55' Ferguson TE(AD)20

[T@G]

Hello. First, thanks for letting me join in. Been reading this forum for half-an-year since stumbling upon this. I have an question i didnt find answer from here, so i thought its now time to join, but thought to present myself first. Im from Finland by the way.

I have an bitsa 55' TED, with assorted parts from TEA, like distributor, older front hubs with oil fill, etc, but "restored" to present itself nicely, and another one at bits on shed.

I live on an old, long unused farm ( not my day job), slowly taking it back to its former glory, and using this tractor as my tool, since i both enjoy old machines, and can combine hobby with it.

So far its been blading driveway, both grading gravel and removing snow, making ice-skate ring on lake. Lifting and moving whatever comes to mind, like piling brushwood, pulling my boat with home-made trailer which serves as dock on summer time aswell. And its my go-to logging machine with forklifts! Fits wherever you dare to take it at forest, offering nice break from physical work when you get your forks full and drive them to pile waiting to get split ( more from that aswell, later).
Just basically, my multitool. Dropping few photos, later!

 

[John Deere D]

Hello. First, thanks for letting me join in. Been reading this forum for half-an-year since stumbling upon this. I have an question i didnt find answer from here, so i thought its now time to join, but thought to present myself first. Im from Finland by the way.

I have an bitsa 55' TED, with assorted parts from TEA, like distributor, older front hubs with oil fill, etc, but "restored" to present itself nicely, and another one at bits on shed.

I live on an old, long unused farm ( not my day job), slowly taking it back to its former glory, and using this tractor as my tool, since i both enjoy old machines, and can combine hobby with it.

So far its been blading driveway, both grading gravel and removing snow, making ice-skate ring on lake. Lifting and moving whatever comes to mind, like piling brushwood, pulling my boat with home-made trailer which serves as dock on summer time aswell. And its my go-to logging machine with forklifts! Fits wherever you dare to take it at forest, offering nice break from physical work when you get your forks full and drive them to pile waiting to get split ( more from that aswell, later).
Just basically, my multitool. Dropping few photos, later!

Welcome T@G to the "YT" group. Beautiful pictures.Your Tractor looks .........And yes, I own a Ferguson TEA-20 that has been on my property since new,original 6 volt system,and still works 100%.I've purchased three TEA-20 Parts tractors,never know when a part shall be required........

 

[Duner Wi]

Welcome. Great for you for having the best tractor in the world considering it's age and size. I have a T0 20 for over 50 years.

 

[Ray,IN]

Welcome! If you want a service or owners manual visit this link after you remove all spaces from the link: https://www.n tractorclub.com/forums/manuals/manuals.htm#tractors
I've owned a TO20, and a TO30 that had a hand clutch kit to make it effectively live PTO. I regret selling both of them.

 

[John Deere D]

Hello. First, thanks for letting me join in. Been reading this forum for half-an-year since stumbling upon this. I have an question i didnt find answer from here, so i thought its now time to join, but thought to present myself first. Im from Finland by the way.

I have an bitsa 55' TED, with assorted parts from TEA, like distributor, older front hubs with oil fill, etc, but "restored" to present itself nicely, and another one at bits on shed.

I live on an old, long unused farm ( not my day job), slowly taking it back to its former glory, and using this tractor as my tool, since i both enjoy old machines, and can combine hobby with it.

So far its been blading driveway, both grading gravel and removing snow, making ice-skate ring on lake. Lifting and moving whatever comes to mind, like piling brushwood, pulling my boat with home-made trailer which serves as dock on summer time aswell. And its my go-to logging machine with forklifts! Fits wherever you dare to take it at forest, offering nice break from physical work when you get your forks full and drive them to pile waiting to get split ( more from that aswell, later).
Just basically, my multitool. Dropping few photos, later!

May I ask,have you ever removed the head and or oil pan from a TEA-20 Tractor engine?
They are a superior designed engine. WET independent replaceable cylinders. .......... NOT dry sleeves.
Bob...

 

[T@G]

No i havent, since havent had any need to do so.
Only bigger project on the pipe is leaking gearbox case ( pin hole), fixing it properly or changing the gearbox altogether. Now it drips a drop of oil every now and then. But not in a hurry with it, either.

