560 hydraulic filter

[Hayfarmer]

I bought a 560D a few years back, hydraulic filter hadn't been changed in years. I cleaned it up and have since changed oil 3 times and filters many more. I plug hydraulic filter and screen in 3 to 5 hours. Screen in bypass has brown residue that is not magnetic. Problem seems to be getting worse with more frequent plugging. I have tried different brands of filters IH, Baldwin from YT site, NAPA and doesn't seem to make a difference. Desperate for help on this, thanks in advance

 

[rustred]

and what is the hyd. cyl's like? and what is the tractor oil like? has to be gunk in there some place your not cleaning. changed oil 3 times?,... that pretty expensive at using over a barrel of oil and not finding the problem. have you raised the front wheels when draining the differential? i am sure its still got gunk in trans. and diff. case. plus did you flush it?

 

[Hayfarmer]

I have not flushed system. Particles seem to be from tractor as I wasn't using any implement yesterday. How is the best way to flush system?

 

[Hayfarmer]

I worked on transmissions on JD tractors, the oil was very cleaning in itself, I thought the 3 oil changes would have washed out most of the gunk.

 

[rustred]

I am sure curious as to what that oil u are draining out looks like. That is the perfect stuff for flushing. Go for a drive in high gear get her warmed up and drive onto a ramp with the front wheels about a foot high and pop the drain plug at back of differential. Can pull the belt pulley cover off if it has a cover or else need to remove belt pulley and get in trans. With a spray gun. But as I said I never heard of wasting a barrel of new oil on flushing a tractor 3 times. Something ur not telling here. For flushing settle out the old oil if it’s half azz clean and that’s your flushing oil. Or are u just letting what drains out at the filter housing??? Plus it’s not like the pump is picking oil off the bottom of trans housing either

 

[Hayfarmer]

Oil I have drained out looks really good. I did drain all 3 compartments. The last time I removed some sludge from ahead of rear plug. When I got it filter looked like baby diaper, guy I got it from said it didn't have hydraulic filter. Both pumps, regular and PS were worn out so I put pums in from a parts thractor, they looked about new. Does it do any good to put front end up and with oil drained spray diesel oil in housing and let it run out? As I said I thought the oil and filters would clean the buggers out. Oil that comes out of filter cover also looks pretty good, but apparently filter plugs then bypass screen. Oil doesn't show signs of water and tractor is under cover 99% of the time. I have soaked used filter in Kerosene and some brown particles come out, they look like rust but aren't magnetic. I appreciate your help.

 

[rustred]

diesel by itself dont do much for carrying junk out. you need at least half diesel and oil. it the viscosity that carry's the junk out. just spraying diesel in there just moves it around . and the other thing is if its heavy enough the filter wont pick it up anyhow. only things is if this tractor sat around the gears maybe rusted and thats what is plugging the filters. look through the gear shift hole and other cover and see if you can spot rust on the gears and shifters. lifting the front is about the only way to get junk out without a tear down.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

There must be a large deposit of this sludge somewhere in the cavity that the new oil and its fresh detergents is slowly loosening up.

There's no sense in replacing new oil that you just put in if it looks good when you drain it. Put it back in and quit wasting oil. The sludge is not in the oil, it's in the bottom of the differential housing, transmission housing and/or TA housing.

You may have to get more aggressive in your efforts than just "flushing" by pouring stuff in the top and letting it run out the bottom. You're going to need more access to the cavities and a more mechanical means of loosening the sludge.

There is an inspection cover over the TA housing. The belt pulley (or cover) can be removed to access the transmission. The PTO can be removed to access the differential housing.

 

[pete 23]

The sludge gathers above normal oil level like on sides of housings and under top platform of rear end. Difficult to get it all out and new oil gradually loosens it. Keep changing filters or disassemble the whole power train to clean. Not fun.

 

[RedRoundhead]

The attached picture is from the inside of my T3 40 when I received it, had the same problem you did.

Pull the PTO assembly out, get in there and get all that mold out of there. As stated below, it’s mold and it’s floating on top of the oil. When you drain the oil the oil’s coming out but the mold is not.

It took a lot of brake cleaner, and a fair amount of elbow grease to get it all out.

Once I clean the rear end, I’ve only had to change the filter once in the last five years. granted I don’t put them any hours on it, but it’s no longer clogging the filters with that icky brown stuff.

As a sidenote, I’ve run to 560s on my small farm, and I pretty much have to change the filters once a year. The casting sweat a lot up here, so a lot of moisture does condensate into the hy-Tran.