530 Hydraulic Leak.

[L.Fure]

My 530 has a major leak between the torque tube and transmission. The last time I removed the excess oil from the transmission, and topped up the oil in the torque tube, I parked the tractor in the barn with the eagle hitch arms all the way down.
I did this to see how much oil is coming through the seals between the torque tube, and not the internal eagle hitch piston. It turns out that it is a lot of oil migrating from the torque tube. I didn't have enough hydraulic oil to lift the front loader over head high after the tractor had sat for a month. I read, in a Farm Show magazine, where someone with the same problem had connected the torque tube drain to the transmission drain. This person said it was an easier way to keep both reservoir's oil at the same level. Has anyone tried this?

 

[L.Fure]

I should have explained that a hydraulic hose was used to connect the two drain holes together in the article I read.

 

[John Saeli]

The problem with the hose solution is that the level would need to be run way over full in the tranny-diff to maintain a safe level in the range housing. Remember, the oil in the range housing not only serves the hyd. pump, but also lubes the range shaft & gears.
In my experience, rarely are the seals between the torque tube & tranny leaking. If it isn't the rockshaft piston, it is always the pto shaft seal, between the 4 sp housing & the diff. housing. On our 630 w/ a loader, when parked, I lift the loader all the way up, & back up on an incline.

 

[Bruce from Can.]

We did that hose thing on the 530 I had years ago,
waste of time and hose. Still had to split the tractor

 

[L.Fure]

(quoted from post at 22:09:29 07/06/18) The problem with the hose solution is that the level would need to be run way over full in the tranny-diff to maintain a safe level in the range housing. Remember, the oil in the range housing not only serves the hyd. pump, but also lubes the range shaft & gears.
In my experience, rarely are the seals between the torque tube & tranny leaking. If it isn't the rockshaft piston, it is always the pto shaft seal, between the 4 sp housing & the diff. housing. On our 630 w/ a loader, when parked, I lift the loader all the way up, & back up on an incline.

The PTO seals must be at fault then. I thought I had both ends filled with Case/IH trans/hydraulic fluid after I bought the tractor, but since I had the brake disc and seals replaced at a shop the mechanic had put 90W back in the trans/rear differential and hydraulic oil in the torque tube. I'll have to drain it again and buy some more of the trans/hydraulic oil to fill everything with it again. Then after the transmission gets too full I'll suck out the extra oil and put it back into the torque tube.

 

[L.Fure]

(quoted from post at 23:18:59 07/06/18) We did that hose thing on the 530 I had years ago,
waste of time and hose. Still had to split the tractor

I'll forget the hose trick then.

 

[John Saeli]

85W140 is the correct oil for the tranny-diff. You can have a 50% mix of 85W140 in the Range housing with the thin panther pi$$ and unless you use the hyd's below 30 degrees, there will be no problem.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

I have changed out PTO shaft seals on several tractors 300RN up to and including early 430 (1960-1964). I don't know what year your 530 is but I have been involved with several PTO seal changeout YT posts. My tractor pics are 310RN by are essential the same as early 530 with standard PTO prior to serial 8262800 and possibly later. P/n's are almost all the same.

Rather than me writing and posting pics go to this post, read up on it. If you have questions I will try to answer them. I think in that thread I stated that the double lipped seal was no longer available, that is incorrect check with John Saeli. Zach is a very good mechanic, he can help you also if he sees this post.

Joe
http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t 1303172&highlight

 

[L.Fure]

(quoted from post at 02:12:43 07/07/18) 85W140 is the correct oil for the tranny-diff. You can have a 50% mix of 85W140 in the Range housing with the thin panther pi$$ and unless you use the hyd's below 30 degrees, there will be no problem.

I hear conflicting opinions on this subject every time it is brought up. Some say it is okay to fill everything with the Case/IH-trans/hydraulic oil and transfer the overflow back into the torque tube when necessary. Others say it will cause trouble in the future. My 530 doesn't get used very hard. It is used mostly for moving snow in the winter, and any heavy lifting, which isn't very often. Other than that it just sits in the barn.

 

[L.Fure]

Joe (Wa),

If I decide to replace the seal I'll have to have someone else do the work for me. I'm unable to do these things anymore. I'll print your post to give to anyone that does this work for me. In the meantime I'll fill everything with Case/IH-trans/hydraulic oil and transfer the excess oil back into the torque tube every so often.

 

[John Saeli]

Joe: The original seal is a wide seal, but only a small lip, it's all metal cage. We stock a narrow cage, double lipped seal and suggest to our customers to put 2 in, side by side, as there is that much room for them.
We have a customer who had some damage on the inside the retainer, so he did some machining & installed a sealed bearing.

 

[kevinthefixer]

(quoted from post at 05:21:16 07/07/18) Joe: The original seal is a wide seal, but only a small lip, it's all metal cage. We stock a narrow cage, double lipped seal and suggest to our customers to put 2 in, side by side, as there is that much room for them.
We have a customer who had some damage on the inside the retainer, so he did some machining & installed a sealed bearing.

John, that had to take some exact machine work! Just getting the bearing in might be standard stuff with a line bore, but it would have to have a slot cut for an o-ring seal or it would leak anyway, and a couple more for e-clips to hold it in place. Sounds like a near-bulletproof fix, though, if you can pull it off.

 

[John Saeli]

I simplified the fix, as he went into detail, but it was last Winter & I forgot the details. He's pretty clever for sure, and he told me the repair worked great.

 

[Zach81]

Hi Joe. Hope all is well with you. I hope this gentleman can read our previous posts and get everything fixed up like we did on my 530. Also you mentioned the year of the tractor. If it has draft control and he does any sort of use it is always going to maintain that height while running and not realize it is doing so. If the linkage isn't quit right and the hitch isnt totally bottoming out it will be aggravating his problem.

 

[L.Fure]

(quoted from post at 06:37:31 07/08/18) Hi Joe. Hope all is well with you. I hope this gentleman can read our previous posts and get everything fixed up like we did on my 530. Also you mentioned the year of the tractor. If it has draft control and he does any sort of use it is always going to maintain that height while running and not realize it is doing so. If the linkage isn't quit right and the hitch isnt totally bottoming out it will be aggravating his problem.

I forgot that piece of information. My 530 is a 1960 model.