5610 lift arm troubles

Hey guys I have a 5610 III that has lift arm trouble. They keep getting stuck in the up or down position due to some very small steel or alloy shavings sticking in an internal valve. Has been to the dealer 3 times but they say they don't know where the steel is coming from. Does anyone have access to the hydraulic schematic for the 5610, I was hoping to work backwards from the valve and try and find the culprit. Or any other ideas as to what may be causing the bits of steel to get into the hydraulic system? Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
You need to find another shop......

This is not rocket science. Either the brakes, the dual power, the FWD clutch or the PTO clutch are going to shreds... or a combination of all of the above. Brakes would be my first suspect, particularly if they are spongy. Running a pressure test on the low pressure hydraulic system and isolating those various clutch packs in the test will reveal a great deal about their condition. There may be a 1/8" NPT pipe plug in the low pressure manifold of the main pump. If not you remove the line to the dual power and tee into it on the bottom of the pump. With the oil warmed up, that system should hold 160-180 psi but if it had 140-150 I probably would not get too excited. What you really need to watch is discrepencies in pressure as you shift those various clutches. After a couple of seconds it should always rise to the same initial pressure. If it doesn't that indicates a leak. If a leak is found, and it's been run that way any length of time, that is likely where the foreign material is coming from. If the pressures all come up good, I would probably pull the axles and go at the brakes first. That is the most likely wear point, especially on a high hour tractor.

Rod
 
Thanks Rod, much appreciated. I just have one question, for the bits of steel to get into the lift arm hydraulic system would they have first gone through the pump? I thought the pump had a suction filter so this wouldn't happen?
 
Yes, the system has suction filters... but strange things happen when parts start going to hell. If you actually have large chunks of
aluminum in the valve, that would be a pump going to pieces... but if you have fine grit on the drain plugs that looks like antiseize... you
likely have brakes failing. That grit will to some degree pass the filters. The system just gets loaded with crap. It's a bear to clean out.
You have a lot of misery in your future... It's not unrealistic to say that after you find and fix the problem, you will do 10 oil dumps and
20 filter changes before it starts looking clean again and acting somewhat normally. It will probably also destroy both pumps in the
process...

Rod
 
Before I did 10 oil dumps and 20 filter changes, I'd remove the RH final drive and differential and clean out the case with a rag! That would take care of all of the rear section. With the pump out you can get most of the front.
 
That was after cleaning out everything that could be reached in the axle sections with both reduction gears removed... and washing it down. The transmission will have a pile too. Mine was absolutely putrid. I may be exagerating a bit on the oil dumps but it took quite a few and a lot of filters.
That was when I started running Walmart oil... because it was cheap and disposable.

Rod
 
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