52 A overheating

[Nimrod77]

My 52 A is overheating after putting in aluminum radiator. I have a pump on it now too. Running through a valve to adjust flow rate. Nothing seems to help. Goes up to 200 quickly. Flushed system. New antifreeze etc.
any thoughts?

 

[greenmech]

My 52 A is overheating after putting in aluminum radiator. I have a pump on it now too. Running through a valve to adjust flow rate. Nothing seems to help. Goes up to 200 quickly. Flushed system. New antifreeze etc.
any thoughts?

If you didn't have the water pump I would have said to mix the anti freeze when you pour it in. That was my problem on 44 A. Maybe the core is not as big as before. Ron MN

 

[ET]

How many rows of tubes does the core have? A lot aftermarket cores only have 3 rows of tubes and that isn't enough.

 

[Mark-Ia]

They were designed to run at 200 degrees.

 

[Watthour]

They were designed to run at 200 degrees.

...Probably for kerosene operation. That's pretty common on lots of two-holers, even those without dual fuel.

 

[Watthour]

Just an off-the-wall question, but is the pump circulating in the same direction as the gravity flow would have done? If the pump is discharging into the bottom hose, that could seriously reduce cooling efficiency. I had an add-on pump on a '46 A that looked like it could have been pretty easily have been installed backward.

*

 

[JIM MN]

Did you put on a water pump? What is the VALVE you are running through to adjust flow rate? If you have a water pump, is it working? Your new valve, you do not need to adjust flow rate.

 

[Nimrod77]

It’s a 3 row I put a brass valve on after this pic thinking my pump was to fast flow rate so this would slow it down to cool 200 of normal but it heats up so fast just at idle and starts overflowing I don’t want to overheat to much to cause more issues View attachment IMG_4303.jpeg

 

[Pete in MD]

Watthour,

" If the pump is discharging into the bottom hose, that could seriously reduce cooling efficiency."

In a thermosyphon cooling system water moves Downward through the radiator and into the bottom hose.

Are you saying that with the addition of a water pump water moves out of the lower hose and upward through the radiator?

 

[wore out]

My 52 A is overheating after putting in aluminum radiator. I have a pump on it now too. Running through a valve to adjust flow rate. Nothing seems to help. Goes up to 200 quickly. Flushed system. New antifreeze etc.
any thoughts?

Are you SURE the pump is actually circulating coolant, with the orientation it is mounted in it could be airlocking and pumping little or no coolant.

If it IS flowing coolant it seems inconceivable it could overheat quickly at idle.

 

[Nimrod77]

I’m new to jd and this so I’m learning. . I can tell it’s moving water I can hear it when engine is off and I have power to it. Sounds like water flushing through. I’m pulling out of bottom of radiator through pump and into bottom of the block.

 

[JIM MN]

What are you using this tractor for that you are getting over 200 degrees coolant temp? Show a side view of the water pump area?

 

[Nimrod77]

Here is the latest after I put in valve.
I’m gonna use it for a puller
I have a brand new guage in it as well.

 

[Watthour]

Watthour,

" If the pump is discharging into the bottom hose, that could seriously reduce cooling efficiency."

In a thermosyphon cooling system water moves Downward through the radiator and into the bottom hose.

Are you saying that with the addition of a water pump water moves out of the lower hose and upward through the radiator?

No, coolant flow should remain just as with the gravity system, albeit pump assisted. The pump on the '46 looked like it could have been plumbed either way, which would have opposed the normal coolant flow.

The photo posted by Nimro77 shows the center connection (inlet) to the volute of the pump connected to the lower radiator hose, which should be correct.

 

[JIM MN]

Nimrod 77: Some thoughts for you to try. I would take out the flow rate valve. And make sure your pump is pulling the coolant down in the radiator and out to the head and block. The radiator? You need one with more tubes? You know, you might try running straight water and a water pump lub with a anti-rust. You may get some cooler coolant temperatures?

 

[ET]

Are you bushing it down to 1/2" or 3/4"? You might not have enough flow to start with.

 

[Watthour]

Just another dumb-guy question, but what direction is the pump motor spinning? It appears to be DC, after all.

 

[Nimrod77]

It’s pulling from bottom of radiator through pump, through valve, into block. I’ll definitely try flush too. I did flush straight water. But this thing is puzzling me.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

Are you bushing it down to 1/2" or 3/4"? You might not have enough flow to start with.

I think ET got it right. That's quite a lot of restriction between the pump and the head. Why did you put a flow valve in the loop? What is the square loop behind the air intake?

 

[Fixingfarmer]

I think ET got it right. That's quite a lot of restriction between the pump and the head. Why did you put a flow valve in the loop? What is the square loop behind the air intake?

I agree. Open the valve up I see it’s at 3/4 that’s a small pipe with Water pump or not. Why create a restriction if it’s getting that hot?

The thermosiphon G had a 3 inch one the other day and the b has a 2. With that fan shaft gone you coulda put a big ole pump in there and left the giant radiator. Both my thermosiphons copper radiator you have to put a piece of cardboard in front of it to get them to 190 when they are clean. Or absolutely lug them on the generator for at least 15 minutes which is 4 times as long as what you are attempting. So I’m betting the restriction is your issue.

200 is on the higher side but it will be ok for 300 feet 175 to 190 is your goal all day.
220 is considered hot.