6000 turbo kit

Bern

Well-known Member
Location
Mount Vernon, WA
I had been looking for a M&W turbo kit for my 6000 for some time now, not for increased power but rather to clean up the
smoke levels at full load. Thanks to my friend Harry from Nebraska (a member of this board), I was able to get my hands on
one due to his persistent scouring of numerous wrecking yards for me.

I disassembled the turbo to put some new seals and gaskets inside of it, but otherwise it was in good condition. I installed
it on the tractor and then put it on the dyno and gained 5 more HP over stock (from 65 to 70) without turning up the fuel
pump. The instructions for the kit advertised a max power of 85HP if you turn up the fuel pump, but there's no way I'm
pushing that engine that hard. The 6000 engine is nothing more than a 1950s-era gasoline motor converted over to diesel, and
the last thing I want to see is a connecting rod poking out the side of the block.

On the dyno it was running 6PSI of boost at full load at 70HP, which is just fine by me. All I want to do is get a little
more oxygen into the cylinders to burn more of the fuel that is going in. That engine was never designed to breathe well,
but it does much better now. Overall I'm very happy with the way it all turned out.

Here are some descriptions for the 5 pictures below (in order):

1) This is what the exhaust stream looked like at full load BEFORE the installation of the turbo. While I'm no tree hugger,
I don't need real ones getting in my face. Actually, I was more concerned about some of that soot working its way into the
crankcase and turning the oil black in a hurry. Now at full load you can't see a visible trail at all. Which makes me
environmentally conscious I guess. It has to be getting better fuel economy now as well. Talk about a win-win!

2) Here's a side-by-side of the before and after turbo install. I had to move the fuel tank back about 4 inches to make room
for the turbo.

3) This is a top-view of the turbo with the hood removed. The clearance under the hood is very tight, I had to position the
tubes just so to keep them from rubbing on the hood or each other.

4) Because the fuel tank had to be moved back, the instructions said to cut a new hole in the hood to allow for fuel filler
neck access. Since I didn't want to butcher the hood, I decided to butcher the tank instead. 2 packages of JB Weld were
used, one under the adapter plate, and one surrounding the perimeter of the adapter plate.

5) I was able to get a copy of the original M&W kit instructions from a guy who is re-producing M&W kits for more popular
tractors such as 4020 JDs and 806 Internationals (link below). Currently there are no kits available for any Fords, however
if some of you start asking, maybe he'll make up a kit for the 5000.
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M&W turbo kits
 
Nice job Bern! The Ford 6000 I put together for tractor rides has a small Garret turbo from an AC 6080 which has a 200 cube diesel. My goal was to have boost come on at a lower engine speed as I never run it above 1800 RPM anyway. I can't get a PTO dyno reading as the PTO clutch slips at 40-45 HP reading. I suspect serious trouble beginning in the SOS as last time trans oil was changed there was a needle bearing roller in the drain bucket.
 
Any pics you can share of your turbo install?

With regards to the PTO clutch slipping, if it's due to low system pressure then some or all of the gears should be slipping as well. A lot of times PTO issues are simply due to cable misadjustment - it's not a job for the novice, or for someone who can't follow the directions closely. Make sure the handle travels at least 1-3/8 inches from full in to full out. If it doesn't, you definitely have an adjustment issue.
 
Bern,
Nice looking tractor. A lot of work went into that detail. I'm curious... is there an air to air on there too or just how the hoses are routed around and over the rad?

Rod
 
Here's an old photo, need to look close for the turbo mounted on manifold end. PTO handle travels 1 1/2 inch, the needle bearing roller that dropped into the drain bucket is not a good sign either.
cvphoto128712.jpg
 
No air to air, even though there's plenty of room for one if I wished to add it. However I don't see the need with only 6PSI of boost, which the tractor will rarely ever see anyways. It's going to enjoy a relatively easy life in its final years. A part of me only wanted the turbo for the novelty of it, although smoke reduction was still the primary reason.

The two pipes are fresh air inlet from the air cleaner, and boost air out to the manifold.
 
Ah yes, I remember that machine now. You cheated by not putting the turbo under the hood. But then, it's not really a tractor anymore either.

BTW, I hope I didn't imply that you didn't know how to adjust the PTO cable. I simply meant that maybe the person who had it before you misadjusted it. I should have been more clear.

And indeed, a needle roller coming out of the drain plug is not a good thing. I don't think I've ever seen something like that on a SOS trans. You may wish to consider going after it before something explodes in a big way.
 
Thanks, Bern. Last fall this tractor made a 1160 mile round trip from western Wisconsin to cross the Mackinac Bridge and back with four other friends. It got 26.5 MPG on the first tank, driving average speed of 19 MPH. I do have another 6000 trans that needs an input shaft that might get installed some day. That bearing loose needle has me nervous.
 
I remember when they came out and to this day I believe they are the prettiest tractor ever.
Ron
 
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