosening bottom bolt. Anyway, replaced points, condenser, removed plugs, dried them out replaced. Still no spark but my wife was standing next to it and noticed a spark at the back of the block. Went out after dark had my wife turn it over a few times and saw sparks in various location between back of block and battery bracket. Saw that the wire bundle with the ampmeter to alternator wire and the resistor to coil wire was touching battery bracket. Moved it over no good or bad spark. Went out next day and traced those two wires and found coil wire insulation gone and wire badly frayed right above coil. Replaced both wires. Alternator with 12awg, coil with 14. now won't even turn over. Solenoid just clicks rapidly. Please help.

 

[HFJ]

you've discharged your battery trying to start it. have u charged it back up since u tried?

 

[Jim L WA]

Did you clean the battery posts and battery cables? The clicking solenoid can be an indication of corroded battery connections. When you say alternator, is it a 12 volt conversion? or do you mean generator?

 

[jasmith503]

(quoted from post at 17:13:50 04/09/19)
you've discharged your battery trying to start it. have u charged it back up since u tried?

I wondered about that. Other electrical stuff works fine. Volts OK, low on amps? Guess I'll give the charge a go. Can you tell me why my post says no replies. My wife got an e-mail alerting me to yours. Guess I don't no anymore about forums than I do tractors

 

[jasmith503]

(quoted from post at 17:23:22 04/09/19) Did you clean the battery posts and battery cables? The clicking solenoid can be an indication of corroded battery connections. When you say alternator, is it a 12 volt conversion? or do you mean generator?

Yes cleaned the posts and when the solenoid started clicking removed wire and cleaned all connections

 

[jasmith503]

(reply to post at 17:13:50 04/09/19)

HFJ may be on to something. Went out, put it on the charger, and the meter on the charger says she is DEAD.

 

[jasmith503]

And yes, 12V conversion

 

[ASEguy]

I had to rewire my 8N. Since you only have one fuse I strongly recommend you use split loom to encase all wiring. When several circuits are involved a lot of current can flow and a fire start.

 

[jasmith503]

ASE Guy, Thanks, I wanted to wrap the two wires. The hardware store just had vinyl tubing. I'll pick up some split loom.

 

[jasmith503]

So this is where I'm at. I charged up the battery and tried again. Turned over fine, still no spark. Removed coil and checked resistance. Stud to Pigtail 6.5amps, Stud to tab 9K. Did notice some carbon buildup on tab, maybe from bad wire I mentioned in original post. cleaned it up. Re-installed, nada. Checked plugs, look dry. I do have new set but was waiting until I got a t least something to put them in. Also, is it safe to bypass resistor completely just to see if I get a spark? Like I said I had to put a new resistor in last summer when the one that had worked so long broke. Honestly don't know if I used tractor after installing other than just firing up to make sure it worked.

 

[jasmith503]

I meant ohms.

 

[deanostoybox]

6.5Ω is too much. 12V coil typically around 2.5Ω, 6V coil typically 1Ω or a little less.

It is OK to bypass the resistor for a test.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 15:07:26 04/10/19) I meant ohms.

.5 Ohms is too high, but low values of resistance are difficult to measure, so I'll ignore that number. Use a small 12v bolb or test lamp & connect it to chassis ground and probe coil stud while cranking with ignition on. What see? Probe input and output of resistor while cranking, ign on. What see?

 

[jasmith503]

(quoted from post at 13:24:33 04/10/19)

(quoted from post at 15:07:26 04/10/19) I meant ohms.

.5 Ohms is too high, but low values of resistance are difficult to measure, so I'll ignore that number. Use a small 12v bolb or test lamp & connect it to chassis ground and probe coil stud while cranking with ignition on. What see? Probe input and output of resistor while cranking, ign on. What see?

Thanks, I'll go get a 12V test lamp. If the 6.5ohms is correct does that mean coil shot? When that coil wire was shorting out and sparking is there a likely thing it would have damaged or not really?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 15:50:16 04/10/19)

(quoted from post at 13:24:33 04/10/19)

(quoted from post at 15:07:26 04/10/19) I meant ohms.

.5 Ohms is too high, but low values of resistance are difficult to measure, so I'll ignore that number. Use a small 12v bolb or test lamp & connect it to chassis ground and probe coil stud while cranking with ignition on. What see? Probe input and output of resistor while cranking, ign on. What see?

