AZ GARY

Member
I REWIRED THE IGNITION SWITCH ON THIS 560 DIESEL WITH A 3 LEGGED SWITCH NOT REALIZING THE ORIGINAL WAS 4. I CHECKED IT AND BOTH THE
AUX AND IGNITION WERE HOT WHEN THE KEY WAS ON. I THOUGHT I COULD PUT THOSE TWO TOGETHER AND MAKE THE SWITCH WORK. THE STARTER
SWITCH WORKED AS IT SHOULD. IT WOUULDN'T START AFTER BEING RUN SUNDAY, THE GLOW PLUGS WORKED AND IT IS 80 HERE TODAY. DURING TRYING
TO START IT AFTER CHARGING THE BATTERY THE SMALL WIRE FROM THE GROUND TO THE FUEL SENSOR ON TOP OF THE TANK GOT REAL HOT. DID I
MESS UP WITH THE SWITCH OR IS THIS A SEPARATE PROBLEM. THANKS FOR ANY HELP.
 
In the original configuration the ignition switch only had 2 terminals and in the on position fed power to the start button and fuel gauge circuit. The glow plugs were powered directly off the ammeter supply terminal so the button for them always has power key on or off. Does the switch you are installing also have a start circuit so you are doing away with the starter button? I would say you definitely have some problems with you fuel tank sender ground if it is getting hot. I would look for some wiring rubbed through possibly energizing the fuel tank. Is the tractor still running a generator or has an alternator been installed? If an alternator has been installed where does the main wire that goes to back terminal on it running? If equipped with an alternator I would suggest following that lead wire closely looking for runs or insulation cuts. Disconnect that ground and in fact both fuel gauge leads until you figure this out so you do not build heat on the sender inside the tank. I am attaching a stock wiring diagram, make sure you are looking at the correct one for a 560D.
IH 60 series wiring diagrams
 
There is nothing electrical that would prevent the tractor from running. There is no electrical cutoff solenoid, no "ignition" on a diesel.

The key only controls power to the starter button on that tractor. Whatever this "aux" wire is, is not standard. You need to figure out where it goes.
 

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