560 questions and assumptions

Good evening and welcome to my tirade of questions and assumptions. Feel free to correct my assumptions. I recently bought a farmall 560, it ran rough, I did plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotors, condenser, and I rebuilt the carb. It’s an oddball in the way that when I bout it, it had the correct head on it, but smaller spark plugs, like lawn mower size. I used a bore scope to look at the pistons and they were almost spotless. I was told it has a 706 manifold on it.
Assumption time: I would like to believe that with the pistons being so clean and a different head and manifold, that there was potential motor work done. I have it dialed in now and runs beautifully. I would also like to believe, maybe dream, someone bored it out to 706 specs. Is there a way to tell that without going to a dyno or taking the head off to check the pistons? It has over 8k hours on it according to the working tach. There was also a shoddy, albeit correct colors and what not,
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paint job on it and the tin is decently straight.
 
About the easiest way would be to fill a cylinder with oil while down then with plug still out run thepiston to the top and measure the volume then compare to what the engine of the same displacement would be as posed to what yours has then you would be in the close ball park. Other option would to use a wire or rod to put down to the piston when down then again when up and figure the stroke then do similar to measure bore and see what you get. I believe the displacement method would work better with less difficulty.
 
Hello TtF, welcome to YT! I will patronize you a bit on your “bored out to 706 specs” idea. The early 706 and the 560 used the same C-263 (ci) engine. The engine was just spun faster in the 706 to get more power 2300 rpm vs 1800 rpm in the 560. The later 706 had a C-291. The manifolds are the same. Someone just screwed those spark plugs in there. Any spark plug that fits the threads will fire a cylinder, whether it does it per design is another story. You look like you have a pretty nice tractor there, fast hitch and all. Surprised you’re not throwing the foo foo at the narrow front.
 
The way I read it was that the bore and sleeves were different. But in regards to the spark plugs, the plugs in it currently are j19lm I believe. The ones that belong are automate 3116s or champion d21s.
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The 560 and 706 gas were BOTH C263 engines, the later 756 gas has the C291 engine. The 560 and EARLY 706 DIESELS had the D282 engine, the LATE 706 diesel had the IH NEUSS German D310 engine like the 756 had.
 
Do a leak down test . Have some one show you , burrow one ,buy it, tells so much abut the condition of the engine with real data. Record data for maintenance project now or in future. What i prefer to use as a test.
Do you have a compression tester do that ? Record that data.
DON’T waste time and money on projects , have the data it needs correction.
 
The way I read it was that the bore and sleeves were different. But in regards to the spark plugs, the plugs in it currently are j19lm I believe. The ones that belong are automate 3116s or champion d21s. View attachment 110657
Okay I see what you mean, I think someone put a truck engine head on it. Not real sure maybe even the entire engine is from a truck. I am not enough of an expert to tell you if that can be done. What are the numbers stamped in the flat machined area by the oil filter? I can’t, but maybe someone else can tell you what you have by those numbers.
 
Just curious--are you having problems with it, or just trying to figure out what you have?
If everything is working OK, I wouldn't mess with it. The old, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."
But it's not my tractor.
 
How would one go about removing those?
You have to clean out the spark plug holes and get a much better picture up close for us to determine if you even have those. It really looks to me like that head is just machined to use small plugs “14 mm” plugs. My next step would be to go to rockauto and see if IH 60s/70s trucks/pickups 6 cylinders used 14mm plugs.
 
Just curious--are you having problems with it, or just trying to figure out what you have?
If everything is working OK, I wouldn't mess with it. The old, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."
But it's not my tractor.
Just trying to figure it out. It runs great now. It just bothers me having a different head on there is all. I have one I can try and salvage to swap it with
 
If it is running good as it why waste mmoney on head gaskets and all the work just over a head. Unless you are looking for every bit of HP you can get just use it. Besides those tractors had bearing problems in the rearends anyway so no need for every bit of HP. And unless you can be sure that somebody has actually done the roller bearing conversion there is only one way to tel and that is disassemble the rearend to see which it has. Since most are used for lighter duty work now days it is not a problem for the weekend plow day or garden patch work.
 
Just trying to figure it out. It runs great now. It just bothers me having a different head on there is all. I have one I can try and salvage to swap it with
The thing about the "706 manifold" is because it's a replacement manifold and really, it's a universal manifold that fits all IH Farmall tractors with 6-cylinder gas engines. It's even what IH provided once the 06 series came out. The ONLY difference between the "correct" 560 manifold and the aftermarket manifold is the size of the outlet, which is reduced with a pipe bushing. Many farmers opted to use the larger exhaust and muffler thinking it was a HP boost.

