5000 needs rings

[SLICK RICK]

Can someone tell me if the tractor has to be split front & back to remove oil pan?

 

[Bern]

Front - yes, back - no

 

[shaun wallace]

The front support will have to be moved forward. No split at eng/trans.

 

[SLICK RICK]

Thanks guys, I guess that is all I need to know for now & I'll start gathering parts.Any tricks u know to make the in frame
go easier or faster.

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 21:43:15 05/10/14) Thanks guys, I guess that is all I need to know for now & I'll start gathering parts.Any tricks u know to make the in frame
go easier or faster.

I expect that you will be replacing bearings while in there so you should buy plenty of Plasti-gauge and read up on red and blue bearings.

 

[carl reitnauer]

What bearings are red ones and blue ones? are you
referring to plastigage colors?

 

[Bern]

No, Ford's standard bearings came in two different sizes, believe it or not. I believe that they were different by about .001". I suspect that it allowed the factory to fine-tune tolerances on the assembly line.

 

[Hayburner]

(quoted from post at 19:33:52 05/10/14) Can someone tell me if the tractor has to be split front & back to remove oil pan?

Is this a gas or diesel?

I have a 5000 diesel, and if that is what you are rebuilding, I will be watching this thread very closely.

As you go through the process, any kind of detail you can provide or pictures would be very greatly appreciated.

 

[SLICK RICK]

It is a diesel & I should have installed rings a long time ago but put it off.The previous owner always used either to start it & it will not start when it sits overnight without either.a lot of blow by out of the breather tube, oil pressure 50-60 when engine is hot.I found a cd today that has the 5k service manual & that will help me with the specs & I want ask a lot of silly ?'s.
Anyhow when the cd gets here I'll start & try to update if anyone is interested.

 

[Hayburner]

(quoted from post at 18:36:34 05/11/14) It is a diesel & I should have installed rings a long time ago but put it off.The previous owner always used either to start it & it will not start when it sits overnight without either.a lot of blow by out of the breather tube, oil pressure 50-60 when engine is hot.I found a cd today that has the 5k service manual & that will help me with the specs & I want ask a lot of silly ?'s.
Anyhow when the cd gets here I'll start & try to update if anyone is interested.

I am certainly interested. I bought a complete set of manuals including the service manual after I got the tractor, but I've never had the guts to attempt an overhaul. I would have the ability to do it all, but I'm afraid I would run into something and screw it up. I would like to do as much as possible, new pistons, rings, etc., but don't have the knowledge to do it.
I wouldn't know if the cylinders would need honing or sleeves, if the pistons were the right size, if the crank bearings were the right size, etc. I could probably do it if the service manual has the steps showing it, but far too many leave out details like using the plasti-guage mentioned above. I also wouldn't know if the head needed work.

 

[SLICK RICK]

I guess in framing the engine is like the ones on semi's
& I have done many of them.I don't feel like working on the tractor after I do it all week at my job so I don't know how major of a rebuild I want to do I always expect the worst on these engine jobs & hope for the best.Do not know about the 2 different size std.bearings I will have to get the cd for more info & shipper is out of town ETA ??.If the crank journals look good I would not use the plastic gauge but if the std.bearings are .001 diff.i would.Never used the plastic gauge on truck motors never had a problem always a first time.One thing for sure if I start I have to get it done, need the old boy this summer.

 

[SLICK RICK]

I guess in framing the engine is like the ones on semi's
& I have done many of them.I don't feel like working on the tractor after I do it all week at my job so I don't know how major of a rebuild I want to do I always expect the worst on these engine jobs & hope for the best.Do not know about the 2 different size std.bearings I will have to get the cd for more info & shipper is out of town ETA ??.If the crank journals look good I would not use the plastic gauge but if the std.bearings are .001 diff.i would.Never used the plastic gauge on truck motors never had a problem always a first time.One thing for sure if I start I have to get it done, need the old boy this summer.

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 00:15:28 05/12/14) I guess in framing the engine is like the ones on semi's
& I have done many of them.I don't feel like working on the tractor after I do it all week at my job so I don't know how major of a rebuild I want to do I always expect the worst on these engine jobs & hope for the best.Do not know about the 2 different size std.bearings I will have to get the cd for more info & shipper is out of town ETA ??.If the crank journals look good I would not use the plastic gauge but if the std.bearings are .001 diff.i would.Never used the plastic gauge on truck motors never had a problem always a first time.One thing for sure if I start I have to get it done, need the old boy this summer.

One-third decade ago I replaced bearings in my 10,000 hour Ford 9000. It still had original red crank bearings! Only one was showing copper, but the rod bearings were .020 and showing wear. So it is fairly likely that you would need rod bearings only.

 

[RodinNS]

I think you have a great deal of optimism if you think you're going to in-frame that engine after the description you just gave. It's more likely going to spend some time under a boring bar before you get clean walls to work with. You do know this is a parent bore engine?

Rod

 

[THE LIMEY]

I would suggest that if the rod bearings are down then the main bearings would not be far behind.
I would split at the bell housing to gain access to the flywheel and drop the crank out. Not a lot more in time but could save a heap of cash in the long run.