60 Pully Race Question

I am debating on replacing the pully bearing behind the clutches on a 60. The outer race and rollers are the originals. My question is how hard is it to pull the innter race off the crankshaft? Will just a regular bearing puller work or is heat needed? Pully is off the tractor of course and the bearing is out of the pully. The inner race remains on the crankshaft.
 
A sharp cold chisel driven down into where it meets the crank should get it started off of there,then you can finish with a regular punch from side to side. Now if someone had to loctite it on there ? then heat will be needed.
 
Thanks Mike, Im still investigating my tight engine subject too. Seller of the parts tells me its normal to be tight and the rings need not be gapped. Maybe Im just getting weak as I grow older. It will spin, but with effort through a crowbar in the flywheel for leverage.
 
Fred, a lot has been said about your tight engine. in my adventures i have observed that your problem is TIGHT rod journals. my $0.02 worth. Kelly.
 
If you are strong enough to torque the rod bolts properly, you should be able to turn it with the flywheel without using a bar. Loosen the bearings & see if it makes a difference. Did you get the caps mixed up?
 
Sounds to me like your "tight engine" is normal. After it runs a bit it will loosen up. I have overhauled a lot of them and those rings really bite the cyl. walls and hold on . Run it.
 
Howdy Fred, well i have been lurking on this web site for many years, but i just got to comment on your tight engine, did you physicaly check your bearing clearances with mic & snap gauges, main bearing clearance should be .004 to .006, and .0015 to .004 on rods, even if it came from the shinist looking all new and pretty i hate to see you lock up the engine. i don't like plastic gauge on the bearings because it puts distortion on the lead tin overlay of the bearings. sometimes there is to much crush on rod bearings and it will buckle the bearing at the rod halves and push it tight agaisnt the crank journals, the only way to check rod clearance is to torque the bolts to 50ft.lb between to pieces of 3/8'' plate steel in the vise, and check for-out-of- round of the inside diameter of of the bearing surface, also check taper of bearing surface, by doing this you put the "crush" on the bearings to seat them in the rod bore. and then measure them. never pastic gauge an un-crushed bearing, always establish bearing crush first(to late for that i guess) even if you have to take engine apart again i think it might be in your best interest to do so, you should be able to turn engine over with a 14 inch pipe wrench on crank splines without the flywheel. piston cleanrance, of .0015 per diameter inch is good advice. another thing what was the final grit stone used to hone the the cylinders to??
just remember if you fire the engine with out being sure, and you start to smelling aluminun, and blowing white smoke out the crankcase vent, it is too late, sorry for the book guys, but i could go on some more but you should get the jist of this because parts are expensive and doing it twice is even more!
 
If my memory hasn't comletely failed me the oil film itself is .003 so it is essentially locked down. Ain't my engine but ???
 
Well if I can with a 14 inch pipe wrench, then I should be in good shape. Im using a 20 inch crow bar on the flyween and I can get it to spin. I understand what your saying, but I am limited to plastigage at this point. So far everything adds up that it is built correctly except for the amount of resistance I am getting. I don't have a "feel" for a 2 big piston engine resistance yet in my experience. Thanks for your comments.
 
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