6 volt generator

[otherhalf]

Hi all. I had to put a different 6 volt generator on my 1953 cub. It shows a good charge, but when checking across the battery, it reads 8-9.4 volts. Is this too much voltage for my battery? Thanks, Bill

 

[John T]

Thats high IFFFFF it stays there a long time, the battery can boil out acid and/or overcharge and eventualy be ruined. Id expect numbers more like 6.5 to 7.5 on a GOOD battery IFFFFFFFF the battery is okay??????

If it has a cutout relay and the LHBD light switch charge control I wonder if its working or mis wired or theres a short to the gennys FLD post??? Even though, in the HIGH charge the gennys FLD should be dead grounded anyway...

If it has an adjustable third brush ???????? Those can be adjusted to lower the rate of charge, ay idea if it has that and where its adjusted??????????????

See if the battery voltage reads around 6.3 setting (to check meters accuracy) and how long it stays at those too high numbers when shes running????????

If its a 3 brush genny with the LHBD light switch charge control and the batetry checks out okay YET THE VOLTAGE STAYSSSSSS THAT HIGH Id be looking into if its a 3 brush genny and if so Id adjust it down. Whats it do on the LOW charge setting??????

If it has a Voltage Regulator it could be a problem like its field current control relay is stuck in the high charge !!!!!!!!!!!

Sure the new genny is a 6 volt not a 12??????????????????????????????????


John T

 

[Roy Ward]

If you have a good charged battery it better cut back or you will smoke the battery. John T is right on 6.5 to 7+ is max. You can adjust the regulator if it has one. Just bend the tab where the spring is connected and this will ease the pressure on the charging contacts. The other thing is if the genny has a third brush the brush assembly can be adjusted by rotating the assembly. It sound to me like the genny is set up for an 8 volt battery.

 

[otherhalf]

I bought the generator as a 6 volt. The guy changed to 12 volt. I don't know how to tell if it is a 12 volt, but it is model 100501. serial 3017. The one I took off is a model 100501, serial 2M29. I put a different voltage regulator on and got the same readings. After running a couple minutes, with the tractor off, the battery read 6.4 volts. I have a feeling the 3rd brush has been shifted.

 

[otherhalf]

I don't know how to adjust it back. Thanks for all the help, Bill

 

[Jim Becker]

I'll start with as couple guesses:
- Generators part numbers are 1100501.
- Date code on the replacement is 3D17, not 3017 (doesn't matter anyway).

1100501 is the original part number for a '53 Cub. It is a system with a full voltage regulator, not just a cut-out and a 3-brush generator. The regulator should limit the voltage produced by the generator. As John T said, this symptom suggests a regulator with a sticking field relay. Since you tried 2 different regulators, it is less likely a regulator problem.

I suggest you try removing the wire from the generator "F" terminal and repeat your voltage tests. If it still produces too high voltage, you probably have a short inside the generator that is grounding the "F" terminal. The fix would be inside the generator but probably pretty easy. If there is no generator output with the field disconnected, the problem comes back to the regulator. Maybe it is improperly mounted causing a direct ground of the field circuit.

Your third brush position is unlikely to be the problem. I wouldn't mess with that until you get the voltage under control and see if you have a high current problem.

 

[otherhalf]

I unhooked the field as Jim suggested, still got high readings, 7.9 volts to 8.3. I took the gen off and the field wire covering is off, wire against the gen body. It is also off on the wire on the field post. I am trying to wrap. Thanks for all the help. This is a great site. Bill

 

[Bob M]

Bill -

Jim Becker's advice below is right on EXCEPT the 3rd brush is non-adjustable on the Delco 1100501 generator.

My '53 Super H has that generator - its 3rd brush cannot be adjusted. (System current and voltage control is performed entirely by the regulator.)

 

[otherhalf]

I wondered how to adjust it after I took it off. Thanks. I insulated the field wires, put it back on, now shows a discharge same as the other one. I don't want to put an altenator on so will have to figure this out. Bill

 

[John T]

When all else fails, refer to my Non Charging Troubleshooting Procedure n give it a shot...

John T
Troubleshooting Procedure

 

[Bob M]

Bill - Run the engine at 1/2 throttle or faster and ground the generator "F" terminal. If the ammeter now indicates charge the problem's in the VR or the connecting wiring.

However if it doesn't charge with the "F" grounded there's an open circuit in the field wiring somewhere inside the genny. Bob M

 

[otherhalf]

Ok John, I ran the motor test. That was with the field disconnected from the VR, right? I grounded the field to the case and put juice to the ARM post. The generator ran, I unhooked the ground and it didn't run. What does that tell me? Thanks, Billr

 

[otherhalf]

I also ran a continuity test between the gen A post and the F post and showed a circuit. This was with no wire on the F post. This isn't right is it?

 

[John T]

For the Motor test, the gennys CASE is always grounded, but if on a tractor that should already obviously be present. Then you ground the FLD post to case and apply hot voltage to the ARM terminal (belt off of couse) n she ought to spin smooth n even (tells me the armature and brushes are likely okay) BUT THEN if you unground the FLD she should spin noticeably faster (tells me Fields are probably good). If it passes BOTH she ought to charge. If ungrounding the Field dont make the speed change, I suspect a Field winding problem.

She wont do nothing unless the gennys case is frame grounded.......

John T

 

[John T]

If the gennys is all together, theres low ohms contiunity about anywhere cuz the ARM post goes to a brush, then theres a circuit through an armature winding, then the other brush is case grounded. The FLD winding begins at the ARM post to that brush (maybe goes through the armature to a third brush) and then through both fields and terminates out to the external FLD post.

Its possible to check the fields continuity and ohms separately but if the armatures in place about all is wired together somewhere per the above.....

Go through the Troubleshooting and it will tell if non charging is a Genny versus a VR or light switch problem.

John T