I"m starting to look for a tractor (preferably Ford)in the 55-65 hp range, and have come across the 5000, 4610, and 5610 in my area. I need it to pull a 10 ft med duty brush hog, and that"s about all I"ll do with it. Is there any significant disadvantage to the 5000? Is the 4610 adequate to pull or lift a 10" cutter? How much more should I be willing to pay for a 5610 over a 5000 all other things being equal? Thanks if advance for your advice.
Fordfarmer
Well-known Member
Age, limited hydraulic flow, and sometimes iffy power steering (mainly on the older models) would be the biggest disadvantages to a 5000. Be aware that there were two engines used in the 5000 - a 233 c.i. from '65 through mid '68, and a 256 from mid '68 on. The 233 version was rated 57 PTO h.p., while the 256 was 67. The ones with the 256 are a lot more tractor. I'm pretty sure a 4610 is rated at 52 h.p., but I've seen 55 claimed. 201 3-cyl. - good engine. Might be a bit small for a 10' brush hog, but that would depend on what you're cutting. 5610 should be a 256 c.i. and 62 h.p. a 5610 is two generations newer than a 5000... around here, I'd expect a significant price difference, maybe $5-6000, but you have to consider the age difference.
I've got a home-made 7 ft. bush hog...1/4" thick decking...that is about all my 4610 wants behind it when I lift and turn, etc....front end get get just a wee bit on the lite side. As far as HP requirements are concerned...that will depend on what you are hogging and how fast you are trying to go. I like my 4610, but the 5610 just might be better for what you are trying to do....JMHO!!
Rick
Rick
macec3(TX)
Member
I had a 5000 and currently have a 5610. The 5000 was a good tractor, but in my opinion the 5610 is better. Ford dealer told me that some of the parts are not availale for the older Ford tractors. With that in mind, I would go with the 5610. Even if it cost more, in my opinion you would be better off down the road.
Make sure the 5610 is not a 5610S. There are differences that may influence your purchase.
Make sure the 5610 is not a 5610S. There are differences that may influence your purchase.
Brian in MA
Well-known Member
As others have said, there are differences. I would look at price and condition. There are 5610 tractors in worse shape with more hours than 5000 models out there. All models you mention will probably work fine, 4610 will be lighter in the front, but unless you are clearing the jungle, probably enough power. If all you do is run this mower, hydraulic operation and speed probably won't be an issue. If you will be using it a lot, you might want to consider that the 4 cylinder models are smoother and quieter and in my opinion more enjoyable to run for long periods of time as compared with the 201 3 cylinder. That said I run my 4600 & 4000 more than my 5600 because the fuel consumption is less and they are more nimble in tight quarters. Just my $.02.
Shetland Sheepdog
Well-known Member
Just a note here, The newer 5000 was replaced by the 66xx tractors, and the 56xx tractors were stuck in between the 46xx's & 66xx's.
HTH, Dave
HTH, Dave
4xx0 tractors are probably a bit shy on power for a 10' hog. You could do it, but would take some creativity. As far as weight goes... you can easily add front suitcase weight to carry far more weight than the hog, quite safely.
So... in terms of power you'd be better off with a later 5000, 5600 or 5610.
Now... realize that there are very few differences between a base model 10 and a late 5000. The main one being hydraulic pump flow which is a bit more than double that of a 5000. That's worth something to some but if you're just raising a bushhog... the 5000 is just as capable.
For the bareback 5610 I don't think I'd really value it much more than 1000 bucks more than a 5000. Now if you get adding the second hydraulic pump, hydrostatic steering, the syncro transmission, a 'Q' cab and especially MFWD... then the value goes up considerably. Easily more than double what a 5000 is worth if it's fully decked out given both are in good condition. But still... the MFWD is the biggest value adder followed by the cab.
If you've got visions of adding a loader, GET MFWD. I'd also probably opt to not get a cab if you want a loader. Q cabs on those tractors, with loaders.... make then nearly all but impossible to work on without deconstructing half the tractor to get at some things. Cabs just don't add joy when you have to repair it either.
For what you've described tho... I think you could be just as well served by a later 5000. Biggest concern with any of them is getting one in good shape.
IN terms of parts availability... there's not a large difference between a 10 and a 5000. A very large part of the 5000 is directly carried into the 5610... and the things that were not are harder to get for the 5610 because they were never built in the numbers that the 5000 was built in... I'd wager that there are a lot more small and obscure 10 series parts that are NLA than there are with the 5000 or the hundred series tractors before them... or even the 9N. Keep in mind that parts stock decisions on these things are made based on turnover, NOT age. There's a lot more turnover on the old stuff than there is on a 10.... One needs to remember that there are still a LOT of low hour 10's out there that haven't yet needed a lot of major work...
