584 help

[Daniel Burks]

I recently bought a 584 to help keep my place clean and to work the garden. It's had a rough life by the previous owner. None of the gauges or lights work.
1. I replaced the tach cable and spun the tach with a drill to verify that it works. With the tractor running it won't go above 1k rpm and gets jumpy when it gets that high. I've read that the 90* adapter on the front the motor has plastic gears. Could that be the cause of my issues?
2. I cannot get the lights to work. I have voltage at the switch but cannot get any leaving. I have replaced the switch. I can bridge across the plug and the lights all work. Should the body of the switch be grounded somewhere.
Thanks for any help!

 

[wwoodrow]

I recently bought a 584 to help keep my place clean and to work the garden. It's had a rough life by the previous owner. None of the gauges or lights work.
1. I replaced the tach cable and spun the tach with a drill to verify that it works. With the tractor running it won't go above 1k rpm and gets jumpy when it gets that high. I've read that the 90* adapter on the front the motor has plastic gears. Could that be the cause of my issues?
2. I cannot get the lights to work. I have voltage at the switch but cannot get any leaving. I have replaced the switch. I can bridge across the plug and the lights all work. Should the body of the switch be grounded somewhere.
Thanks for any help!

I cannot keep my lights burning on my 584 either. There is a small fuse box inside the battery compartment. It is at the top, closest to the steering wheel. You may check on that to see if a fuse it burned out.

 

[Daniel Burks]

All fuses are good. I did start there. I can make them work with aftermarket switches but I would like to keep it original if possible

 

[flying belgian]

I recently bought a 584 to help keep my place clean and to work the garden. It's had a rough life by the previous owner. None of the gauges or lights work.
1. I replaced the tach cable and spun the tach with a drill to verify that it works. With the tractor running it won't go above 1k rpm and gets jumpy when it gets that high. I've read that the 90* adapter on the front the motor has plastic gears. Could that be the cause of my issues?
2. I cannot get the lights to work. I have voltage at the switch but cannot get any leaving. I have replaced the switch. I can bridge across the plug and the lights all work. Should the body of the switch be grounded somewhere.
Thanks for any help!

I can't speak to a 584 but on my JD I had a couple teeth missing on the plastic tach. I built them up with epoxy glue and filed them into shape. That worked for thousands of hours until I got rid of it.

 

[tomtinker]

I recently bought a 584 to help keep my place clean and to work the garden. It's had a rough life by the previous owner. None of the gauges or lights work.
1. I replaced the tach cable and spun the tach with a drill to verify that it works. With the tractor running it won't go above 1k rpm and gets jumpy when it gets that high. I've read that the 90* adapter on the front the motor has plastic gears. Could that be the cause of my issues?
2. I cannot get the lights to work. I have voltage at the switch but cannot get any leaving. I have replaced the switch. I can bridge across the plug and the lights all work. Should the body of the switch be grounded somewhere.
Thanks for any help!

You apparently replaced a bad switch with another bad switch.

 

[used red MN]

In this link to an older YT post the wiring diagram is shown. Previous YT post on IH 584 wiring
The fuse box is 22 shown at the top. The circuit labeled P carries power to the light switch 21 shown right below it. I am not sure if this diagram is clear enough for you to get the locations of the spades on the switch and where they are supposed to plug in. This is obviously for the purpose of determining if the wiring is connected to the switch properly. Do the wires connect to the switch in a plug or are they separate? I had a link saved to the wiring diagram from the same source as the one provided in that thread by member RBoots (Have fun). It also does not link to the proper location same as his. I recently made a reply in another thread about this and a member chimed in saying that reconfiguration of the website was under way to make the diagrams available again but that doesn’t help you now. Also the ground to the switch is not your problem it would serve no purpose in proper function of the switch. Just as an example if you look at items 44 & 45 at the lower right of the diagram they are work lights. The circuits on the right of them are showing them connecting to a local ground as does any lamp you find in the diagram powered from the switch. This tells you that the light switch is only associated with opening and closing the power side of the light circuits.
Sorry I can’t help you with your tach problem.

 

[rustred]

I recently bought a 584 to help keep my place clean and to work the garden. It's had a rough life by the previous owner. None of the gauges or lights work.
1. I replaced the tach cable and spun the tach with a drill to verify that it works. With the tractor running it won't go above 1k rpm and gets jumpy when it gets that high. I've read that the 90* adapter on the front the motor has plastic gears. Could that be the cause of my issues?
2. I cannot get the lights to work. I have voltage at the switch but cannot get any leaving. I have replaced the switch. I can bridge across the plug and the lights all work. Should the body of the switch be grounded somewhere.
Thanks for any help!

I can’t can’t say on the plastic gears on a 584 , but the gears on the 60 series engines are metal and they wear out causing the tach to jump around and then not move. I can’t see plastic gears 90 degrees to each other lasting long. Pull that adapter out snd have a look at it. I’m sure I will see the gears worn out.

