52 8N ignition problems

[monsterpt]

While trying to fix the leak from the underside of the governor I have changed the RPMs on the tractor. Before taking the governor off and cleaning the gasket, resealing etc I had maximum 2200 rpms. After the fix (no more leak), I am down to 1500 rpm max. I did not do anything to the governor when I had it off. I tried to keep everything lined up to avoid any possible issue.

What did not change is that the throttle still only seems to have an effect in the top 1/3 of the quadrant. I have had that issue since I bought the tractor.

Any thoughts on the RPM reduction and the issue with the quadrant position?

 

[monsterpt]

After that, I was trying to adjust the throttle control arm and the linkage to/from the governor and it was running poorly.

Then I was going to make a slight adjustment to the timing since it has been off for a while as indicated by the popping exhaust. Now it won't start.

Probably a case of trying to adjust to much at one time but if anyone can help me sort through some of the issues I would appreciate the help.

 

[R Geiger]

Classic case of fixing it until it is broke!!

Go back and set the timing as directed in FO-4 service manual. If you do not have one, now would be a very good time to get one.
good luck

 

[8N'r--WI]

Could you have hooked the throttle rods up wrong?

Long rod to long arm on governor and short rod to short arm on governor....easy to hook up backwards.

Tim

 

[Bruce (VA)]

First, check out tip # 39.

If you do not have a set of manuals, now is the time to get them. That will tell you how to adjust the governor.

Where you trying to adjust the timing by ear? If so, you just learned something that many of us learned 40 years ago....it ain't gonna happen.

Remove the #1 spark plug. (removing all of them makes the job a bit easier) Ignition off, place your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole and crank slowly until compression is felt. Continue to crank the engine until you see the timing mark, 0* (top dead center) on the flywheel through the timing hole in the right side of the bell housing. Use chalk on the flywheel to exactly align the 4 degree mark with the pointer. Hold the distributor beside the engine. W/ the distributor oiler at the 7 o’clock position & the stud at 9 o’clock, turn the rotor until it points roughly at the right front head bolt. (close counts) Now insert the distributor. Rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the points are closed. Put the cap on & double check the plug wires, 1-2-4-3, CCW. Then, remove the primary wire from the side of the distributor (or at the coil, whichever is easier) Put one lead of your VOM (set on resistance) on the stud on the side of the distributor & the other on the block or other good ground. Slowly turn the distributor. The needle will move as the points close & then open. Find the exact spot just as the points open & then tighten down the distributor.

Now check your work (and the dynamic timing) w/ a light.

If it won't idle below 500 rpm (400 is better) don't bother w/ a light.

If it idles ok, make 3 marks w/ chalk or white paint on the flywheel:

4*
10*
17*

Start the engine.

At idle, the light should flash & the marker should line up exactly at 4* if you did the static timing correctly.

If not, loosen the distributor & turn it until the marks line up. It should take very little adjustment.

Once you've got that done, increase the engine speed to 1200 rpms. The light should flash & the marker should line up w/ the 10* mark. Then, increase the rpms to 2000 & look for the marker to align w/ the 17* mark.

Close counts on the advanced timing. A degree or 2 either way is ok. But, no movement or 5* or more off means you have an advance weight problem. You don't adjust the distributor to fix that.
75 Tips

 

[monsterpt]

Thanks for the feedback. I"ll give these suggestions a shot tonight and give an update.

 

[monsterpt]

Bruce, you said the following:

"W/ the distributor oiler at the 7 o’clock position & the stud at 9 o’clock, turn the rotor until it points roughly at the right front head bolt. (close counts) Now insert the distributor. Rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the points are closed."

when I position the distributor in this fashion, then insert, it spins until the rotor no longer points to the number 1 plug wire, but to the coil instead. Is this correct or am I supposed to have the rotor pointing to the number 1 plug when seated? I am still not getting spark.

 

[JCinKY]

(quoted from post at 02:01:58 10/29/13) Bruce, you said the following:

"W/ the distributor oiler at the 7 o’clock position & the stud at 9 o’clock, turn the rotor until it points roughly at the right front head bolt. (close counts) Now insert the distributor. Rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the points are closed."

when I position the distributor in this fashion, then insert, it spins until the rotor no longer points to the number 1 plug wire, but to the coil instead. Is this correct or am I supposed to have the rotor pointing to the number 1 plug when seated? I am still not getting spark.

Your close, but sounds like like you are a tooth off on the gear mesh.

Try it again, but start with the rotor point to #2 or #3 and see if it rotates to #1 hole as the gears mesh together.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

As JC said, you're one tooth off. That's a helical gear on the shaft; it turns when it meshes w/ the camshaft.

Pull it out, turn it back & try again.

 

[monsterpt]

OK, I performed the set up and got the distributor installed as directed by the FO-4 manual and the instructions above. Turned the dist until the points just start to open. When I try to test the resistance during points opening/closing I get no needle movement on my VOM. I have a good ground just no effect from the VOM.

I replaced the points and condenser cuz I had a burnt spot on my points and I had a new set already. I am thinking something might be going on with the coil or the dist/coil connection. I'll test that today as per manual but any thoughts?

 

[monsterpt]

No spark from coil primary wire with cranking.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 10:27:43 11/02/13) No spark from coil primary wire with cranking.

 

[monsterpt]

Thanks for the pic. Figured out I was getting a short from a hole in the insulator. I have to manufacture a copper strip, there is a piece of wire serving that purpose now. Keep finding those little "shade tree" fixes everywhere.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

(quoted from post at 15:02:56 11/03/13) Thanks for the pic. Figured out I was getting a short from a hole in the insulator. I have to manufacture a copper strip, there is a piece of wire serving that purpose now. Keep finding those little "shade tree" fixes everywhere.

" I have to manufacture a copper strip"

That's easy to do...but somethings are just easier & in the long run cheaper to buy. Get the strip, 12209, screw 350032-S, 12233 bushing & 12234 insulator & just replace it all.