Rod
So... in terms of power you'd be better off with a later 5000, 5600 or 5610.
Now... realize that there are very few differences between a base model 10 and a late 5000. The main one being hydraulic pump flow which is a bit more than double that of a 5000. That's worth something to some but if you're just raising a bushhog... the 5000 is just as capable.
For the bareback 5610 I don't think I'd really value it much more than 1000 bucks more than a 5000. Now if you get adding the second hydraulic pump, hydrostatic steering, the syncro transmission, a 'Q' cab and especially MFWD... then the value goes up considerably. Easily more than double what a 5000 is worth if it's fully decked out given both are in good condition. But still... the MFWD is the biggest value adder followed by the cab.
If you've got visions of adding a loader, GET MFWD. I'd also probably opt to not get a cab if you want a loader. Q cabs on those tractors, with loaders.... make then nearly all but impossible to work on without deconstructing half the tractor to get at some things. Cabs just don't add joy when you have to repair it either.
For what you've described tho... I think you could be just as well served by a later 5000. Biggest concern with any of them is getting one in good shape.
IN terms of parts availability... there's not a large difference between a 10 and a 5000. A very large part of the 5000 is directly carried into the 5610... and the things that were not are harder to get for the 5610 because they were never built in the numbers that the 5000 was built in... I'd wager that there are a lot more small and obscure 10 series parts that are NLA than there are with the 5000 or the hundred series tractors before them... or even the 9N. Keep in mind that parts stock decisions on these things are made based on turnover, NOT age. There's a lot more turnover on the old stuff than there is on a 10.... One needs to remember that there are still a LOT of low hour 10's out there that haven't yet needed a lot of major work...
Rod
i have a lat 75 ford 5000, diesel, 8spd, withthe 256ci engine.
I pull a 10' 3pt mower with it.. It took a hundred pounds of additional front weight, in addition to the 4 pillow weights it already had up front.
it cunts anything the front axle can push down.
the limited hyds have not been an issue considering you are running a single 3pt lift cyl for that mower..
soundguy
I pull a 10' 3pt mower with it.. It took a hundred pounds of additional front weight, in addition to the 4 pillow weights it already had up front.
it cunts anything the front axle can push down.
the limited hyds have not been an issue considering you are running a single 3pt lift cyl for that mower..
soundguy
Fordfarmer
Well-known Member
After reading the other replies, I'll qualify my price difference comment by saying that would be for similarly equipped tractors that you could typically find for sale around here... you simply won't find many 5610's for sale for starters, and the ones you find will have much lower hours and will be in nicer shape than the 5000's that are available. If you find a 5000 and a 5610 that are truly comparable, I'd go along with Rod's price difference estimate.
If you're just using the 3-point, you won't notice the difference in hydraulic GPM's. And age in and of itself ins't an issue with the 5000... just that they're apt to have much higher hours than a series 10, and may or may not have had needed maintenance and repairs.
If you're just using the 3-point, you won't notice the difference in hydraulic GPM's. And age in and of itself ins't an issue with the 5000... just that they're apt to have much higher hours than a series 10, and may or may not have had needed maintenance and repairs.
Brian Allen
Well-known Member
sixbales
Like me, spelling is not one of Chris's strong points.
He is a very good at helping out on these forums, so "please" cut him a bit of slack.
Smile!
Brian
Like me, spelling is not one of Chris's strong points.
He is a very good at helping out on these forums, so "please" cut him a bit of slack.
Smile!
Brian
a 101 or 104 key, FULL SIZE keyboard might make a huge difference.. that and being able to type with a regular 2 hand setup... not a condensed keyboard hunched over a bench or leaning against something in the pseudo dark... 
take all of that THEN add in some normal misspellings.. and poof.. blows the text away.
this lil thing don't have the full length space bar either.. just a short one under the v-b-n
takes so long to post and whatnot that going back to edit is time consuiming for every single moved letter , etc...
take all of that THEN add in some normal misspellings.. and poof.. blows the text away.
this lil thing don't have the full length space bar either.. just a short one under the v-b-n
takes so long to post and whatnot that going back to edit is time consuiming for every single moved letter , etc...
i didn't even notice it till he pointed it out.
and yeah.. was a sliped finger, not an intentional wording.
ditto on the potty filter.. I'm WAY surprised it made it thru.. it must be getting numb from my 'encoded' text going thru alot.
I post on classic.. no edit feature there.. and too time consuming to hop over to modern, fix and hop back.. not to mention I think there is a time limit on editing anyway..
honest mistake on my part.. cn't even see the kb half the time anyway...like right now.
if I didn't know how to touch type.. nothing would come out.. problem is I learned to touch type way back on a selectric.. and this lil condensed keyboard is layed out different than a larger kb.. like even a 101 on a full size pc.. etc...
and yeah.. was a sliped finger, not an intentional wording.
ditto on the potty filter.. I'm WAY surprised it made it thru.. it must be getting numb from my 'encoded' text going thru alot.
