'52 8N Electrical Issue

The stud with the battery cable hooked to it should have battery voltage. The stud with the strap going to the starter motor will not have voltage until the solenoid is energized.

If the original starter button is used it grounds the small terminal to energize the solenoid. Some solenoids can only be hooked up one way to work.

Can you test continuity? If so, test for continuity between the stud the starter strap is hooked to and the small stud that has the wire from the starter button hooked to it. If there is continuity between those two the battery cable and the starter strap need to swap studs so that the small terminal gets powered via the battery cable; the starter button will then provide a ground for the solenoid to pull in and energize the starter.
 
If the original starter button is used it grounds the small terminal to energize the solenoid. Some solenoids can only be hooked up one way to work.

Can you test continuity? If so, test for continuity between the stud the starter strap is hooked to and the small stud that has the wire from the starter button hooked to it. If there is continuity between those two the battery cable and the starter strap need to swap studs so that the small terminal gets powered via the battery cable; the starter button will then provide a ground for the solenoid to pull in and energize the starter.
I agree, this expounds on my reply 16. Jim L’s reply 20 basically makes the same check with a volt meter.
 
I’ve tried to find where to enter the forum with my question, but I don’t see a clear way(?). Help!!

Front mount distributer, new 6 volt coil, new points and condenser. Engine operated and after trying to start again — now no spark again.

New carburetor acting now the same as the old carburetor - floats inside the carburetor will not stop the fuel from overfilling the carburetor (?).

Ken Sikora 1
When you are on this forum page, at the top right hand corner there is a link to post a new comment. easy peasy!
 
Not sure what you mean by "non grounded side of the battery". Would this be the positive battery post with the grounding cable removed from the battery?
 
"Non grounded side" only means the side not grounded. Does not suggest pulling off the ground cable.
Your 51 12 volt 8n IS negative ground--- right?

Here is a N solenoid.
Blue arrows point to the electromagnetic coil wire ends. One to the small terminal, and the other to the rear facing big lug. They should have continuity. ( maybe .7 ish ohms) The small terminal will show battery volts. (dont need to push the starter button, it's hot as long as the battery is connected up to the tractor)
8256.jpg

Screwdriver showes the defection ability of the copper contact disk. (pic showes an "extra" contact/plunger)

When you got battery volts across the solenoid (between large posts) its because the starter post (field terminal) connects to ground through the field coils, and armature windings. It's a good reading.
 
Not sure what you mean by "non grounded side of the battery". Would this be the positive battery post with the grounding cable removed from the battery?
Clarify for us, what ground your tractor is using. It was originally 6-volt positive ground. You have posted it was converted to 12 volts, but not the ground. That is why Jim L said the non-grounded side of the battery. Until you say outright which side is ground we are only assuming which it is.

As for your solenoid test in post 14, it is not correct. See the instructions I gave you in post 21. The single small terminal needs to show power all the time for the grounding starter button to work, that requires continuity between one large terminal and the small terminal. And the cable from the battery needs to be on that large terminal.

Edit to correct spelling
 
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OK, answer the question of which battery terminal connects to the frame of the tractor(ground). Follow what Jim and soaked have said. I am thinking you put the solenoid on backwards but that's just a guess. Do their tests and tell us what you get.
 
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