Thanks, I'll go get a 12V test lamp. If the 6.5ohms is correct does that mean coil shot? When that coil wire was shorting out and sparking is there a likely thing it would have damaged or not really?

o. that shorted wire would not damage coil.

 

[jasmith503]

(quoted from post at 13:50:16 04/10/19)

(quoted from post at 13:24:33 04/10/19)

(quoted from post at 15:07:26 04/10/19) I meant ohms.

.5 Ohms is too high, but low values of resistance are difficult to measure, so I'll ignore that number. Use a small 12v bolb or test lamp & connect it to chassis ground and probe coil stud while cranking with ignition on. What see? Probe input and output of resistor while cranking, ign on. What see?

Thanks, I'll go get a 12V test lamp. If the 6.5ohms is correct does that mean coil shot? When that coil wire was shorting out and sparking is there a likely thing it would have damaged or not really?

Here are the results. As far as I can tell it did the same thing in all three spots. When the ignition switch was turned on the lamp lit brightly, when engine cranked light dimmed slightly.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 17:05:38 04/10/19)

(quoted from post at 13:50:16 04/10/19)

(quoted from post at 13:24:33 04/10/19)

(quoted from post at 15:07:26 04/10/19) I meant ohms.

.5 Ohms is too high, but low values of resistance are difficult to measure, so I'll ignore that number. Use a small 12v bolb or test lamp & connect it to chassis ground and probe coil stud while cranking with ignition on. What see? Probe input and output of resistor while cranking, ign on. What see?

Thanks, I'll go get a 12V test lamp. If the 6.5ohms is correct does that mean coil shot? When that coil wire was shorting out and sparking is there a likely thing it would have damaged or not really?

Here are the results. As far as I can tell it did the same thing in all three spots. When the ignition switch was turned on the lamp lit brightly, when engine cranked light dimmed slightly.

oil stud & output of resistor are electrically common , so are the two that should have looked differently, i.e., blinking light as points opened & closed...bright, dim, bright, dim. the dimming you saw was normal loss of voltage as starter drew a few hundred amps from battery. verify pig tale of coil is making good contact with the distributor concave screw & that points are physically opening & closing & drag a coarse paper between the to ensure clean.

 

[jasmith503]

Thanks. Before I head out let me make sure I understand right. First my wiring follows the gray diagram except I just have single wire going directly from Ignition switch to Ampmeter, rather than using old resistor as junction post. So, I have wire going from switch to resistor. The other side of resistor goes directly to coil stud. Should both Coil side of resistor and coil stud blink with test light as points open and close?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 18:46:59 04/10/19) Thanks. Before I head out let me make sure I understand right. First my wiring follows the gray diagram except I just have single wire going directly from Ignition switch to Ampmeter, rather than using old resistor as junction post. So, I have wire going from switch to resistor. The other side of resistor goes directly to coil stud. Should both Coil side of resistor and coil stud blink with test light as points open and close?

es

 

[jasmith503]

I took the distributor and coil out. Points are new but checked them anyway. They are opening and closing .015 gap. Hit with some sandpaper. Pigtail connection looked sketchy. Pulled on pigtail a little and put a washer under the screw to lift head. Seem pretty good. Put it back together no spark. Checked light again, still no blinking. Condenser is also new. If bad could it be the problem?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 19:43:19 04/10/19) I took the distributor and coil out. Points are new but checked them anyway. They are opening and closing .015 gap. Hit with some sandpaper. Pigtail connection looked sketchy. Pulled on pigtail a little and put a washer under the screw to lift head. Seem pretty good. Put it back together no spark. Checked light again, still no blinking. Condenser is also new. If bad could it be the problem?

shorted condenser could yield no blink, but a half bright lamp. is it the same brightness as battery?

 

[jasmith503]

(quoted from post at 20:29:04 04/10/19)

(quoted from post at 19:43:19 04/10/19) I took the distributor and coil out. Points are new but checked them anyway. They are opening and closing .015 gap. Hit with some sandpaper. Pigtail connection looked sketchy. Pulled on pigtail a little and put a washer under the screw to lift head. Seem pretty good. Put it back together no spark. Checked light again, still no blinking. Condenser is also new. If bad could it be the problem?

shorted condenser could yield no blink, but a half bright lamp. is it the same brightness as battery?