 

[Daniel Burks]

tomtinker, I thought about that but hate to just keep ordering parts.

used red, thanks, I'll look at that diagram and see what I can find. All the wires are in a plug, I did find a couple that did not make a good connection due to the plug being worn/loose. If I pull the wires out of the plug, I can get a solid ohm to the lights and can get good voltage with a pigtail.

rust, I did remove the fitting from the front of the motor. I don't see anything obviously wrong but I'm honestly not sure what I'm looking at. I did clean a lot of crud out but don't see a way to disassemble it without destroying it

 

[flying belgian]

tomtinker, I thought about that but hate to just keep ordering parts.

used red, thanks, I'll look at that diagram and see what I can find. All the wires are in a plug, I did find a couple that did not make a good connection due to the plug being worn/loose. If I pull the wires out of the plug, I can get a solid ohm to the lights and can get good voltage with a pigtail.

rust, I did remove the fitting from the front of the motor. I don't see anything obviously wrong but I'm honestly not sure what I'm looking at. I did clean a lot of crud out but don't see a way to disassemble it without destroying it

My plastic gears were in the tach head. I had to peel the metal ring open around the glass to get at it. Once I had it open I set the hour metor back to zero. I caught a lot of flack from people on here for doing that. My tractor, I'll do what I want.

When I sold the tractor I told the buyer...those are not original hours.

 

[Daniel Burks]

Ok, that makes sense. I’ll look into that.

 

[JimB2]

If your tach works using your drill on the tach cable, the tach should be good.
The usual problem is the drive gear mechanism that screws into the timing cover on the front of the engine.
This is a bevelled gear drive and there is a nylon washer/shim that maintains the alignment of the mating gears and as the washer/shim wears the gears loose mesh and stop turning the tach cable. The nylon washers/shims are behind the end covers on this drive mechanism. On some I have used a dremel tool to grind away the lip holding the plug in, remove the plug and replace the nylon with a stainless steel washer(s) of proper thickness to make the gears mesh again and then replace the plug and use an expoy/super glue/jb weld to hold plug in place.

Re Lights, does your 584 only have the rotary light switch on the dash or does it have the later model with the toggle switch and flasher unit?
My brother has an early model 684 with rotary switch on dash, if I remember correctly, position 1-side-tail-dash lights, 2-side-tail-dash lights-Low Beam, 3-side-tail-dash lights-High Beam. Your 584 may be different if the serial number plate says "Made in USA" as these were crate units shipped from IH Doncaster plant in a crate to IH Louisville plant for final assembly where the power train and engine were the same but wheels, Delco electric system, power steering were all common parts with IH 504 tractors.
But if you put 12V on the wires at the Light Switch and the lights work, that would indicate the switch is not correctly wired for the 584 or the +12V wire from the fuse is not connected to the proper pin on the light switch. Does the new light switch have any terminal markings?
The largest connector pin is usually where the +12V from the fuse connects. If you have a VOM with nothing connected to the switch you can determine the internal wiring by using the OHM buzzer setting and rotating the switch and finding the common battery voltage terminal and the corresponding light terminal as you rotate the switch.

 

[Daniel Burks]

That is the piece I was talking about. I believe that is my problem. I cannot find it in the parts catalog that I have. Do you happen to know the proper name for it?
It is an early model with the rotary switch only. The switch is not labeled at all and a couple of the wires are loose in the back. Possibly they fell out and someone put them back in the wrong location. The caution lights have worked a few times(but not everytime) as I've played with it.

 

[Daniel Burks]

Is this the correct part?

https://www.external_link/IHS6071-Tachometer-Drive-Unit

 

[flying belgian]

That is the piece I was talking about. I believe that is my problem. I cannot find it in the parts catalog that I have. Do you happen to know the proper name for it?
It is an early model with the rotary switch only. The switch is not labeled at all and a couple of the wires are loose in the back. Possibly they fell out and someone put them back in the wrong location. The caution lights have worked a few times(but not everytime) as I've played with it.

Lights sound like you have a loose ground.

 

[Daniel Burks]

Is there a ground going to the switch?

 

[used red MN]

Lights sound like you have a loose ground.

Is there a ground going to the switch?

He is just proposing that you have a ground problem. Often on here when electrical issues are the topic this is a “general” common recommendation and suggestions to clean and check ground connections are made. Grounds can be an issue in some cases, but if you jump power across the terminals at your switch plug and the lights operate properly the grounds are not your problem. It sounds like the poor connection at the switch is your problem. Post some photos of the problem terminals.

 

[JimB2]

Is this the correct part?

https://www.external_link/IHS6071-Tachometer-Drive-Unit

From Caseih.com Shop Parts
When shopping for parts for your 584 use the MODEL tab and Search for Model Name enter 584 and choose 584 North America
If it is anything to do with the engine then Model Name is D-206

Re Grounds, the Ground for the headlights is a single wire up front by the head lights, I can't remember if it is attached to the sheet metal by the head lights or if it is attached to the front bolster, on the rear the grounds are attached to the deck plate mounting bolt on the right rear just in front of the fuel tank, the fuel tank gauge sender unit ground is also on same bolt. Again your 584 may be slightly different if it was assembled in IH Louisville, KY, USA plant.

PS, always google the CIH part number to see the best source for your area. I know this website sells the

3055982R93 Angle Drive assembly.​

 

[Daniel Burks]

 

[Daniel Burks]

 

[Daniel Burks]

You can see in the second picture, the bottom center wire is not all the way in. I make it a point to push it in by hand.
The bottom right is the constant hot.