5040 starter

[prawnfarmer]

Is there a trick to removing the starter from a 1978 Allis Chalmers 5040? The starter is so long there isn't room to pull the bendix out of the tractor before the front of the starter hits either the fuel or injector pumps in the front from about any angle I try. Surely the fuel pump doesn't have to be removed to get the starter out? It lacks maybe a 1/2" from coming out of the flywheel housing.

 

[gatz]

Seems other people have said that the fuel pump needs to be removed first.
I can look in the maintenance book tomorrow.

The replacement starter doesnt present the same problem.
Mine has a replacement type, and only required the removal of the 1st filter bowl (glass) when I installed a block heater.
The bolt that's in next to the block is somewhat hidden and a bear to get at.
I used an 11/16" (18mm bolt head) swivel socket and a couple of extensions to get at it.

 

[prawnfarmer]

I removed both the filter and the foot throttle rod. I was expecting a battle but I lucked out and the bolt came right out with a 17mm wrench and a cheater. I am concerned about removing the fuel pump because the fuel line is brazed to it. Is that the norm? Would appreciate your feedback about the pump removal when you get a chance to look at your manual. I sure don't want to mess with the injector pump above.

 

[gatz]

prawn,
Looked in the Service manual and it goes into detail about how to check the starter, but doesn't explain how to remove it from tractor.

Like I mentioned before, I had mine out to put in a block heater, but I know this one had a starter that was not original, and some others have said that the replacements were shorter or had more clearance so that the pump wouldn't have to be removed; which was the case for me.

BTW, it you need a part number for a block heater, I got mine from CarQuest and have the tag.

The tractor is not here, but I could take a look tomorrow to see what might be involved in removing it, and look at the pump lines.
Can the line(s) be left on pump and remove from opposite end?

Again, the Service manual shows a picture of the fuel pump but doesn't explain removal. Acoording to the picture, it looks like there's "banjo" fittings for input and output lines. Is that how yours is?
If so, just remove the stud(s), beign careful not to lose any softwashers.

And yes, that bolt probably was 17mm (not 18mm, didnt do my math right); an 11/16 six-point socket would fit OK.

I wouldn't mess with the injector pump either....surely they wouldn't design it so that the injection pump would have to be removed to get the starter out (???)

 

[Dalex]

I'm not familiar with your tractor , but if you are only lacking a half inch to clear the hole, how about taking the bolts out that hold it together, take off the end plate and kinda jiggle it out in pieces ?? If you can slide the field off past the pump , it will be a piece of cake. But even just the end plate might do it...

 

[associatedpowertrain]

give one of my parts guys a call 800-358 1103
allis chalmers parts and service

 

[prawnfarmer]

Good idea and I thought about it last night. By the time I took removing the depth of the starter end cap over the 2 studs I was going to be worse off due to hitting both the injector and fuel pumps.

 

[prawnfarmer]

My service manual is a Jensales and it didn't go into any detail, either. You were right and I ended up getting the starter out about 9:30 tonight by removing the banjo fittings and loosening the fuel pump and prying with 2 screwdrivers. I bet I have a lot of fuel pump priming lever time in store. There is a stud sticking out of the block behind where the starter was. Is it for some sort of sending unit? Where did you find room to mount a block heater? I use this Allis as my chore tractor and a T-250 Bobcat for maintenance on our shrimp ponds.

 

[gatz]

The Service Manual I have is a Jensales also.
They aren't the best, but are sure alot of help.

I don't recall the stud, but probably wasn't too concerned at the time and may have overlooked it.

The CarQuest #79849 block heater went into the rear opening. Took a while to get the darned thing out.
And, of course, it got stuck inside the casting...had a heckuva time with it.


The primary filter lower bowl in the picture is glass; be careful.