I post on classic.. no edit feature there.. and too time consuming to hop over to modern, fix and hop back.. not to mention I think there is a time limit on editing anyway..
honest mistake on my part.. cn't even see the kb half the time anyway...like right now.
if I didn't know how to touch type.. nothing would come out.. problem is I learned to touch type way back on a selectric.. and this lil condensed keyboard is layed out different than a larger kb.. like even a 101 on a full size pc.. etc...
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
Buy the biggest, newest tractor you can afford - in this case the 5610. Even if you have to get a loan or rack up the Visa for the last few thou. Every series Ford built had improvements over the old one.
As for the 4610, I know it's a little more tractor than my 4000 but I shudder to think of a 10' hog on the back of mine and having to heft it around.
Now as for Soundguy and his bad spelling.
I wonder if it wasn't Freudian.
Maybe his wife is mad at him lately
As for the 4610, I know it's a little more tractor than my 4000 but I shudder to think of a 10' hog on the back of mine and having to heft it around.
Now as for Soundguy and his bad spelling.
I wonder if it wasn't Freudian.
Maybe his wife is mad at him lately
Brian Allen
Well-known Member
Ultradog MN
The 46XX series is a lot more tractor than the 40XX series.
I don't know why, or how, but they are!
My 4600 would run a 10' hog.
Brian
The 46XX series is a lot more tractor than the 40XX series.
I don't know why, or how, but they are!
My 4600 would run a 10' hog.
Brian
Shetland Sheepdog
Well-known Member
I'll second that Rod!
The late 5000 will have considerably more power than the 5610 as well! My 5610 runs with my brothers 5000, but a prior owner got at the smoke screw a li'l! I figure that it's equivalent to a 6610 now, but I've never had it on a dyno. About the hardest work it does is running the 2.5 meter discbine in RCG.
Dave
The late 5000 will have considerably more power than the 5610 as well! My 5610 runs with my brothers 5000, but a prior owner got at the smoke screw a li'l! I figure that it's equivalent to a 6610 now, but I've never had it on a dyno. About the hardest work it does is running the 2.5 meter discbine in RCG.
Dave
Got to remember that the late 5000 was set at 68 PTO hp and the 6600 was it's successor at 70 hp. The 5600 closed the gap at 60 hp... which the 5610 followed at 62. As far as any of it goes, a 5610 could fairly easily be turned up to 70 but I doubt it would stay cool without more fan.
Rod
Rod
the late 5000 was an almost indistructable tractor with super longevity due to its design, while the 5610 was more modern, it also is a bit more fragile.. so there can be a huge advantage to getting the late 5000 model if it has low hours and has been taken care-of. You never know if a 5610 is two hours away from cavitation due the the different combustion design. the hydraulics were run much hotter and pump are always tired, so a $3800 dollar engine and a $700 dollar pump are always turn offs on the 10 series. But, they steer quicker, and have more hydro flow, are a bit quieter. close center hydraulics move the sounds away till used as well so a lot of the screaming hydro sounds are reduced.
so.. it "pretty" or "rugged".. your choice.. I have all of the above. a x600 series is right in the middle with some of the improvements but not all, and less quick to cavitate although you do hear about them occasionally.
so.. it "pretty" or "rugged".. your choice.. I have all of the above. a x600 series is right in the middle with some of the improvements but not all, and less quick to cavitate although you do hear about them occasionally.
I also wouldn't run a 10' hog on a 4600.
and I have actually done that with my 4600 just to see it. it's WAY too heavy for one thing.. plus I feel it's abusive to the pto clutch... though have no way to verify the abuse part.
I had to add front wheel weights AND a bumper and cast some concrete weights AND fill my fronts to run a HD servis 6' cutter 'safely' on the 4600 so that I can load it on my deckover without becoming a teeter totter..
slip was all in the fingers..
i sacrifice accuracy for mobility, since I'm not in one palce too long.. and if I am at home for any length of time.. I'm sleeping or beating on old iron...
and I have actually done that with my 4600 just to see it. it's WAY too heavy for one thing.. plus I feel it's abusive to the pto clutch... though have no way to verify the abuse part.
I had to add front wheel weights AND a bumper and cast some concrete weights AND fill my fronts to run a HD servis 6' cutter 'safely' on the 4600 so that I can load it on my deckover without becoming a teeter totter..
slip was all in the fingers..
i sacrifice accuracy for mobility, since I'm not in one palce too long.. and if I am at home for any length of time.. I'm sleeping or beating on old iron...
Shetland Sheepdog
Well-known Member
Mine does run right up on the edge of the red when mowing, but never seens to get to a boil. Unless working hard the temp stays normal.
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