 

[used red MN]

TG, a big welcome to you and your part of the world (Finland) to YT!

 

[John Deere D]

No i havent, since havent had any need to do so.
Only bigger project on the pipe is leaking gearbox case ( pin hole), fixing it properly or changing the gearbox altogether. Now it drips a drop of oil every now and then. But not in a hurry with it, either.

TEA-20 Engine.
Overhauled, and am keeping as a spare.
NOTE..
Never, turn engine over with HEAD REMOVED, until you have a locking system in place, to prevent, free standing power cylinders from moving!

 

[Ark68SS]

NOTE..
Never, turn engine over with HEAD REMOVED, until you have a locking system in place, to prevent, free standing power cylinders from moving!

Instead of saying “Turn engine over” best to say “Never rotate crankshaft “.
BillL

 

[John Deere D]

Instead of saying “Turn engine over” best to say “Never rotate crankshaft “.
BillL

Yes Sir..........a big difference indeed from flipping the engine over 180 deg's verses rotating the crankshaft.
Thanks........

 

[Charles in Aus.]

If you are referring to the hole under the bell housing don't block it up . It's supposed to be there to drain any oil leaking from the rear engine main seal . If it can't drain it will contaminate the clutch .
An old saying in Ferguson ( and Landrover ) circles , " If there is no oil under it , there's no.oil in it " !

 

[John Deere D]

TEA-20 Engine.
Overhauled, and am keeping as a spare.
NOTE..
Never, turn engine over with HEAD REMOVED, until you have a locking system in place, to prevent, free standing power cylinders from moving!

My suggestion, pertaining to the FREE STANDING individual power sleeves should have read when rotating the crankshaft.
Bob..

 

[John Deere D]

No i havent, since havent had any need to do so.
Only bigger project on the pipe is leaking gearbox case ( pin hole), fixing it properly or changing the gearbox altogether. Now it drips a drop of oil every now and then. But not in a hurry with it, either.

Take note of Charles in Aus. Comments..........
See pictures below:
"IF" oil is leaking from purposely designed PORT..
you may have a LEAKING REAR CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL,or
a leaking oil seal on the Transmission Input shaft,
or the oil sump is over filled.
The TEA20 oil sump is a common oil sump for the Transmission,Differential,and Hydraulics.

INFO:
Siamese gaskets, seal the free standing Power Cylinders,to prevent engine coolant from entering Crankcase.

Bob...

​

 

[T@G]

Im far far away from the tractor currently, but the hole and leakage is in close proximity of oil drain plug of gearbox, like 5 inches max.

 

[Duner Wi]

Here is a possibility more likely if it has sat with water in transmission.

O

Thread 'TE 20 trans case rotting'

Apr 30, 2018

I have a 48 TE20 that was my grandfathers and we have dug it out and started working it on our deer lease. It has the aluminum trans case and has started corroding from the inside out. I?m looking into welding an aluminum patch over the entire bottom side. Has anyone else had this happen? What would cause this?

• Ohsoslow
• Replies: 6
• Forum: Harry Ferguson

 

[Charles in Aus.]

Im far far away from the tractor currently, but the hole and leakage is in close proximity of oil drain plug of gearbox, like 5 inches max.

There are two , one further to the rear . From the factory they were fitted c with split pins ( aka cotter pins ) . Their purpose was to keep the hole clear of debris as grass or brush the tractor passed over rotated the pin .

 

[T@G]

Lovely wife took an picture. Which is, somehow, again turned 90 degree from the photo on my phone.. But, this cotter pin is then after all original? Can be seen before that "hump".

That would be good news, but needs fixing that leak anycase at some point. Not in a hurry, original or not ( hole).

 

[John Deere D]

Lovely wife took an picture. Which is, somehow, again turned 90 degree from the photo on my phone.. But, this cotter pin is then after all original? Can be seen before that "hump".

That would be good news, but needs fixing that leak anycase at some point. Not in a hurry, original or not ( hole).

At the end of a 12 inch ratchet,I noticed the ratchet would move 2" between Clockwise and counterclockwise before the rotor would move. The ROTOR DRIVE on my TEA 20 S#182991 was sloppy and the rotor was starting to contact the CONTACT points inside the Distributor CAP. I replaced the BALL Bearing assembly (inside the distributor assembly) and the amount of side movement / slop of the rotor drive is now nothing.