It seemed to me the tester was the same brightness at all three locations prior to cranking and same brightness as tester just on battery. When cranking the dimming amount seemed equal

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 23:35:12 04/10/19)

(quoted from post at 20:29:04 04/10/19)

(quoted from post at 19:43:19 04/10/19) I took the distributor and coil out. Points are new but checked them anyway. They are opening and closing .015 gap. Hit with some sandpaper. Pigtail connection looked sketchy. Pulled on pigtail a little and put a washer under the screw to lift head. Seem pretty good. Put it back together no spark. Checked light again, still no blinking. Condenser is also new. If bad could it be the problem?

shorted condenser could yield no blink, but a half bright lamp. is it the same brightness as battery?

It seemed to me the tester was the same brightness at all three locations prior to cranking and same brightness as tester just on battery. When cranking the dimming amount seemed equal

It sounds like there is not a complete circuit thru the coil, points, to distributor/chassis ground. It other words an open circuit. Open in that area would most often be caused by coil pig tail not contacting concave screw in distributor, points not closing or having invisible film on contacts such as to prevent electrical contact even though making physical contact, or the copper strip from concave screw to points broken or cracked or missing.

 

[jasmith503]

I am really confused. Whenever this happened in the past it was a simple sandpaper or replace points. After you taught me about the blinking light test at coil and I still didn't have it after "fixing" pigtail I assumed it had to be in the coil/distributor somewhere and thought of the copper ribbon from condenser screw to points. Took distributor back out and it is in place. Guess I'll just pretend it is day one and re-install points, check and clean connections. Thanks for all the help. I'll post update later today.

 

[jasmith503]

JMOR, If I were to assemble the coil and distributor together off of the tractor can I use my meter to check continuity or resistance from coil stud to spark plug wire contacts on distributor cap by manually rotating distributor to verify electrical contact?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 11:57:35 04/11/19) JMOR, If I were to assemble the coil and distributor together off of the tractor can I use my meter to check continuity or resistance from coil stud to spark plug wire contacts on distributor cap by manually rotating distributor to verify electrical contact?

o. That won't work because rotor tip only comes close to plug wire sockets but does not touch. What you can do on the bench is Ohm from coil stud to distributor housing and as you rotate distributor, meter should alternate between the 3.5 Ohms of primary and open (very high resistance) as points open and close.

 

[jasmith503]

(quoted from post at 11:01:56 04/11/19)

(quoted from post at 11:57:35 04/11/19) JMOR, If I were to assemble the coil and distributor together off of the tractor can I use my meter to check continuity or resistance from coil stud to spark plug wire contacts on distributor cap by manually rotating distributor to verify electrical contact?

o. That won't work because rotor tip only comes close to plug wire sockets but does not touch. What you can do on the bench is Ohm from coil stud to distributor housing and as you rotate distributor, meter should alternate between the 3.5 Ohms of primary and open (very high resistance) as points open and close.

Great. THanks! While I was waiting for your reply I tried my idea of checking continuity and as you know didn't work. But I did start to trace continuity from concave screw through the distributor. Good continuity from concave screw to inner points. Closed points good continuity through points and to center post that rotor attaches to. On a whim I had an old distributor cap and comparing it to the one on the tractor the nub that contacts the coil tab was worn flush on the one on my tractor and stood proud on the old cap. Also on a whim I checked continuity from the nub on top of cap to the bump in middle of cap rotor contacts.Old cap solid continuity. New cap barely heard the buzzer. Am I maybe on to something? Of course when I put it on the tractor to test my battery wouldn't turn over the engine despite me charging last night. New battery next on my shopping list.

 

[jasmith503]

OK, Here are the results. On bench with coil/distributor, etc. assembled. As I move the rotor from points open to points closed the needle on my gauge went from far left (Infinite ohms) to 2.9ohms at all 4 positions. I am assuming since zeroing out my meter is probably not all that exact 2.9 is close enough to 3.5? I do have a related/unrelated concern. Since I had the distributor re-installed I decided to go ahead and give a test with the new cap on after charging battery. There was a little hesitation to turn over, then a pop and flash (I think from where positive cable connects to solenoid), turned over but saw smoke coming from ell bracket that connects solenoid to starter. Immediately quit trying and disconnected battery.???

