'55 TO-35 clutch ???

[firehorse5_0]

I recently looked at a TO-35 that someone had partialy restored. The serial# reads "TO-35 141405" I was unable to detrmine if it has the dual clutch. It does not have power stearing, appers to have had a tractormeter but it is gone. The clutch is damaged so I was unable to check it by depressing the clutch. I looked through the inspection hole, but still couldn"t tell for sure. Was the dual clutch avalible in "55? Is there an easy way to tell which one it is? Thanks

 

[Paul in AZ]

Go to this link, then click on "Tractor Identification" which is the next to the last one on the list. This article will help you identify your tractor.
FENA Technical Tips

 

[firehorse5_0]

I did some loooking around on the FENA website and if you go to the link that you posted and click on the "TO-35 Model Compairsion" according to the SN I think that it does have the dual clutch. If You get a chance look and see if you agree with me. thanks

 

[Mark from the Fort]

I know that the hood could have been changed, but not very common..
Yes it was available in 55, the Deluxe models had the big pan seat, dual clutch, and full gauge cluster..4 gauges including the large tach in middle. I do have a 55 Special that has powersteering and tach, BUT, a single stage clutch.-so you can't always go by OLD STANDARDS.
If you cannot depress the clutch in its current state, I am not sure how else you could tell. On two stage clutches, you can feel a definite "two separate feelings" as yo push down.

 

[John (UK)]

Tricky if you can't check the Clutch.
Have a look at the PTO lever, if it has ground speed PTO it COULD be a live-drive, this isn't accurate as they did supply some non-live with it.but mostly they only had Engine PTO. Having no Tractormeter could just be that someone has removed the blanking plate. You should be able to tell which Clutch it is if you look inside. If you email me direct I will send a picture of what it looks like and then you will know what Clutch it [email protected]

 

[firehorse5_0]

John, a picture would be of great help. I will send you an email. There is no rush. Enjoy your holiday!
Ben

 

[firehorse5_0]

John, thanks for the very helpful information. Also thanks for the information on the proper oils to use!! One further queestion? Why is it so important to use non/low dertergent oils. Especialy if the existing trans sludge has been cleaned out?

 

[John (UK)]

The detergent in the oils is the problem, as it corrodes the soft metals used in the Transmission and Pump over a period of time and if it were left, the parts concerned would disintegrate if they hadn't worn out first, but it would certainly cause more clearance between the parts concerned. The original oil that was specified (GL1 type) contained no detergent at all, but now all oils contain some detergents and have better lubricating properties than previously, so it would be much better to take advantage of this and use an oil that better meets your local operating conditions regarding temperature which has always been a problem for us.The Multi-grade 10W/30 or 15W/30 oils (depending on your local low temperatures) have only minimal amounts of detergents if you use the oil for gas engines, you should NOT use the oil meant for Diesel engines as that contains a lot more detergent.
The GL1 type oil, would go very thick when cold and if you are in a very cold climate this is a serious problem as you just can't start the tractor and start work, you need to start the tractor and wait until the oil is thin enough to flow and be able to operate the hydraulics, quite often it was not possible to put the transmission into gear. The action of the Gearbox turning and the Pump running would warm the oil slightly to make it flow, in some areas you could only start the engine with the clutch pedal pressed down (which you should do anyway) and you would need to keep it there for quite some time, occasionally trying to lift your foot off the pedal to get the Pump and gearbox to turn or the engine would stall. With these Multi-grade oils there is no longer this problem. The people who complain that these Multi-grade oils are not what was recommended by the manufacturer and we should still be using GL1, are the ones who do not have any problems like this, if they had, they would know that to continue using it is not practical. John
[email protected]

 

[gregarpp]

I thought people were using 15w-40 Rotella oil?
Isn't this diesel oil?

(quoted from post at 05:05:19 12/31/10) The detergent in the oils is the problem, as it corrodes the soft metals used in the Transmission and Pump over a period of time and if it were left, the parts concerned would disintegrate if they hadn't worn out first, but it would certainly cause more clearance between the parts concerned. The original oil that was specified (GL1 type) contained no detergent at all, but now all oils contain some detergents and have better lubricating properties than previously, so it would be much better to take advantage of this and use an oil that better meets your local operating conditions regarding temperature which has always been a problem for us.The Multi-grade 10W/30 or 15W/30 oils (depending on your local low temperatures) have only minimal amounts of detergents if you use the oil for gas engines, you should NOT use the oil meant for Diesel engines as that contains a lot more detergent.
The GL1 type oil, would go very thick when cold and if you are in a very cold climate this is a serious problem as you just can't start the tractor and start work, you need to start the tractor and wait until the oil is thin enough to flow and be able to operate the hydraulics, quite often it was not possible to put the transmission into gear. The action of the Gearbox turning and the Pump running would warm the oil slightly to make it flow, in some areas you could only start the engine with the clutch pedal pressed down (which you should do anyway) and you would need to keep it there for quite some time, occasionally trying to lift your foot off the pedal to get the Pump and gearbox to turn or the engine would stall. With these Multi-grade oils there is no longer this problem. The people who complain that these Multi-grade oils are not what was recommended by the manufacturer and we should still be using GL1, are the ones who do not have any problems like this, if they had, they would know that to continue using it is not practical. John
[email protected]