My second TEA 20 S#251562 the drive TANG on the end of the DISTRIBUTOR shaft was so badly worn it would misfire.
Information from a TEA-20 FERGUSON made in England with a POSITIVE GROUND /6 Volts. The COIL has three connections, CENTER HIGH VOLTAGE LEAD to DIST., "SW" and "CB". SW.. Connected to 6 VOLTS supplied FROM IGNITION SWITCH and CB connected to CONTACT BREAKER in Distributor
.
INFO located in an original HARRY FERGUSON SERVICE MANUAL. With engine running/ operating there is 4 volts from "CB" available to contact Breaker in Distributor.
Please note. The DRIVE TANG on the end of the DISTRIBUTOR on all three of my TEA -20's is OFF CENTER. The drive key way on the GEAR DRIVE matting with the CAMSHAFT is also off center.

My TEA 20 acted up. I placed a socket on the head of the "CAP SCREW" that holds the pulley to the CRANKSHAFT .
Then turned the crankshaft Clockwise until the rotor (remove distributor cap and view rotor)started to move. Then turned crankshaft counter clockwise until the rotor started to move, and found that the TIMING chain, as well as both the CAM sprocket and Crank sprocket had to be replaced. Once I opened up the front cover the GOVERNOR assembly also had to be replaced.

Info compiled when REPLACING Crank sprocket ,Cam sprocket and Timing Chain.
(1) 85 MM Bore Engine:

(2) Front Lip Oil Seal "National /Federal Mogul Lip Seal" # 472164V
A SMALL amount of BLUE Silicone was placed around the inside bore of the front timing chain cover before Lip seal was installed:

(3) I installed a repair SLEEVE on the front drive Pulley, make "DURA SLEEVE" # 99175. The sealing area were the LIP SEAL makes contact was slightly grooved. Dura Sleeve specs. 1.745">1.753" Diam. # 68 Rockwell Hardness:

(4) On installation the Governor plunger shall be reseeded tight against the Flyweights and no weights shall be loose or hanging down:

(5) A small amount (only enough to make the surface shiny) of engine oil was added to the shaft of the governor PLUNGER as well as the timing chain:

(6) There were NO timing MARKS on the NEW Sprockets. You may wish to line the timing marks up (facing each other) before you remove the sprockets:

(7) Place the old sprocket (CAM SPROCKET) on top of the new sprockets and accurately scribe the new sprockets as to the timing marks. There are FOUR holes in the hub of the CAM SPROCKET.
Keep turning the old sprocket until the four holes and all teeth line up. These holes are slightly off set. I used several SHOULDERED cap screws to ensure I had the new and old sprockets properly aligned. You may have to flip the old sprocket over...see right up:
(8) It's good practice to measure the thickness of the hub of the old crankshaft sprocket and the new crankshaft sprocket as the teeth on the two sprockets should align for both proper operation and longevity.(there were shims between the old Crankshaft sprocket and the shoulder portion of the crankshaft):

Cheers
Bob...

Consider typing "TEA20 Back to life" in archives of this forum under the FERGUSON section and read all comments from "Griz/Bob (Aust)John(UK) and Tucker101
These gentleman seem to have a great handle on the TEA-20's There are several gentleman from the UK,Ireland,Australia and the USA with more experience than I have...

 

[John Deere D]

Lovely wife took an picture. Which is, somehow, again turned 90 degree from the photo on my phone.. But, this cotter pin is then after all original? Can be seen before that "hump".

That would be good news, but needs fixing that leak anycase at some point. Not in a hurry, original or not ( hole).

Timing chain and associated parts.
All Manuals purchased off e-bay..

 

[Charles in Aus.]

Lovely wife took an picture. Which is, somehow, again turned 90 degree from the photo on my phone.. But, this cotter pin is then after all original? Can be seen before that "hump".

That would be good news, but needs fixing that leak anycase at some point. Not in a hurry, original or not ( hole).

Seriously, unless the leak amounts to a litre a month I wouldn't bother .
It is something easily tolerated , I have seen little baby food tins suspended under them if the leak bothers a concrete floor , otherwise let it drip .
When the clutch eventually needs changing the rear main seal is easily done then .