4wd Front Axle/ Steering Issue - 1401D

[1938Case-HT]

I bought a YM1401d last week (with Koyker 80 loader and Yanmar tiller). It is difficult to steer going forwards and almost impossible to steer when backing up. Zerks take grease and steering is decently tight. Axle has oil at the shaft level and looks normal (not milky). It looks to me like the housing that rotates at the wheel is rubbing (tipped out) on the wheel side as though the bearings are out (along the king pin). I have not taken it apart yet, but plan on it this winter. Do I just replace all the bearings and seals (vertical and horizontal) while I'm in there?

I've been going through this <https://www.hoyetractor.com/CTGY/14014WDEXTERNAL.htm> diagram looking at all the bearings, bushings, seals, etc. Lots of stuff packed into a small space!
Thanks,
Paul

 

[winston-HT]

I would recommend taking it apart for inspection, then order parts needed.

 

[1938Case-HT]

So I just got done taking apart and rebuilding. (part numbers for reference: https://www.hoyetractor.com/CTGY/14014WDEXTERNAL.htm)
Replaced: large seal 38, bearings 54 & 57, and upper seal 56. I made a few 'improvements' to the design after studying the load path. The upper bearing #54 is where the vertical load is transferred from lower housing into the upper housing via thrust load thru the bearing. Deep groove ball bearings are not rated for thrust load (only radial) so I replace with a same size angular contact ball bearing (7205: 10,000-lb combined static load capacity). Also, that bearing is above the level of case oil so I drilled and tapped a grease zerk into the housing filling the space around the spacer. The lower ball bearing I left sealed on the top to keep the grease and oil separate (bottom seal removed and exposed to case oil). I also put a couple of small holes in the upper seal to relieve pressure from the new greased area (if kept greased, should keep water out). Wheels re-aligned for slight toe in. I can upload progress pictures and elaborate further if anyone is interested.

It does steer a little better, but the bottom housing is still tipping out and it's still hard to steer even with an empty bucket. It looks to me like the pin is probably undersized and just deflecting that much under load. Maybe I need to custom fab a bracket to connect the lower housing to the upper part of the pin to create a double shear condition? That's what the later models and JD's have. This model just isn't meant for a loader I guess... Works will without the loader. FYI, the 135d and 155d (late models) have the same style axles which helped enormously for disassembly/ assembly and parts. Anybody else have this issue (1401d, 135d or 155d)?

 

[winston-HT]

Very interesting. I opted to use a sealed bearing on top because of the bearing above oil level. Don't know why you still have tilting out. Something just doesn't sound right about that but I have no answer.

 

[1938Case-HT]

<B><s></s>Update<e></e></B>:

I fabricated a reinforcing bracket and it works great now. No problem steering, even when bucket is loaded (at lease as you would expect without power steering). Here are some pictures:

<ATTACHMENT filename="IMG_5105a.JPG" index="1"><s>[attachment=1]</s>IMG_5105a.JPG<e>[/attachment]</e></ATTACHMENT>
I had a shop bend some 3/16 flat steel and dill a 22mm hole. Then this picture is after I started shaping it.

<ATTACHMENT filename="IMG_5128a.JPG" index="0"><s>[attachment=0]</s>IMG_5128a.JPG<e>[/attachment]</e></ATTACHMENT>
I had to cut the top bend and then weld it back, just to hard getting everything lined up. I took out all the shims and washers between the pit man arm and the upper housing because the pin diameter steps down and wanted the 3/16 plate to be flush (all the shims and washers basically added up to 3/16"). I'm not worried about wear on the two cast pieces since I added the grease zerk, which releases between those points. At the bottom I used the original top bolts and removed the lock washer. If lock washer is left on I think the bold head would hit the tabs on the back of the axle.

 

[1938Case-HT]

And here's the final product.
<ATTACHMENT filename="IMG_5140a.JPG" index="1"><s>[attachment=1]</s>IMG_5140a.JPG<e>[/attachment]</e></ATTACHMENT>

And with wheels on. I have about a 1/4 to 3/8 clear to the wheel, hard to see from this angle.
<ATTACHMENT filename="IMG_5144a.jpg" index="0"><s>[attachment=0]</s>IMG_5144a.jpg<e>[/attachment]</e></ATTACHMENT>

Next project is to add a sub frame from the loader mounts to the rear end. Then we'll be cooking with gas! I have a bunch of other pictures and part numbers if anyone is interested. Thanks!
Paul

Update: I should add I'm going to replace the original 8mm x22mm bolts at the bottom with 8mm x 25mm bolts. M8 Grade 8.8 bolts have about a 2,000-lb ultimate capacity, so x2 with a FS of 5 would be about 800-lbs so that's pretty close. I'll probably switch them out to 10.9 at some point (about 1,000-lb allowable capacity). Of course, there's going to load share with the original pin, so maybe it's ok...

 

[winston-HT]

Glad it is working for you. Pretty ingenious.

 

[Aaron-HT]

Very nice!

 

[gordlong]

i purchased a 1980 yanmar 1401D that had a front bucket installed, i seem to be having the same problem with really hard steering. i am in the process of working on rebuilding the steering box, and believe that manufacturing a bracket for both sides would be a big improvement as well. This is a very ingenious way of solving what looks to be problem for others, the problem i am having is finding the pictures showing how these brackets were built and where they are mounted to the bottom knuckle, any help would be appreciated

 

[bmaverick]

i purchased a 1980 yanmar 1401D that had a front bucket installed, i seem to be having the same problem with really hard steering. i am in the process of working on rebuilding the steering box, and believe that manufacturing a bracket for both sides would be a big improvement as well. This is a very ingenious way of solving what looks to be problem for others, the problem i am having is finding the pictures showing how these brackets were built and where they are mounted to the bottom knuckle, any help would be appreciated

As Hoye is now gone, go ahead and check out Brand-M.

Aaron sold Hoye, and has now moved to Brand-M.

 

[gordlong]

As Hoye is now gone, go ahead and check out Brand-M.

Aaron sold Hoye, and has now moved to Brand-M.

Thank you for the reply, unfortunately living in canada limits our access to suppliers from the US, and buying parts is difficult as most don't ship to canada, but i won't be deterred, where there's a will.................