540 value ?

[dick benson]

I looked at a 540 with draft control. He was asking $1900.00. I see he came down to $1500.00 now. I offered him 1K. It needs a complete seat assembly, new complete lift arm crank assembly & swinging drawbar. The throttle linkage is missing below the fuel tank, maybe several parts? Needs a L rear fender.
Rear 16.9 x 24 tires are pretty good. Has car tires on front. Original paint, needs repainted. Side panels are missing along with SN# plate. 12 speed, live PTO. Engine runs good.

 

[casenut1]

With that much missing I would be at scrap price or just aboe it.

 

[Glenn F.]

$1,000 would be a good price.

On a different note, in installing a VAC rear axle seal (using an aluminum can for shim stock) would you hit the seal in with a large punch? A large pipe would cover the aluminum so I wouldn't know what was going on.

Hopefully I won't hijack your thread.


Thank you,
Glenn F.

 

[Christopher Mikesell]

I removed and reinstalled an original axle seal on my VAC-14, 4 or 5 years ago. I still have no leaks. I used a PVC pipe which fit over the axle and positioned it so that it would only push on the outer rim of the seal. I worked around the seal slowly as I drove it straight in with a rubber hammer. I only drove the seal in flush with the surface of the casting, not all of the way into the housing. I removed the seal to inspect the bearing before resetting the end play on the shaft.

 

[dick benson]

I would use very thin metal, shim material over the axle and gently tap the seal in flush like Christoper says. A blunt punch is the last resort. You would tap it gently in several different places, but some kind of pipe like PVC would be best so it goes in even. If you lubricate the seal and the shim material with plenty of say vasoline you should not have an issue if you push the seal in straight. I would gently pull the shim material out after the seal is in place. If it is a new seal, the lip should not fold back while installing. Make sure the lip goes inward. Dick

 

[KYCASE1]

Glenn. Any time I put a seal on a shaft with splines or a key way, I clean the shaft real good and even wipe it with mineral spirits or some cleaner to remove all the oil and grease. Then I use black electrical tape and rap the shaft overlapping the tape a little less than half starting closest to were the seal rides the shaft. I then put a small coat of oil on the tape. Most of the time the seal will slide over any splines, key ways and step ups it shaft without any damage. I know this is about as clear as mud but maybe it will help. Dennis.

 

[DENNIS MIN]

kycse1.

That tape idea is NOT as clear s mud.

I am going to use that idea/method.

D>