Frankly, having it "original" won't make it run any better or have any more power. In fact the head you have may be a better-flowing head than factory. My personal opinion is I prefer a tractor with unique features over one that's "factory perfect." This one's a "deep cut;" someone would have to look long and hard notice the different spark plugs. Heck I'd show it as-is and hand out prizes to anyone that figures it out.
 
Good evening and welcome to my tirade of questions and assumptions. Feel free to correct my assumptions. I recently bought a farmall 560, it ran rough, I did plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotors, condenser, and I rebuilt the carb. It’s an oddball in the way that when I bout it, it had the correct head on it, but smaller spark plugs, like lawn mower size. I used a bore scope to look at the pistons and they were almost spotless. I was told it has a 706 manifold on it.
Assumption time: I would like to believe that with the pistons being so clean and a different head and manifold, that there was potential motor work done. I have it dialed in now and runs beautifully. I would also like to believe, maybe dream, someone bored it out to 706 specs. Is there a way to tell that without going to a dyno or taking the head off to check the pistons? It has over 8k hours on it according to the working tach. There was also a shoddy, albeit correct colors and what not, View attachment 110621View attachment 110622View attachment 110623View attachment 110624View attachment 110625View attachment 110626View attachment 110627paint job on it and the tin is decently straight.

Good evening and welcome to my tirade of questions and assumptions. Feel free to correct my assumptions. I recently bought a farmall 560, it ran rough, I did plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotors, condenser, and I rebuilt the carb. It’s an oddball in the way that when I bout it, it had the correct head on it, but smaller spark plugs, like lawn mower size. I used a bore scope to look at the pistons and they were almost spotless. I was told it has a 706 manifold on it.
Assumption time: I would like to believe that with the pistons being so clean and a different head and manifold, that there was potential motor work done. I have it dialed in now and runs beautifully. I would also like to believe, maybe dream, someone bored it out to 706 specs. Is there a way to tell that without going to a dyno or taking the head off to check the pistons? It has over 8k hours on it according to the working tach. There was also a shoddy, albeit correct colors and what not, View attachment 110621View attachment 110622View attachment 110623View attachment 110624View attachment 110625View attachment 110626View attachment 110627paint job on it and the tin is decently straight.
It's POSSIBLE that someone installed 18mm to 14mm thread adapters in the head.

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Just trying to figure it out. It runs great now. It just bothers me having a different head on there is all. I have one I can try and salvage to swap it with
The 460,560,660 gas had a high dome piston and a large combustion head. This combination was only used on these three tractors. Your head is definitely not one so that means the Pistons would be different also. They could have changed the Pistons and the head or you have a completely different engine altogether. All other IH engines used a smaller combustion chamber head. I have seen the smaller spark plugs before and it was always on a piece of construction equipment like a road grader, roller or stationary engine. The engine was usually stamped UC-263. These were all in the mid to late 70s pieces of equipment. I don’t know if they changed to smaller spark plugs in the later year tractor engines. If you take the embossed number off the block and Google it, you may find your answer to what you have or pull the valve cover and get the number for just the head. Hope this may help you a little.
 
The 460,560,660 gas had a high dome piston and a large combustion head. This combination was only used on these three tractors. Your head is definitely not one so that means the Pistons would be different also. They could have changed the Pistons and the head or you have a completely different engine altogether. All other IH engines used a smaller combustion chamber head. I have seen the smaller spark plugs before and it was always on a piece of construction equipment like a road grader, roller or stationary engine. The engine was usually stamped UC-263. These were all in the mid to late 70s pieces of equipment. I don’t know if they changed to smaller spark plugs in the later year tractor engines. If you take the embossed number off the block and Google it, you may find your answer to what you have or pull the valve cover and get the number for just the head. Hope this may help you a little.
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This is the number on the block
 
View attachment 110791This is the number on the block
About 6 inches further back is a cast number. On my 560 gas it is 367511R2. That should be what you should have. If so, the head has been changed and the pistons have been changed and the block could’ve been bored out to a 706 or an 806. Nobody knows. I’m always curious enough I would probably pull the head off just so I know for sure but I’m crazy.😀 A dyno could give you a little more insight.
 
About 6 inches further back is a cast number. On my 560 gas it is 367511R2. That should be what you should have. If so, the head has been changed and the pistons have been changed and the block could’ve been bored out to a 706 or an 806. Nobody knows. I’m always curious enough I would probably pull the head off just so I know for sure but I’m crazy.😀 A dyno could give you a little more insight.
I just blew up your picture and I can see the number 3675— so I’m guessing you have a stock 560 block and the Pistons and head have been changed. You may have gotten more than you planned on.👍
 
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