 

[jasmith503]

Here is some better data for you re the two different distributor caps. I checked the Ohms from the nub at top of cap to both the bump in center of cap and brass ring around bump in center of cap. The old one with the nub that protrudes red zero at both places. The one that has been on my tractor read zero to brass ring but 160 Ohms to the bump.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 15:19:46 04/11/19)
Here is some better data for you re the two different distributor caps. I checked the Ohms from the nub at top of cap to both the bump in center of cap and brass ring around bump in center of cap. The old one with the nub that protrudes red zero at both places. The one that has been on my tractor read zero to brass ring but 160 Ohms to the bump.

crape those bumps/nubbs clean and re-measure. I have 2 old caps here & both show zero Ohms, just as I expected they would. Your coil stud to distr housing, points opening/closing test sounds good. Solenoid/starter studs to cable & strap are probably in need of cleaning & tightening.

 

[jasmith503]

OK, cleaned up bumps/nubs on "newer" cap. Both read zero now. Given the one that had read 160 Ohms was the one that was on the tractor do you think we may have found the issue? Would that have prevented the light from blinking when testing coil stud while cranking? In addition to cleaning/ tightening connections at solenoid (which I did yesterday, maybe poorly, when got no crank) would marginal battery amps also be an issue? I am getting more and more suspicious of this battery as I continue this process.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 16:35:18 04/11/19)
OK, cleaned up bumps/nubs on "newer" cap. Both read zero now. Given the one that had read 160 Ohms was the one that was on the tractor do you think we may have found the issue? Would that have prevented the light from blinking when testing coil stud while cranking? In addition to cleaning/ tightening connections at solenoid (which I did yesterday, maybe poorly, when got no crank) would marginal battery amps also be an issue? I am getting more and more suspicious of this battery as I continue this process.

o, because if you had 20,000 volts there, it would fire thru the rust/high resistance anyway. no, because it wasn't in the low voltage circuit. yes, sure possible.

 

[jasmith503]

OK, if the cap wasn't the issue what is the next step? I have everything out and on the bench now. Cleaning battery cables with Coke. First time I've tried that, scary how well it works. Is it time to get the new battery or just limp along with this one until we get a spark?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 17:23:45 04/11/19) OK, if the cap wasn't the issue what is the next step? I have everything out and on the bench now. Cleaning battery cables with Coke. First time I've tried that, scary how well it works. Is it time to get the new battery or just limp along with this one until we get a spark?

f you have jumper cables or jump box, you could use one or the other to boost tractor battery. You could even try to bench test distributor as shown here: these for positive ground, so swap +/- signs.

 

[jasmith503]

Maybe I misunderstood. I thought the coil post to distributor housing told us we were good to that point. Is all we learned is that electrical connections are good to that point but coil could still be bad? This bench test would determine that? Finally, to do bench test I should run + terminal to top of coil?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 18:18:36 04/11/19)
Maybe I misunderstood. I thought the coil post to distributor housing told us we were good to that point. Is all we learned is that electrical connections are good to that point but coil could still be bad? This bench test would determine that? Finally, to do bench test I should run + terminal to top of coil?

t did tell you that points are switching the coil primary and that primary has continuity, but said nothing about ability to produce high voltage spark (secondary of coil). yes, + to top of coil via resistor and neg to distributor housing. You can skip resistor if you do a very quick test and not leave battery connected for anything more than perhaps 30 seconds. Direction of rotation is mandatory as I noted.

 

[jasmith503]

I have been looking at these two bench tests a bit. I am now thinking our coil stud to distributor housing test has eliminated the pigtail to concave screw, the concave screw to points, and the points as the issue. Still remaining are coil and/or cap. These two tests could confirm or eliminate them. Correct? My understanding is the coil produces a high voltage jolt to fire the plugs. If so, what can I hold on to if I do either of these bench tests?

 

[jasmith503]

Oops, we had messages flying at same time. What about my additional questions.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 19:54:41 04/11/19)
I have been looking at these two bench tests a bit. I am now thinking our coil stud to distributor housing test has eliminated the pigtail to concave screw, the concave screw to points, and the points as the issue. Still remaining are coil and/or cap. These two tests could confirm or eliminate them. Correct? My understanding is the coil produces a high voltage jolt to fire the plugs. If so, what can I hold on to if I do either of these bench tests?

old onto anything you like....it won't kill you! Just make you jump.

 

[jasmith503]

Aren't you the comedian. Anyway did the coil only test. Got a spark at both coil tab and points at all four spots. Haven't done the test with the cap on yet. Going to go try and set it up now.

 

[jasmith503]

Since you enjoyed my "will it kill me" question so much maybe this pic of my Coil/Cap test will do the same. Surprisingly did get a spark at all four positions. 3 was a bit temperamental but I think that was due to too large a gap. When got within 3/16" to a 1/4" all seemed to spark. After I was done I did double check point gap and it was .015" at all locations. Right for side mount, Correct? Just kidding I have front mount. Next?

