'52 8n generator - Is it bad?

[Ben Hastings]

I"ve gone through and replaced all of the wiring, voltage regulator, distributor cap, rotor, plugs, wires and the tractor ran fine all last summer.

Towards the end of the fall (when it started cooling off) I had trouble starting. I checked and the battery was drained. I may have a faulty ammeter on the dash, and I just picked up a hand-held multi-meter to test, but I"m not getting the engine to start (cranks, sparks, but no ignition i.e. not running).

My guess is there is something wrong with the generator, but I"m not quite sure how to go about testing it and I don"t want to replace it if it"s not necessary.

This is all original or OEM 6v (I used the hotter autolite spark plugs - everything else is spec).

Any help is appreciated.

 

[Den N Ms]

Ben ,The generator has nothing to do with tractor not running,except for not charging the battery back up.Fully charge the battery up. Or remove it and take it to a parts store for a free check.Replace charged/new battery.A engine has to have 3 things to run 1. Spark 2.Compression 3.Fuel in the correct air/fuel ratio.Check for fuel flow through the carb.Open the fuel shutoff valve 2 turns then with a catch can held under the carb remove the plug thats in the bottom.it should have a good stream flowing out for 2-3 minutes and a full pint to a quart of gas.If not your fuel screens and tank need to be cleaned.When you get it started check your oil pressure and the amp gauges.If not showing charge remove the generator and have it checked/rebuilt.

 

[souNdguy]

ditto what the other poster said. you can unbolt the genny and toss it out the window and start the tractor on the battery.. get her running and look elsewhere other than the gen.

now.. as for the gen.. do a motor test on her.. ground field, and jump bat to armature.. no belt on.. if she spins, she should charge.

if she don't spin.. she needs rebuilding or replacement.

if she does spin, check yer wireing and the vreg. I reccomend a full field test.. if that don't bring up charge, then bypass cutout ( bat to arm ) and then full field test again. full field = grounding field

post back

soundguy

 

[Dell (WA)]

Ben.......AutoLite 437's is the recommended sparkie for todays un-leaded gasoline. Good choice.

You write........"I"ve gone through and replaced all of the wiring, voltage regulator"......and......"My guess is there is something wrong with the generator"........uh? didja remember to "POLARIZE" yer new squarecan voltage regulator???

Iff'n you don't polarize yer squarecan voltage regulator, guess what??? Yer battery won't gitt charged. Isn't that amazing???

And it is simple enuff to do. Just short the side-by-side ARM & BAT terminals together, engine OFF. I use a wideblade screwdriver. You can use barb'd warr iff'n you want. You can "polarize" yer squarecan voltage regulator as many times as it takes to feel warm and fuzzy ...er... charged. .......Dell the charger

 

[Jason1Pa]

Would the key switch be in the on or off possition?

 

[pikewi]

Off


BEER!

 

[Dell (WA)]

Jason.......I wrote......."And it is simple enuff to do. Just short the side-by-side ARM & BAT terminals together, engine OFF".......generally that would imply the ignition switch is OFF ........respectfully, Dell

 

[Jason1Pa]

Thats what I was think Dell just wanted to make sure. You could still have the switch "on" and not have the engine running. Thanks again!

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 17:58:23 03/26/11) Thats what I was think Dell just wanted to make sure. You could still have the switch "on" and not have the engine running. Thanks again!

act of the matter is that you could have the key ON or OFF (engine NOT running) and polarize the GENERATOR just fine, but there is NO polarization of the regulator (key ON, OFF, or anywhere in between). You just take the shorting action AT the regulator, because the terminals are convenient!
You can polarize the generator without a regulator & then install the regulator. You can even throw the regulator away, polarize the generator & connect it to the battery & run the engine & charge the battery! :roll:

 

[Ben Hastings]

I have a feeling this MAY be the problem, because I did not polarize the generator after replacing the wiring.

However, the ammeter displayed the same behavior before I replaced the wiring. I just figured it was a bad meter, but the simplicity of that type of measurement has me questioning that assumption.

I spent all day between caring for a new kid (had to get a heat lamp set up - he came earlier than expected) and caring for our three healthy children while the fourth was down sick with the wife. I'll try polarizing tomorrow after we get back from church if everyone is feeling well enough, then I'll report back.