 

[jasmith503]

I have no idea. The pic on my screen is not upside down. Sorry

 

[JMOR]

good job. Now install the whole assembly without separating the coil from the distributor base.

 

[jasmith503]

That could be a challenge, but we'll give it go after breakfast.

 

[jasmith503]

(quoted from post at 04:36:56 04/12/19) good job. Now install the whole assembly without separating the coil from the distributor base.

OK. NO start but some progress. When I was putting everything back together the only new thing I did was add a couple washers to the solenoid stud on the ell bracket that was smoking the other day. The threads were damaged at the bottom preventing a good tightening. Tried to start it, caught at first, then turned over. No start. Repeated to 12V test lamp check and definitely have a strobe effect now at both the coil stud and coil side of transistor. I have assumed gas was not the issue due to gas dripping from carb when trying to start and plugs being wet after first attempt. I have not done the 1/4" spark plug gap spark test yet. Also, I'm sure my neighbor has a can of ether. I'll await suggestions on next steps. Thanks

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 13:09:53 04/12/19)

(quoted from post at 04:36:56 04/12/19) good job. Now install the whole assembly without separating the coil from the distributor base.

OK. NO start but some progress. When I was putting everything back together the only new thing I did was add a couple washers to the solenoid stud on the ell bracket that was smoking the other day. The threads were damaged at the bottom preventing a good tightening. Tried to start it, caught at first, then turned over. No start. Repeated to 12V test lamp check and definitely have a strobe effect now at both the coil stud and coil side of transistor. I have assumed gas was not the issue due to gas dripping from carb when trying to start and plugs being wet after first attempt. I have not done the 1/4" spark plug gap spark test yet. Also, I'm sure my neighbor has a can of ether. I'll await suggestions on next steps. Thanks

ripping carb =too much choke, wet plugs. Try no choke, dry plugs or fresh plugs and ether. Just turn gas valve off to prevent flooding.

 

[jasmith503]

OK, call me a moron if you must. Here is my story and I'm sticking to it. When I was writing my last post about the good 12V light test I thought to myself "why didn't I take the extra 5 seconds and check the switch side as well" so I could give you the complete picture. Went back out, not 10 minutes from when I did the other test and the *&^%$ thing wouldn't turn over. Enough already, I'm getting a new battery. Picked up new batt cables as well, put them in, and BAM. Purring like a kitten. Just finished grading the driveway. Thanks for all your help. If I can figure out how to print this thread I will put it in my tractor book for a good step by step approach to tracking down no spark issues.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 16:22:34 04/12/19)
OK, call me a moron if you must. Here is my story and I'm sticking to it. When I was writing my last post about the good 12V light test I thought to myself "why didn't I take the extra 5 seconds and check the switch side as well" so I could give you the complete picture. Went back out, not 10 minutes from when I did the other test and the *&^%$ thing wouldn't turn over. Enough already, I'm getting a new battery. Picked up new batt cables as well, put them in, and BAM. Purring like a kitten. Just finished grading the driveway. Thanks for all your help. If I can figure out how to print this thread I will put it in my tractor book for a good step by step approach to tracking down no spark issues.

appy for you & your accomplishment! happy tractoring.

 

[jasmith503]

Thank you. One final question for future reference. When we did the resistance check on the coil what kind of results would have perked your interest. Targets were 2-2.25 primary and 6-8k secondary. I think that is correct use of those terms.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 18:04:32 04/12/19)
Thank you. One final question for future reference. When we did the resistance check on the coil what kind of results would have perked your interest. Targets were 2-2.25 primary and 6-8k secondary. I think that is correct use of those terms.

outside range of ~2.0-3.0 and outside range of ~4K-15K

 

[jasmith503]

I mean it this time,one last question. What is your advice on the resistor? To review I have used an 8NE10306 for 25 years per the instructions for my 12V conversion kit. The resistor that came with my kit gave out last year and I replaced with another 10306. Switch to 12250A or stay the course? If stay the course what would symptoms be of trouble? Again thank you for all your help and testing tips.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 18:39:33 04/12/19)
I mean it this time,one last question. What is your advice on the resistor? To review I have used an 8NE10306 for 25 years per the instructions for my 12V conversion kit. The resistor that came with my kit gave out last year and I replaced with another 10306. Switch to 12250A or stay the course? If stay the course what would symptoms be of trouble? Again thank you for all your help and testing tips.

hat you really want is the "end result" which is very close to 4 amperes points closed-stalled-engine current thru the coil/resistor combination. (actually in the end you want a tractor that starts and runs well) . So, the best most precise thing would be to select a resistor which in conjunction with your specific coil would yield 4 amperes. For a 2.5 Ohm coil that will be a resistor of about 0.625 Ohms at 12.5 volts, but when running, the voltage will be closer to 14.4v, & that calls for 1.1 Ohms for 4 amps. Anything around that range will be fine. The 12250 is 0.7 cold and about 1.7 when absolutely RED glowing , set paper on fire hot (on a tractor you will never see it this hot unless something is wrong). Fact is that dwell (amount of time points closed) and the larger time points are open per cycle combined with the exponential time rise of current during points closed, reduce that steady state 4 amperes to an operational current of just about 1.3 amperes. That is the average coil current, the average which heats both the coil and resistor. So even though it goes against the grain of the often repeated idea that the 12250 acts as a temperature dependent resistor to offer high cold start and reduced run current, I say true but very, very little. It will not get anywhere remotely close to 1.7 Ohms in normal operation, maybe up to about an Ohm. It was more likely designed this way to 'help' keep from burning up a coil when operator stalls engine, leaves ignition ON, while he walks home to get gas. The problem with 10306 resistor is that if you can believe those reporting, is that out of the box they may be 0.5 Ohms, 1.0 Ohms, 1.5 Ohms or in between?? Will any of them work alright? Most of the time, yes. If resistance gets too high & battery too low and spark plugs degraded and cold weather sets in, at some point they all stack up to a no start. If it happens to you, just short the resistor during start up, use pocket knife, wrench or for the well prepared, the jumper wire in the tool box.

 

[jasmith503]

I won't pretend I got all that but I do think I got the bottom line. Thanks again for all your help.

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 21:49:58 04/12/19)

The problem with 10306 resistor is that if you can believe those reporting, is that out of the box they may be 0.5 Ohms, 1.0 Ohms, 1.5 Ohms or in between??

the one that came in my kit was three point five ohms. i thought i had set the bar until i saw the guy with the 5.5 ohm blob.

i can't vouch for his, but i can for mine

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 21:36:04 04/12/19)

(quoted from post at 21:49:58 04/12/19)

The problem with 10306 resistor is that if you can believe those reporting, is that out of the box they may be 0.5 Ohms, 1.0 Ohms, 1.5 Ohms or in between??

the one that came in my kit was three point five ohms. i thought i had set the bar until i saw the guy with the 5.5 ohm blob.

i can't vouch for his, but i can for mine

hey do appear scattered , but..................how many have the capability to accurately measure sub- Ohm resistance?

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 01:13:55 04/13/19)

(quoted from post at 21:36:04 04/12/19)

(quoted from post at 21:49:58 04/12/19)

The problem with 10306 resistor is that if you can believe those reporting, is that out of the box they may be 0.5 Ohms, 1.0 Ohms, 1.5 Ohms or in between??

the one that came in my kit was three point five ohms. i thought i had set the bar until i saw the guy with the 5.5 ohm blob.

i can't vouch for his, but i can for mine

hey do appear scattered , but..................how many have the capability to accurately measure sub- Ohm resistance?

no telling. but i do trust my fluke 30 when it says 3.5 ?

 

[HFJ]

hah, should have known the omega would not come thru. wait, i know - i'll just edit it out! :idea:

 

[jasmith503]

JMOR, I was comparing the wiring diagram you sent to the one supplied with my conversion kit. I did notice one difference. Mine says to connect one side of the ignition switch to the resistor, as does yours, but mine says to connect the other switch wire to the neg side of ammeter. I realize it has worked that way for 25 years but was wondering if it could cause any issues.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 18:24:05 04/14/19) JMOR, I was comparing the wiring diagram you sent to the one supplied with my conversion kit. I did notice one difference. Mine says to connect one side of the ignition switch to the resistor, as does yours, but mine says to connect the other switch wire to the neg side of ammeter. I realize it has worked that way for 25 years but was wondering if it could cause any issues.

on't fix it if it ain't broke! That is unless your aim is to break it.

 

[jasmith503]

Okey dokey. I was just curious if even though it works this way it was better like your diagram.